Cable is only that way when there are a lot of users on the line at he same time and it might not happen in your area so that my be why you always have a freer line and many people in your area are probably using AOL and therefore you have that benefit as well they are on dial up and still have not moved over.
However if and when verizon moves to fios then the speed will really improve for verizon customers as we will move to cable as well with a technology that is supposed to limit the effects of heavy traffic. Right now I get results with that test about half the speed of Ann who has I think 6 Mbs connection with the fios the standard is 10 Mbs but you can go up to 50 Mbs if you choose to pay but CVomcast is working on matching that but by the time their time table is met both them and verizon will probably offering 100 Mbs connections which is more than enough to live stream a high definition full length movie.
No reason to download it if you don’t want to watch it again and you can watch it while you work. i don’t know why anyone would do that and of course that makes software subscription possible and so in the future you will not own the software you will have to work off of a server at say Adobe.
However that might make it actually cheaper or at least you would not have to pay for the upgrades and Adobe can add features without waiting for a release date for the new version and be freed up to fix bugs more readily.
Give your photos a professional finish with sharpening in Photoshop. Learn to enhance details, create contrast, and prepare your images for print, web, and social media.
I got today my 8 Core 3.2 16 Gig Nvidia 8800 card . What I got now is a single 750 Gog one drive / one partition . I will buy 3 more Seagate Barracuda 7200.11 drives.
I would like to keep thing relatively simple so I would like to use migration assistant to move applications from my old Tiger box .
I know I should be reinstalling everything manually , been there last time – it took me 2 months to set up all .
I’m not sure how to partition my drives . I like Jeff Schewes idea about partitioning documents drive and scratch on the same disk .
I was thinking about dividing my original drive into :
partition A 600 MB document storage on one Barracuda , partition B 120 Gig MB Scratch ( too much ?? ) I rarely exceed 600 MB in Layered PSds ..
Second Barracuda TIme Machine for Documents ONLY
Crazy ?
Third Barracuda 1 partition = 120 Gig VIsta BAckup 