On Fri, 30 Apr 2010 03:30:50 -0700 (PDT), HaHaHaHa wrote:
Hi,
I have change video card in my mac to NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GT. I discover that images opened in a Photoshop looks bit darker than before.
When I turn OFF Color Matching in Preferences> GPU Settings > Advanced Settings >
every things look perfect ( I use Eizo CG monitor ) in every application – colors/gamma are the same in Safari, Photoshop, mail, ect.
But now I am unable to proof colors (⌘+Y)!!!
Do I have to disable whole GPU for photoshop – to use color proofing?
This is a common experience. The standard solution, and the conventional wisdom, is to purchase a calibration device – I generally recommend something like the i1 Color display or Spyder Pro. Avoid the Huey. But be careful – you can spend quite a bit of money on calibration, but do your homework first.
Here are several scenarios that may help get a handle on your situation. Scenario 4 has a few words about soft proofing.
Scenario 1: You say that you are happy with the color when you disable color management. This tells me that your images, whether they be from your camera, or other source, are a good match for your monitor. Why should you change anything at all? If your prints are a reasonably good match for what you see on your monitor, then I would have to recommend that you turn off color management, and consider your problem solved and move on to more interesting questions of creating and presenting your images. If your monitor offers an sRGB adjustment, rely on the fact that Eizo is one of the best monitor manufacturers in the world, and their calibration gear costs more than most people’s first divorce :-).
Scenario 2: your images look good on the screen, but do not match your printer. Solution – use the printer color adjustments to make your printer match, *reasonably* closely, what you see on the screen.
Scenario 3: your images look good on the screen, the printouts do not match, and you do not want to do a manual adjustment. Turn on color management Then set your monitor to sRGB (either using Eizo’s settings, or using a calibration device), and then set your printer to the default settings, or sRGB if that is available. If your display and prints match pretty well, consider your job done. Do not hesitate to use manual adjustments to either your display and printer, after you calibrate.
Scenario 4: your screen is good, but your prints do not match, or you would like an accurate printer profile for soft proofing. First, try one of the manufacturers canned profiles for your paper/printer/ink combination. If that is not satisfactory, go to one of the sites, such as www.cathysprofiles.com, and have them do a profile for your printer for about 50 bucks.
Re soft proofing: this is a great idea that really, IMHO, hasn’t panned out the way it should. The idea of soft proofing is a good one: use a larger gamut device, such as your excellent Eizo monitor, to simulate a smaller gamut device, such as a printer. There are two reasons this doesn’t work very well. The first is that certail pure printer colors, such as bright and/or saturated magenta and yellow, cannot be accurately displayed on a monitor. So, do not rely on soft proofing for judgements about these particular colors. The second problem is that accurately simulating paper white results in a bad looking image with poor contrast and an overall drab look. This may be dealt with, to some extent, by hiding all of Photoshop’s non-image information, including palettes and cursor, and allowing some time for the eye to adjust to the image.
If you are interested in calibration for its own sake (as am I) or have more money than sense (which also describes me in some situations), get a Color Munki, which will do a number of interesting things besides accurately calibrating your monitor. Please be aware that you can spend a lot of money on calibration, and end up with not much more than a knowledge of the shortcomings of calibration. There is no such thing as a perfect, or even near perfect monitor or printer, when it comes to color. In general, it is better to spend your money wisely, as you have done, on basic good equipment, rather than on devices to calibrate that equipment.
AFAIK, OpenGL is a lower level software interface, and has nothing to do with Photoshop’s color performance.
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All the best,
Mike Russell – www.curvemeister.com