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I have just taken delivery of an Epson R1900 Photo printer (Staples had a "Deal" on them that was simply too good to be missed). It is probably because there is a new model in the pipeline, but, for for the little that I paid, who cares!
It needs to be stated that the R1900 is for printing Photographs and you will probably need another printer in addition to it for output from Vector programs such as Illustrator. (I still have my trusty Epson 1270 for that.)
I am printing 16-bit ProPhoto RGB images through Photoshop CS4 (with Photoshop managing colors using the down-loadable Epson Premium profiles) and the smoothness of tones, lack of banding and incredible image detail in the results are outstanding.
Unfortunately it is only CS4 on a Mac that lets you print at 16 bits that technology is not available to Windows-users at this time but if you have CS4 on a Mac and a printer like the R1900, do try printing ProPhoto RGB with 16-bits.
I have my monitor (which is a wide-spectrum NEC 2690) calibrated for 130 cd/m2 and the output from the printer is a dead-ringer with the rendering in Photoshop’s soft proofing using the Premium paper profiles.
I lost this thread again. Guess there must have been more problems and it had to be closed again. Thanks Buko for starting it back up.
I have a new question concerning Apple TV. When ever we are using my husband’s MacBook Pro, if we use the remote on the Apple TV, whatever happens on the TV takes over what happens on the laptop. I’ve been over and over the settings but I can’t get it to stop.
Does anyone know what is going on and what to do to stop it?
I set up Time Capsule for the first time today. It began backing up everything on the laptop. I left the laptop for a while and when I came back it had gone to sleep. I then wasn’t sure if the backup was frozen or still working so I cancelled it. It wouldn’t cancel so I force quit. I then decided to erase the disk because I didn’t want all the user files included in the back up. I made the mistake of writing to zeros. At this point it took forever and again I force quit. I thought it had frozen. Now the Time Capsule disk will not show up on at all when I attempt to set it up. There is an orange light blinking.
I’m at the Apple Website trying to find answers. I thought I’d post just in case it helps speed up the answer. In the meantime I’m still researching.
I would start again from the beginning (possibly with a new user’s account) and re-install the software from scratch from the original CDs for both Airport and for Time Machine.
I would start again from the beginning (possibly with a new user’s account) and re-install the software from scratch from the original CDs for both Airport and for Time Machine.
I had installed the software from the disk that came with Time Capsule which seemed to include Airport Utilities. I’ll create a new user folder and start over.
A little progress on Time Capsule – I hooked it up to my G5 using an Ethernet cable. I then used the reset button as suggested in the Apple link Ann provided. I was able to connect to the disk and erase it again.
Looks like this thread will be popping again. Lot’s going on here.
Ann was the first to hear the news that my husband’s MBP is now mine. After working with it since Christmas he also had lots of problems (must run in the family). I was helping him, and thought it must have been because he’s been away from the Mac for so long. He finally got fed up and told me he would rather I take it and he will get a PC that will work better with his business related network.
I know this sounds like a good thing for me, and I’m sure I will feel that way eventually… but honestly I didn’t need a laptop. My older G4 Powerbook is really solid and everything I need for a laptop. If I were putting the money into something for myself I would have bought an iMac.
That said, I plan to make good use of the newly acquired MBP, and at least attempt to do with it what I planned to do with an iMac. Use it as a backup computer for client jobs while I do a complete wipe and reinstall on my G5. Also will attempt to use the MBP with the TV for showing client photos.
Now, here’s the thing. After using my husband’s MBP for one day I see that it really does have issues. It often won’t log out and in, and it often won’t restart without turning it off and on. Other glitches as well, but could be user related.
So… I am wiping the MBP clean and reinstalling all software first thing. This is something i would prefer to do anyway, and usually do when I buy a new computer.
Just reset the password on Time Capsule. It was working. I then shut down and rebooted. Now the password is not working on that either. I wonder what is going on with these passwords. Is it possible that someone is hacking my wireless network?
I can use an external FWD when I’m at my desk, but not when I take the laptop elsewhere. Is there any advantage to having a little scratch space set aside on the same drive?
I also read somewhere that some users partition their drive for Time Capsule files. This sounds like a possible way to speed up backups.
A partition for Photoshop scratch on your boot drive doesn’t help at all and will actually just slow you down because each drive has only one set of heads and they can’t read/write to two different partitions at the same time.
Also that Drive is pretty small and I don’t think you would want to fill it with Time Capsule files.
A partition for Photoshop scratch on your boot drive doesn’t help at all and will actually just slow you down because each drive has only one set of heads and they can’t read/write to two different partitions at the same time.
Oh well. Maybe I should repartition then.
Also that Drive is pretty small and I don’t think you would want to fill it with Time Capsule files.
Maybe I should clarify – This is the partition I would store files which would be backed up to the Time Capsule. I read that others do this to keep backup files separate from system and application files.
I cannot figure out why Airport works on my old laptop with the same password I’ve had since I bought it, but on the new setup it rejects my password. This one problem has taken up a good part of my day today and yesterday trying to resolve it. Even after reinstalling the OS on the new MBP Airport rejects my password.
This is the partition I would store files which would be backed up to the Time Capsule. I read that others do this to keep backup files separate from system and application files.>
I don’t see the point in doing that because if the drive does go bad, you won’t be able to get to EITHER partition anyway!
If you want to Back-up, burn the files to a DVD or to a small portable external HD.
So much for testing websites with Windows then. This laptop will probably not serve my purposes. I may try to sell it, unless Apple will allow me to turn it in for something else, which I doubt. I’m disappointed that my husband couldn’t use it but I don’t fault him for it. It’s just one of those things.
If you are serious about such a software question that has been discussed ad nauseam you should probably start another thread rather than adding it here on this hardware thread.
If you are serious about such a software question that has been discussed ad nauseam you should probably start another thread rather than adding it here on this hardware thread.
Never mind. Point taken. This is what I’ve heard so I’ll just go on my own research. Sorry for my endless questions and messing up this thread.
If you want to test Web sites from a Windows machine in the way that the average viewer, with a non-color managed browser on a non-calibrated screen, might see them; all that you need is the cheapest box from Costco!
Regarding CS3 on Leopard: Snow Leopard is due within the next few weeks; and you have CS4 anyway.
If you want to test Web sites from a Windows machine in the way that the average viewer, with a non-color managed browser on a non-calibrated screen, might see them; all that you need is the cheapest box from Costco!
I won’t even buy the cheap ones from Costco. My customers give me their old PC’s if I need one…. My kind of price for a PC. All you need is the basic machine with IE installed to view websites.
You know this how? I suppose you might be basing it on the infamous "OSX release schedule slide" that inadvertently listed SL’s release in Q1 2009, but there’s been nothing official from Apple. It could be 6 months before it’s released — or tomorrow. 😉
Linda- Running Windows on the Macbook Pro is perfectly doable. There’s no need to manually partition the drive before hand "in case" you want to install Windows. The Boot Camp software allows you to partition the drive at any time (on-the-fly) without harm to your Mac data. Prior backup recommended of course, but it works very well.
If the laptop was your only machine, I’d agree with Ann that a cheap PC would be the way to go, as you’d have to constantly reboot back and forth between the Mac and Windows installs, but that’s not the case. Again, this is perfectly doable.
The 320GB drive is actually quite spacious for a laptop drive – the largest available being 500GB. As long as you’re not go to use it as your main machine and load every possible software available or store huge files, I think you have plenty of room. You could easily get by with 15 – 20GB partition for a simple install of Windows XP.
Of course there hasn’t: Apple never makes an announcement before software is ready to ship but there has been plenty of discussion of "Q1 2009" and we are only weeks away from the end of March.
Anyway, some of us are lucky enough to be running Tiger 10.4.11 so are not waiting with bated breath for the birth of the next Apple kitten.
🙂
—– Linda:
If CS4 is running slowly on your G5 on OSX 10.4.11; go to your Preferences/Caches/Adobe Photoshop CS4 and trash the entire contents of that folder.
Regarding CS3 on Leopard: Snow Leopard is due within the next few weeks; and you have CS4 anyway.
Ann, I hope you’re right. I discovered that some of the OS problems went away when I reinstalled Leopard without all the updates. Hopefully Snow Leopard will be better.
Linda-
Running Windows on the Macbook Pro is perfectly doable. There’s no need to manually partition the drive before hand "in case" you want to install Windows. The Boot Camp software allows you to partition the drive at any time (on-the-fly) without harm to your Mac data. Prior backup recommended of course, but it works very well.
If the laptop was your only machine, I’d agree with Ann that a cheap PC would be the way to go, as you’d have to constantly reboot back and forth between the Mac and Windows installs, but that’s not the case. Again, this is perfectly doable.
The 320GB drive is actually quite spacious for a laptop drive – the largest available being 500GB. As long as you’re not go to use it as your main machine and load every possible software available or store huge files, I think you have plenty of room. You could easily get by with 15 – 20GB partition for a simple install of Windows XP.
Thank you Phil. This helps.
I contacted my Apple store to see if there would be a chance I could return the MBP for the new 17" model with antiglare screen. This would be much more practical for my uses. Answer was no of course. I knew that would be the case but thought it wouldn’t hurt to ask.
From various sources, I hear that Snow Leopard is Mac-Intel only. If this is true, I’d expect to see the prices of second-hand G5s drop soon after Snow Leopard is released.
G5 costs deserve to be low. The only folks for whom they are appropriate new purchases are those intending to keep running legacy apps or essential legacy hardware and that also suffice with legacy cards. A limited number (non-zero) of users satisfy that combined description.
All new users, all users of only modern apps and all users with strong performance needs are much better off with some flavor of MacIntel.
Except that my CS4 Suite works brilliantly and flawlessly (including using OpenGL) in OSX 10.4.11 on my G5 with it’s new flashed-for-Mac video card, a new NEC 2690 monitor and a new two-days-old Epson Printer.
which is not what a lot of MacIntel/OSX 10.5.6 or Windows Users seem to be saying on these Forums.
Occasionally, as an exercise in keeping my brain active, I run Photoshop 7.0.1 in native Mac OS 9.2. I’m always amazed at what it can do in cases where I have no need of ACR. Also, it runs extremely fast on my machine running native OS 9.2, noticeably faster than the same application on the same machine under any version of OS X.
Ann, have you tried looking at side by sides of the same RAW of ProPhoto, a98, and sRGB with perceptual and relative, and 2.2 and 1.8 on your WG monitor? And what do you see? How do they print?
I am running the NEC 1290 monitor at 130 cd/m2; D65; Gamma 2.2.
I am processing my digital camera RAW files (and my scanned Tiffs!) through Bridge-hosted ACR 5.2 with ProPhoto RGB settings.
I open the 16-bit ProPhoto RGB files directly into Photoshop CS4 and print to my new Epson R1900 using Epson’s special "Premium ICC Profiles (which are downloadable from their site) normally using Relative Colorimetric.
The resulting prints are a perfect match to the Soft Proof View in Photoshop.
Staples had an incredible special deal on the R1900s last week and I was lucky enough to snag one. They are now out of stock there but I understand that B&H have a similar deal; and Epson themselves are offering a $150 rebate.
Adobe RGB and sRGB JPEGs also preview perfectly on this monitor and, provided that I embed sRGB Profiles in my sRGB JPEGs (which I always do now) they look fine in both Safari and Firefox.
Other peoples web sites, with non-profile-embedded photographs, are a different matter!
Well, I actually meant how do those various color spaces and renderings look side by side on your wide gamut monitor. Is there a very noticeable difference?
All that I can tell you is that the prints coming out of the R1900 MATCH the screen but i am working in a very well lit area both by day and at night so that could be the difference.
but i am working in a very well lit area both by day and at night so that could be the difference.
Yes that would make a huge difference. I prefer to work in very subdued, pure-white indirect lighting in order to minimize reflections and color casts on the screen. I have arranged it so the lighting is constant 24 hours a day. My target is 95 cd/m2, and the prints, viewed under Solux lights by the printer and 180º away from the monitor, are right on target.
…Except that my CS4 Suite works brilliantly and flawlessly (including using OpenGL) in OSX 10.4.11 on my G5
Yeah you have a legacy system, not a new purchase but fine for you as an existing setup. Note that your brilliantly and flawlessly is far, far poorer performance than MacIntel – – for years now; not what I personally call brilliantly. Adequate for folks who already own legacy setups but no way for new purchasers to go.
The brighter LCD monitors really have changed things: you no longer need to work in a cave to get perfectly matching color, brightness and contrast between Screen and Print.
I work in a normal room (with a big window and bright light bulbs) so that I can use the computer and read a book or document at my desk.
In that situation, setting the NEC 2690 to 130 cd/m2 is perfect; however this monitor does have a built-in ambient light sensor which takes care of changing daylight conditions. ——-
Note that your brilliantly and flawlessly is far, far poorer performance than MacIntel – – for years now;
EXCEPT that I ran CS3, and and am running CS4 with Open GL, without any of the nightmares which the users of Leopard have had to endure!
EXCEPT that I ran CS3, and and am running CS4 with Open GL, without any of the nightmares which the users of Leopard have had to endure!
You really need to stop regurgitating this FUD. Personally, I had NO issues with PSCS3 / Leopard after the 10.5.2 update and the (mostly minor) graphical glitches associated with CS4 have NOT been isolated to Leopard users.
As I’ve stated before, my Mac Pro is fully capable of running Tiger and yet, I STILL choose to run 10.5.
The only nightmare that Leopard users have had to endure are the multitudes of ignorant, uninformed posts from non-Leopard users about how bad it is.
My Macintel / Leopard system runs absolute circles around your relic! Revel in your antiquated-ness! 😀
You obviously have had a VERY different experience from most of the other users of Leopard but then you don’t use InDesign or other components of the Creative Suites in addition to Photoshop do you?
the (mostly minor) graphical glitches associated with CS4 have NOT been isolated to Leopard users.
I am trying to decide whether to run the 10.5.6 update on the MBP. It was troublesome before I erased and reinstalled everything, but then I had also installed the Quicktime update the first time.
I see there are problems listed at Macfixit.com but there seems to be a workaround on the Installation issues by downloading the Combo and booting in Safe Mode…
Does anyone here subscribe to MacFixit Pro/Version Tracker Pro Bundle <http://www.macfixit.com/subscribe/>? It’s $59.95 a year and I’m wondering if it might be worth it.
Maybe that will relieve some frustration as well as keep me quiet on my endless Troubleshooting issues.
I know, I know… Allen will want me to start another thread… and I say Hogwash! 🙂 My original thread which this one eventually replaced included more than just hardware.
The people who have the most trouble with upgrades usually are the ones who used "Software Update".
From all accounts, you should definitely upgrade to 10.5.6; but many of the Quicktime security updates over the past year have been very problematical and I wouldn’t be in too much of a hurry to install them.
I remember you saying this in the past, and I did it for a while, but then I guess I got lazy.
From all accounts, you should definitely upgrade to 10.5.6; but many of the Quicktime security updates over the past year have been very problematical and I wouldn’t be in too much of a hurry to install them.
I’ll give it a try. If it’s a problem I’ve only just reinstalled the system so I can always go back and do it again. Thanks Ann!
You obviously have had a VERY different experience from most of the other users of Leopard but then you don’t use InDesign or other components of the Creative Suites in addition to Photoshop do you?
Phil has the same experience that a lot of us have. Yes, we use the full suite. Leopard and Intel are not to be as feared as Ann’s advice.
I am confused how Ann speaks on any authority on Leopard or Intel when she apparently has no experience with either. Her experience is limited to reading a support forum where only problems are reported. She cannot see the many users that are successfully using Leopard. She cannot see the many users that use Software Update successfully. She cannot see the many users that successfully keep Quicktime updated and secure. She just cannot see. And her response to those that can see is always an insult or some form of belittling about our experience – – as if we do not use the hardware/software that is working fine in front of us.
FUD? The only thing we have to fear is Ann herself. 🙂
Ann, if you cannot accept the fact that Leopard works for others then the ‘wreck’ to this thread appears to be you. You are alone and have no business telling others how Leopard works (or does not work) when you don’t even use it yourself. Try gaining some experience before telling others what they should believe.
You obviously have had a VERY different experience from most of the other users of Leopard
And you know this how?
but then you don’t use InDesign or other components of the Creative Suites in addition to Photoshop do you?
Not true. I don’t use InDesign day-in and day-out, but I do find the occasions to use it. I don’t rely on it by any means.
Yes, I’m aware there’s supposed to be Leopard compatibility issues with ID, but given how FAR out of proportion these "Leopard/Photoshop issues" are bandied about, I wouldn’t be surprised if most of the ID issues were bogus as well.
Note I didn’t say they were bogus – I said I wouldn’t be surprised if they were. I don’t comment on Leopard / ID issues because I don’t have enough first hand experience with InDesign in Leopard. How about you?
Which "Glitches" would those be? Printing?
No. As I said "graphical glitches". Graphical …. as in the UI.
[I have NO printing problems printing from CS4.]
I have NO printing problems printing from CS4 either. None, nada, zero, zip. (with a 7-year-old Epson 2200, no less)
Yeah, I know …. you "heard" Leopard users have printing problems with PSCS4 …
I know …. you "heard" Leopard users have printing problems with PSCS4 …
It was mentioned yet again last night in a discussion in the Photography Forum.
I can print Vector files from Illustrator CS4 to a particular printer from my G5 running on 10.4.11; but another user, with a MacIntel running 10.5.6 and the SAME printer, cannot.
It appears to be another Leopard/MacIntel/Epson Drivers issue.
Phil I do all my printing from ID to my 2200. Yes I can print from Leopard but I don’t have the options available that I do in Tiger. Leopard is pretty cool I just don’t want it on my work machine right now.
IDCS3 didn’t play all that nice with Leopard IDCS4 seemed to work just fine. I must admit I have some Classic apps I still use from time to time, so that and the 2200 hundred are the 2 things that are keeping me in Tiger on the work machine. I just might reinstall Leopard on the spare drive again so I can play more when I find the time.
The problem for us (Cindy, Buko and me) is that the Epson 2200 was released in the UK and the EU as the Epson 2100. Alas, the UK driver for the 2100 does not recognize the 2200 printer and vice versa. 🙁
I’m getting ready to redo my G5. I backed up my client jobs to an external 1T RAID drive for now. I thought about wiping the current internal drive clean and then reinstalling. But then I remembered that the G5 is going on three years old. So why would I go to this much trouble reformatting an older drive when the newer bigger drives are so cheap.
So my thinking is to order a new internal TB drive and just remove the current drive to keep with all files as they are, order an external casing for it, and pull client jobs onto the new drive as needed.
After a little research on internal drives it appears that some users might be having trouble with the newer Seagate being recognized by the G5. My next choice would be Hitachi. I am looking at this one from Other World Computing. <http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Hitachi/0A38016/> I don’t see any specs regarding compatibility issues with the G5 one way or the other, so I thought I’d run it by this forum to see if any of you see any reason why it would not be a good choice.
I may be okay on previous question. I think I found the area where I can determine compatibility for the Seagate with G5 Quad. I’ve also sent an email inquiry to make sure.
Linda: I don’t know which Seagate HD you are considering, but I have a Seagate 1TB Model: ST31000340AS/ Revision: SD15 installed in my G5 and it has been fine.
trouble with the newer Seagate being recognized by the G5
Seagate told me about some Barracuda 7200.11 drives failing to be consistently recognized (data remains intact) and requiring a firmware update (Windows machine required for this). See: < http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp ?DocId=207931&Hilite=> Their newest generation 7200.12 drives, I’ve been assured, have no such problem.
Also, their drives come Windows formated (NTFS, a read-only format with a Mac). You must use Disk Utility to reformat the drive for the Mac (a good idea for almost any hard drive or USB flash memory to be used only on the Mac). This, of course, would mean booting off the Mac System disc if you are creating the only startup drive.
trouble with the newer Seagate being recognized by the G5
Seagate told me about some Barracuda 7200.11 drives failing to be consistently recognized (data remains intact) and requiring a firmware update (Windows machine required for this). See: < http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp ?DocId=207931&Hilite=> Their newest generation 7200.12 drives, I’ve been assured, have no such problem.
Also, their drives come Windows formated (NTFS, a read-only format with a Mac). You must use Disk Utility to reformat the drive for the Mac (a good idea for almost any hard drive or USB flash memory to be used only on the Mac). This, of course, would mean booting off the Mac System disc if you are creating the only startup drive.
I’m currently looking into a Barracuda 7200.12 1TB, model ST31000523AS. With the jumper in place, it is set up for SATA 1.5; remove the jumper for SATA 3.0. The problem is that it is a new model and I could not find it on line when I checked last.
The easiest way to reformat the new HD for Mac is to install it in the machine in the place of one of your other drives (not the Boot Drive) and format the new drive through Disk utility.
Then do an Archive & Install of OSX from the original CD and upgrade from the Combo and make it your Boot Drive in System preferences.
After doing that, you can swap your new HD for your old boot drive and install your applications from their original CDs.
Thank you for your feedback. I ended up ordering the Hitachi 1TB 7K1000 for $129 from OWC. I also ordered 2-4GB Memory Modules to replace the two 512 and two of the 1GB modules for $54.99 a pair at OWC.
The prices are amazing, too good to pass up on these items.
The easiest way to reformat the new HD for Mac is to install it in the machine in the place of one of your other drives (not the Boot Drive) and format the new drive through Disk utility.
Then do an Archive & Install of OSX from the original CD and upgrade from the Combo and make it your Boot Drive in System preferences.
After doing that, you can swap your new HD for your old boot drive and install your applications from their original CDs.
Thank you for this advice Ann. Sounds like a good way to do this.
Deactivate ALL of your Creative Suites before removing your old HD from the computer because Activation seems to be tied to the HD as well as to the Computer SN.
Then reactivate when you have installed the replacement Applications on your new HD.
I installed two new 1TB Hard Drives this week, and reinstalled all software fresh. I was hoping this would resolve some of the ongoing problems I’ve been having with email and other misc. bugs. But I was overly optimistic and some of the problems seem to have followed me to my new setup, only now a little more difficult.
So if I may imposed on you all once again
Mail Question:
Does anyone else have ongoing on again/off again problems with Mail?
It seems I get some mail and then don’t get it for a while. It’s intermittent. I researched this and found this advice at (I think was) the Apple Website:
I think for your issue on the one Mac, the next best thing to do is quit Mail, and in the Finder open Home/Library/Mail and locate the file named b MessageUidsAlreadyDownloaded3 and delete it. It may have become corrupt. Now relaunch Mail, and it should download all messages that currently reside on the POP server, including any previously downloaded.
I did this and it worked to a point, although to my dismay I was overwhelmed with all past emails that are still on my server. After sorting through them all I thought I was set. But now it seems to have happened all over again. There must be some sort of corruption going on with Apple Mail and the new install.
Is this possibly a server or server interface issue? Did you check your settings?
Neil, I assume you mean my settings at iPower. I’ll check them, but I don’t think it’s related since I now can get email on my previous setup when I boot from the old drive. Also I get email on my laptop.
Is your laptop hard wired to a modem or are you using it through Airport?
I am fairly certain that none of these problems relate to your System, or to the way that you have set-up Mail, but are due to problems with your ISP’s servers.
Is your laptop hard wired to a modem or are you using it through Airport?
Ann, Laptop is accessing through Airport… now Time Capsule. It is connected to the internet.
I am fairly certain that none of these problems relate to your System, or to the way that you have set-up Mail, but are due to problems with your ISP’s servers.
My internet service provider is Bellsouth.net. My web hosting is through iPower.com. I think the ISP affects outgoing mail and iPower would affect incoming mail. Correct me if I’m wrong.
Maybe it is my hosting company. I just logged on and saw this message:
Network Slowness and Connectivity Issues Our Network Operations team is currently working to repair a network issue that may be causing slowness or connectivity issues with our control panel, e-mail and ftp services, as well as customer websites loading slowly. We are currently working with our upstream bandwidth providers as well as hardware manufacturers to isolate the issue and restore full service as quickly as possible. We apologize for this service degradation and will update this alert with more information as it becomes available as well as when the issue has been isolated and resolved. – 02/12/09 at 13:53 ET
I wanted to share this information because it seems to have resolved my recent email problems, and might also help someone else.
The following advice was from a user at the Apple Forum, BDAqua:
Not certain, but this can fix myriad Mail problems…
Safe Boot from the HD, (holding Shift key down at bootup), run Disk Utility in Applications>Utilities, then highlight your drive, click on Repair Permissions, then move these folder & file to the Desktop.
For those running Tiger, beware of the most recent Security Update + Java. I just ran it on my previous main G5 Hard Drive. Everything froze up. I shut down and rebooted from one of the new hard drives without the update. Attempted to run Permissions on the old drive but it’s grayed out. I’m now trying to find a solution.
I can access the drive’s files from the other drive but the system might be corrupted.
Probably the problems are specific to your setup or perhaps just to G5s. I have all the latest 10.4.11 updates running on a 2.66 GHz 2006 Mac Pro and also on a 2.33 GHz Macbook Pro, no problems.
While I was running on one of the new hard drives, I disconnected the new Belkin USB Hub, then rebooted back onto the old hard drive. This time I was able to boot up and run permissions. I then decided to do what Ann often recommends, run DiskWarrior on both the old HD and the two new ones.
Shutting down for the night but will report back tomorrow.
Everything seems to be better now. I have a feeling at least part of the problem might be related to the new Belkin Network USB Hub and software that is activated on startup. The hub is disconnected now but will experiment with it again when I finish up some of my jobs.
I was getting ready to purchase Cocktail, but also looked at OnyX which is free. It seems they are both good, so I might try OnyX for a while.
It’s definitely the Belkin Network Hub software. Once I started using it again, it brought down my drive to where I had to turn off the Mac. I’ll be removing it.
Just to report, no problem with the update on my G5 running 10.4.11. Permissions and drive repaired with Disk Utility before and after. Same for DiskWarrior.
I’ve pretty much deducted that the problem was with the Belkin Hub and software. I’ve since disconnected the hub and uninstalled the software. I think there must be a conflict with Belkin and the security update.
Hm… good questions. Originally I couldn’t get the hub to work. I have it plugged into the Time Capsule. Once I installed the software then the hub worked, up until I ran the Security Update.
Maybe I should experiment with it at some point again without the software.
I just installed the Security Update (OS 10.4.11) and since then my desktop icons where disappearing and reappearing a few seconds late and any Finder windows that were open would close, and all of this every minute or so.
I turned off Stuffit AVR in the System Preferences and it solved it.
Very good! I’ve not bothered to run the update on my laptops or the two new internal drives, and probably won’t until I feel I can take the extra risks.
I have run the dreaded Security Update without incident on both my machines, a 2007 Intel Macbook Pro, and a 2008 Intel Mac Pro. No problems whatsoever.
We’ve run it on several of our machines (MacBooks, MacBook Alus, MacBook Pros and iMac 24") at work and none have had any problems. I’ve also run it on both my own machines and have no problems. If you have a stable system to begin with and no haxies or other "fun" things installed, and disconnect all external things when doing the installation, there should be nothing to worry about. Normal caution with other words. In my experience, when people get problems with security updates, it usually is something very particular in the users own system ti begin with that causes it.
Belkin is one of the most respected venders out there. Im sure that theyd be more than interested in hearing of any problems that customers encounter with any of their products/software.
Hm… I just plugged it back into the TimeCapsule, but it’s not working. The TimeCapsule is connected to the G5 via a network cable. Would that make a difference?
I don’t have to use the hub. I normally just keep swapping cables as I use devices. But I was hoping that by plugging the hub into the TimeCapsule I could use all my print devices wirelessly while on the laptops.
My need to zap the PRAM after installing the Apple updates may have been caused by my earlier installation of a rather expensive application called DXO Optics Pro which I had inadvisably decided to try after a rave-recommendation by a Photography Forum member.
I found that ACR 5.3 does everything that DXO is supposed to do and does it a great deal better.
DXO may have caused a conflict with the new Apple updates which caused my start-up problems and required a zapping of PRAM to clear up even though I had repaired permissions both before and after installing the Apple updates.
Getting rid of DXO is another matter: it buries some 18 different files all over your HD and provides no un-installer!
If you are thinking of giving DXO Optics Pro a berth, make sure that it’s a wide one!
I did get them fixed, thanks for asking. I posted the solution on a thread, but now I can’t remember where. I thought it was this one but I don’t see it.
Back to the USB Hub. Some here mentioned that I should not need to install the software to make it work with my Mac. I don’t have time to do much experimenting. I’ve uninstalled the software since it seemed to be a little problematic.
I thought I might just post the model in case some of you are familiar with it and might have some words of wisdom. If not, that’s fine. Fortunately the one I bought was only around $20 at Sam’s so it’s not too much of a loss if I don’t use it.
I suspect the networking aspect of the hub is causing your problems. Why did you get this? You’re connecting to an EXISTING network – the TC will take care of your networking needs – all you need is a simple, "dumb" hub which will not require any software.
A hub connected to your TimeCapsule should work fine. I’ve been thinking about doing the same thing with my Airport Extreme router (essentially, the same thing as TimeCapsule w/o the hard drive)
I suspect the networking aspect of the hub is causing your problems. Why did you get this?
I thought it was a simple USB Hub that would extend my ports.
What are you using the ethernet jack of the hub for?
I think it’s the only way to connect to the TimeCapsule. I could possibly get a USB cable that is flat on both ends and try hooking it that way.
You’re connecting to an EXISTING network – the TimeCapsule will take care of your networking needs – all you need is a simple, "dumb" USB hub which will not require any software.
I guess that’s what I thought I was getting.
A hub connected to your TimeCapsule should work fine. I’ve been thinking about doing the same thing with my Airport Extreme router (essentially, the same thing as TimeCapsule w/o the hard drive)
If you do, let me know what you end up getting. I thought this was a simple hub.
Are you trying to get this to work via the network? Totally unnecessary and overcomplicating matters. TimeCapsule has a USB port. Just connect the hub through USB and you should be good to go.
But I would buy another USB-only hub. The Belkin you linked appears to be a wireless device that you allows you to connect USB devices. That’s a feature you don’t need as it essentially duplicates the function of your TC.
Are you trying to get this to work via the network? Totally unnecessary and overcomplicating matters. TimeCapsule has a USB port. Just connect the hub through USB and you should be good to go.
In this case I probably need to order a USB cable that has the flat end on each side. All mine have one square end and one flat end.
But I would buy another USB-only hub. The Belkin you linked appears to be a wireless device that you allows you to connect USB devices. That’s a feature you don’t need as it essentially duplicates the function of your TC.
On second thought, I don’t think a USB cable will help you with this hub. From what I can tell, the USB ports on it are for connecting peripherals like printers or hard drives.
USB hubs will come with the needed USB cable to connect it to the computer (or TC in your case).
On second thought, I don’t think a USB cable will help you with this hub. From what I can tell, the USB ports on it are for connecting peripherals like printers or hard drives.
Thanks for checking and clarifying Phil. This is what I was thinking.
USB hubs will come with the needed USB cable to connect it to the computer (or TC in your case).
I don’t think mine came with a cable. I used an old Network Cable that I found in a drawer.
For now I have my printer plugged into the TimeCapsule’s one USB port so it’s at least working with my laptops.
I’m going to buy a Mac Pro. Which graphic card is ideal for PsCS4? I also want to do some video editing and 3DSMax on Windows XP but mostly PsCS4 in Leopard. As I was just told there are four possible choices.
Note the ATI 4870 at the linked Barefeats site is Windows ONLY. Won’t be much help for someone interested in "mostly PSCS4 in Leopard".
Unless you want stock (the ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT which should work fine with CS4 but lag for your Win 3D apps), or are willing to spend over $2800 for the ultra high-end card from Apple, you really have only two options currently. The NVIDIA 8800 GT (cheaper if configured with the Mac than after the fact), or the ATI HD 3870 available at OWC for $217 U.S.
Either of those two will work fine. The one caution is that if you plan on using Apple’s Pro apps, go for the ATI 3870. For some reason, the NVIDIA is not optimized for best performance with apps like Final Cut Pro or Motion. I have the 3870 and it works great.
(also note that you cannot mix and match graphics cards in the Mac Pro if you plan on using more than one – must be the same make, if not the same make and model.)
Problem is, that I have to buy the Mac Pro from Apple, and I just called to learn that I must buy one of the three they offer (can’t have no graphic card).
Now it doesn’t make sence to me to buy the cheapest card just to take it out and replace it. So I was wondering if I could use the ATI Radeon HD 2600 XT 256MB together with the 3780. Has anyone experience with the combo?
Apple won’t sell a computer w/o a video card because that wouldn’t be a working machine. Other computer manufacturers (like Dell), won’t sell this way either.
As for running the 2600 and 3870 together, it’d be iffy but I don’t know that for certain. If they don’t play nice together, you’ll have all kinds of problems with PSCS4. Best would be to run the same exact cards. You might ask about this in the Apple’s Mac Pro discussions forum.
Don’t completely dismiss the NVIDIA 8800 GT though – despite the shortcomings I mentioned wrote earlier, it’s a solid performer. It would also be the least expensive option w/o the need to yank a perfectly good card if it turns out the 2600/3870 combo doesn’t work.
Q. Why can’t Photoshop take advantage of more than one display card?
A. When you move an image window between two monitors that are each on a separate display card, the GPU attached to the second monitor does not have access to the data necessary to accelerate drawing. The SLI and Crossfire technologies that use more than one GPU to speed up full-screen games will not work with Photoshop, because their use is limited by design to accelerate only full-screen games.
What’s more, you may not get any benefit in Photoshop from running multiple video cards according to this Adobe tech note
The SLI and Crossfire technologies that use more than one GPU to speed up full-screen games will not work with Photoshop, because their use is limited by design to accelerate only full-screen games.
This has nothing to do with the Mac OS – SLI and Crossfire works in Windows ONLY.
However, that still doesn’t mean there’s no reason to use two video cards with OSX – if you need to run more than two displays, you need more than one video card.
Unless you are in a tearing hurry because your old machine has died on you, you might want to wait until Snow Leopard is announced so that you get it included in the price.
I guess that they are pitching it as the "Economy Model". It only has four RAM slots and can only use 2GB RAM sticks; the other one has 8 slots and can use 4GB RAM sticks at a price!
I don’t think that Apple are calling it "an Economy Model" that was my editorialising!
Part of the pricing probably is directly related to the value of the $US in relation to the currencies of the countries where these computers are being built.
I am still very happy with my G5 too which is a good thing because there definitely needs to be a moratorium on ANY further spending from this location for a while!
We’ll I’m working on a G4 and I can’t get 2GB of RAM in there, so no CS4 on my machine at home. I’ve wanted a new Mac for about 4 1/2 years now. The OS doesn’t bother me. When 10.6 is out I’ll have to wait anyway, to see what bugs it has.
I’ll pick the cheapest graphic card for the moment and the "smallest" hard disc. The graphic cards are all kind of crappy, aren’t they?
The RAM is a bad deal. What do I do with 6x 1GB in the long run? Replace them. Apple’s prices are way to high so I don’t want to take the next higher set either. You could chose 2GB for the last Mac Pro, and buy the rest somewhere else. Not sure what to choose now.
I was going to wait a while for the iMac since my husband turned his MBP back over to me. But I am actually thinking that I might prefer to buy before Snow Leopard comes out. I don’t want to end up not being able to use GoLive.
I’ve been using DW along side GL for a while, and it will remain part of my workflow, but the more I use DW the more I appreciate how powerful GL really is when it comes to site management, and the time I save is worth keeping the current OS for.
The graphic cards are all kind of crappy, aren’t they?
Actually IMO both the graphics cards are excellent. Probably the HD 4870 will turn out best for your apps and well worth the +$200. My expectation is that initial comparative tests will be out in a week or two, but upon further reflection if I had to choose today I would probably order the HD 4870 betting on the come of expected Snow Leopard performance.
The RAM is a bad deal. What do I do with 6x 1GB in the long run? Replace them.
In the short run just live with the 6 GB of DDR3. In a month or so new 4 GB-sized RAM choices will be available for the new MPs and you can re-evaluate then if necessary (preorder prices on the 4 GB-size are absurdly high right now). If you need more RAM immediately 2 GB-sized DIMMs are available now; 4x2GB only cost $150 from OWC.
I have a suspicion that the 8 GB RAM limit of the single Quad Core is merely Apple’s limit of what’s available from Apple. Notice that the max 32 GB of the dual Quad Core uses 4 gig chips, whereas it’s 2 gig chips for the single Quad.
They’re both using the same spec’d RAM – I wouldn’t be surprised if you could stuff the Quad with 4 x 4 gig chips for an actual max of 16 GB.
Naturally, it makes sense to wait and see if this is actually possible or not (places like Barefeats will probably test), but it wouldn’t be the first time Apple has done this. Also notice that they list a maximum HD space of 4 TB (4×1 TB). There are 2 TB drives available – providing the actual capability of 8 TB.
I wouldn’t be surprised if you could stuff the Quad with 4 x 4 gig chips for an actual max of 16 GB
I would be surprised if you could stuff the Quad with 4 x 4 gig chips for an actual max of 16 GB. Apple did this before with low end G5 tower RAM as a way of allowing a lower entry price point without cannibalizing high end sales.
Apple did this before with low end G5 tower RAM as a way of allowing a lower entry price point without cannibalizing high end sales.
Yes, but that was ONLY because of less slots, not because the low-end couldn’t accept larger capacity sticks than the high-end. All models of that generation can (still) only accept 1 gig sticks.
This is different.
Of course, it’s possible that Apple has instilled something in the new Quad to prevent it from recognizing 4 gig sticks, but given the RAM is the same in all models with the same specs, that’s not clear at this point. Time will tell.
Electrical limits, heat buildup, slot spacing, data throughput could be issues that prevent use of larger capacity sticks. Or it could be like some cameras and earlier computer models which don’t include high capacity memory in their specs as they were not "invented" or in common distribution at the time of the product release. Or maybe there was no testing of them at that time, but they could be OK.
After doing some homework to make sure I wouldn’t be seeing large clouds of smoke, I’ve added larger capacity memory cards to my 2-year-old DSLR and more RAM to older iMacs than they originally allowed for.
Electrical limits, heat buildup, slot spacing, and data throughput could be issues that prevent use of larger capacity sticks. Or it could be like some cameras and earlier computer models which don’t include high capacity memory in their specs as they were not "invented" or in common distribution at the time of the product release. Or maybe there was no testing of them or of specific brands at that time, but they could be OK.
After doing some homework to make sure I wouldn’t be seeing large clouds of smoke, I’ve added larger capacity and different brands of memory cards to my 2-year-old DSLR and more RAM to older iMacs than they originally allowed for.
the older minis ran fine with a 2gB stick in place of one of the two 1gBs, but not both. Would that the new mini could use two 4gB sticks, I would consider it if it would also hold a 1tB HD.
Remember, according to Apple, my early 2008 Macbook can only accept up to 4 GB of RAM and yet, I can install 6 GB. -phil
You can add one 4-GB module but you cannot utilize 2x4GB= 8 GB, which means that your Macbook’s addressable RAM is limited by the box, not by the size of the two modules.
This weekend I spilled my Sobe on my Aluminum keyboard. This morning It was all gummy and sticky. It still worked just not very well. So I rinsed out the aluminum one with warm water as there does not seem to be any way to take this keyboard apart.
I’m letting it dry out now the keys are not sticking anymore. I’ll report back on how well this worked.
Thanks for sharing your keyboard experience Buko. It’s nice to know just in case I have my own keyboard fiasco some day. As it is I wish the only fiasco I had right now was a keyboard one.
There are reports of people running their keyboard through their dishwasher, skipping the drying cycle, then letting it sit for a few days before using it.
Just be aware they got 2 models nowadays of the aluminum keyboards. One without numerical keys, which is standard with the new Macs, and one with the numerical keys, which you can order separately. The small one looks really cutoff and a bad choice if you are one of those who use all your fingers and the nuemrical for numbers and/or shortcuts and extra F-keys.
Recently moved Photoshop CS3 from PowerBook G3 to MacBook Pro. Would not open. Photoshop support had me do something that worked…. except now I get a warning message every time I open Photoshop. "Photoshop moved from where initially installed. Repair some settings". Then Photoshop takes real long to launch. Does this each time I run Photoshop after turning off computer. Photoshop insists I pay for their install advice that created this error.
I might add, I don’t use a scanner much but when I need it I need it. Typically photos provided to me by a customer. I need a good scan. Sometimes for web, sometimes for print. I do not scan film.
I would like for it to come with software that works with Photoshop CS4 and Tiger. I know there are some that say PS is not the place to scan but prefer a stand-alone but I like it this way based on frequency which is low.
I’m not finding much either. I’m thinking of getting a really cheap one based on how much I use it but it has to do a good job of photos when I get them.
I have the once top-of-the-line (now considered cheapo) Epson Perfection 4990 and it has really a very good flat-bed scanner.
Those were superseded by the V700 and V75o and I notice that Epson have some refurbished v700s for $415 and some other models for even less than that.
I have four scanners, three of which I’m very satisfied with. (The fourth one is one of the film scanners, and I would only rate that one as plain satisfactory).
They are not current models, but they very often can be acquired either refurbished from Epson or as second hand unit at very attractive prices.
I’ll skip my dedicated film scanners, since you say you don’t do film.
My tabloid size-scanner, obtained as a refurbished unit, is an Epson Perfection Expression 836XL. It’s an incredibly robust and accurate unit with true optical scanning quality of 800 ppi main, 1600 ppi sub. It scans reflective material (prints), slides and negatives too. It came with a very wide variety of film holders, up to 8×10.
My regular flatbed scanner, received in excellent condition from a most generous benefactor two years ago, is an Epson Perfection 4990 Photo. 4800 ppi main, 9600 ppi with Micro Step sub. It also does a superb job of reflective material as well as transparent materials such as acetate, slides and film. This latter feature might come in handy if you ever get an unexpected slide or negative to scan.
I can recommend either one without hesitation.
Naturally, I would expect the corresponding successor models to be at least equally excellent, possibly better. But, then, the successor model to my tabloid scanner is priced at $2,500 new.
I would like to get a v700 but for now I think I am going to look for a refurb or even a second hand unit. It has been so long since I looked that I lost touch.
Are any of the Canons any good? Probably wont compete with Epson.
I have a problem-free/easy set-up Canon Canoscan 9950F USB scanner running under Mac OS X 10.4.11 which I’m very satified with, for both print and transparent material. It also has very handy front panel Copy, Scan, PDF, and e-Mail buttons.
I don’t use a scanner much but when I need it I need it. Typically photos provided to me by a customer. I need a good scan. Sometimes for web, sometimes for print. I do not scan film.
any of the units recommended above and even lower end units will work just fine for simple print scans. Personally I believe in buying good tools no matter what and have had great success with Epson so IMO refurbs of the 4990 or V700 are great suggestions.
I have a 4490 and I am very happy with it. It works fine in both Tiger and Leopard. I scan very little these days and find the 4490 fits my needs nicely. It works with VueScan as well as te Epson software that comes with it.
I actually fixed my scanner. I sat there and watched the light scan with the lid open and I saw a little plastic piece sticking up causing the light not to be even across the scanning mechanism. SO, I took it apart, got a tad of super glue and success!
Just thought I would report. 🙂
BTW, there is just about every kind of user group on Yahoo and I happen to find an Epson 3200 group that just happen to have a file on how to take this thing apart. It was very simple. 2 screws.
Thanks Linda. I’m pretty jazzed myself. It is amazing to me the poor workmanship in these things. I really had nothing to lose. It was either the trash or shell out another chunk of change for something I don’t use much anymore.
Cindy, I hear you on not wanting to spend the money, especially on a scanner since I’m sure you have very limited use for one. It’s a great feeling when you can do this stuff yourself. Having time to do it is another matter. I have a new hard drive sitting on my desk that needs to be installed before the time runs out to return it if it’s bad. And one new one inside that has failed, and is too late to return. 🙁
Well see, it had a rattle. Rattles drive me crazy even if nothing is wrong. I paced for 3 days listening to it until I could stand it no longer. So I took the back off. I honed in on that baby in less than 10 seconds. Turns out the compressor is sitting on 4 bolts. There is a rubber cushion, a flat washer and then a very large cotter pin on each bolt. The cotter pin was rattling against the washer on one of the posts. So, I popped out the cotter pin, put a piece of rubber with a hole in it over the washer and put the cotter pin back. It is quiet as a mouse.
I didn’t want to call for service (it is new) since it never rattled before noon (yeah, it’s true). I couldn’t count on when they would come. I figured some kind of expansion and contraction due to weather accounted for that.
And THAT is my story about scanners (not to lose site of the topic).
Well see, it had a rattle. Rattles drive me crazy even if nothing is wrong. I paced for 3 days listening to it until I could stand it no longer. So I took the back off. I honed in on that baby in less than 10 seconds. Turns out the compressor is sitting on 4 bolts. There is a rubber cushion, a flat washer and then a very large cotter pin on each bolt. The cotter pin was rattling against the washer on one of the posts. So, I popped out the cotter pin, put a piece of rubber with a hole in it over the washer and put the cotter pin back. It is quiet as a mouse.
I hear Cindy also fixes perpetually running toilets….
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Linda,
Installing a new hard drive shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes to fix. The only caveat is to double-check if you need a jumper connected and between which two posts if you do.
Not so easy if the old wires are anchored like they’re supposed to be.
Lets hope they are not. Actually, where would they be anchored? If it is at either end you just disconnect it. I have never seen it anchored other than that.
Installing a new hard drive shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes to replace. The only caveat is to double-check if you need a jumper connected and between which two posts if you do. And you probably need to format it HSF+. OK…two caveats!
Thanks for the tips Neil. I want to copy the OS and Apps to this new drive from the other new one that is going bad. What’s nice is that the bad drive keeps coming back from time to time. I’m actually working from it today. So if I don’t wait too long I might be able to clone the whole thing and erase this drive before sending it in for repair. I might start the process when I quit working tonight.
Another bummer though. Remember the RAID drive I bought about six months ago? It is going bad too. It will try to start up but then fizzle out. One time it will work; the next time it won’t. Fortunately I have those files backed up to the other drive I bought at the same time.
Not having the best of luck with these newer hard drives I’m sorry to say.
I rewired a house and built a second floor loft in a warehouse hauling in very large beams… Now top that Ann. LOL
Can’t "top it" exactly; but I have added a number of new circuits; and helped to turn an attic into a studio; and transported a 14-foot steel beam (tied on the roof of my car!) to strengthen the gable-end girt. But I did have help so it doesn’t top your effort!
Can’t "top it" exactly; but I have added a number of new circuits; and helped to turn an attic into a studio; and transported a 14-foot steel beam (tied on the roof of my car!) to strengthen the gable-end girt. But I did have help so it doesn’t top your effort!
Hmm… If memory serves me right, there was a marble bathroom installed by a certain someone named Ann, in which she installed the marble herself, and which I think she previously handpicked from the quarry. How’s my memory doing so far? 🙂
Cindy – the romex cable could have anchors inside the wall, generally pulling it to the side next to a stud. And it definitely needs anchors when run across an attic or crawlspace. And, of course, they’re never loose enough to pull new wire through.
It’s supposed to be stapled every four feet I believe, in order to be "according to code" although you can’t do that if you are dropping the wire inside an existing cavity wall.
The length that I need to replace is from inside the circuit-breaker box to an exposed junction box at the other end of the basement so it’s fairly straight-forward.
It’s supposed to be stapled every four feet I believe, in order to be "according to code"
My bad!
The length that I need to replace is from inside the circuit-breaker box to an exposed junction box at the other end of the basement so it’s fairly straight-forward.
Installing a new hard drive shouldn’t take more than 15 minutes to replace. The only caveat is to double-check if you need a jumper connected and between which two posts if you do. And you probably need to format it HSF+. OK…two caveats!
Neil, I’m formatting my new internal drive now. I’m not sure what you meant about jumper. There are two cables connected to each internal drive. The options for formatting don’t seem to include HSF+. I’m writing the drive to zeros using Mac OS Extended (Journaled).
This will take a while so if I’m not doing this right, maybe you (or someone else if you’re not around) can let me know.
Jumper placement can determine whether it is a 1.5 or 3.0 SATA drive.
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Linda,
A jumper is a tiny "strap" that bridges two of the terminal pins you’ll see on the end of the drive adjacent to where the power and signal cables connect, and change certain drive characteristics. You probably don’t need it, but you should verify.
The options for formatting don’t seem to include HSF+. I’m writing the drive to zeros using Mac OS Extended (Journaled).
I’ve seen jumpers (about 1/4" long) either already on the drive in a default location, or packaged in small plastic bags. You either need fingernails or a tweezers to place or remove them.
Last night I cloned all files from another drive to this one using SuperDuper. It seems to be working fine. I’m running off of it now. Do you think I should remove the drive to make sure the jumper is okay?
No. I wouldn’t do anything like that now. Yet it couldn’t hurt to ask your drive manufacturer if there is an optimum setting for jumpers on your system.
Is it Cindy who is having constant HD failures? No one is that unlucky. You have something else wrong, the controller card, power supply, connections. Find the common factor before you buy anything else.
We’ve had about a dozen, give or take, since 1991 but that is off 4-5 dozen or so multi-drive Mac and Win machines over the years. But we can usually tell when they’re dying and have time to deal with them. More often than not, we use those as opportunities to put in larger new drives.
Run any mechanical drive long and hard enough and it will fail. Guaranteed.
Thanks for the input Lundberg and Neil. A few weeks back I bought and installed two new 1TB Hitachi internal drives. I formatted and installed all software fresh, then cloned it over to the other drive. It wasn’t long before one drive began making unusual clicking noises off and on. I was too busy to deal with removing it and returning it, so I finally ended up ordering another new one, only this time a Seagate 1TB and now have cloned all the software to it. The questionable drive is still running. I plan to send it in for repairs once I have a little extra time, but in no hurry at this point since work keeps coming in, and I’m at least set with what I need.
As for the external RAID drive. Not sure what’s going on, but that one does appear to be dying. Fortunately I am pretty sure my files are all backed up to another drive.
Guess tomorrow the forums will come down, and the new ones will be up on Monday. I will miss not having all these informative threads in this format with you all. It feels like the end of an era for me.
Cindy, I’ll give it a shot, but not sure how long it will last. I’m sure I will experience withdrawals from this way of posting, and from the general atmosphere here, for a while.
On the plus side, if I find myself not feeling like posting on the new forum/blog thingie, I should be able to get that much more work done. 😉
You are going to have to go over there and start a 2009 Macs and Peripherals :: General Discussion :: Chapter IV
This will be my legacy. 🙂 I’ll turn over future chapters to Buko since he’s done a good job on steering this one.
I want to send a very warm message of appreciation to Neil Keller. What a great moderator he has been. He has gone out of his way to help make things convenient for us. He has been so supportive, and very fair, upbeat, and polite with his moderating. Thank you Neil!
You are going to have to go over there and start a "2009 Macs and Peripherals :: General Discussion :: Chapter IV" thread.
The existing Chapter III should be ported over.
I am wondering… Neil, are you still going to be a moderator?
What, did you hear something I didn’t? 🙂
I will be in the new forums — although it might take a bit until I understand what all the new buttons and dials are on my hosting console. You know, "I wonder what happens if I click this…" 🙂
The new forums are so bad I’m not sure I’ll be around much. They are not very convenient to pop in between tasks as you must spend 5 or 10 minutes figuring where you left off.
You mean we should all "move to a better party down the street" like we all did when we made a mass exit from the AOL SIG Forums about ten years ago?
Let me know when you find an address for a Better Party this time.
Ann, You are totally misunderstanding the benefits of email-digests. I’ve always been on email-digest for this and other forums. I never go to the forums except for answering or starting a topic.
Neil, Digests also are not an awful lot of emails, it is one collected email at the interval you set for how often you want to receive them. They contain links to the live topics, just click and you are there to participate in the discussion. But without having to actually go to the forum and search for that elusive topic.
I’ve never been a fan of forums, always preferred emails.
I also read everything on the forums through email and respond directly on the forum. It has the added bonus of allowing me to save them if they are on something that I want to refer back to later.
Learn how to rescue details, remove flyaways, add volume, and enhance the definition of hair in any photo. We break down every tool and technique in Photoshop to get picture-perfect hair, every time.
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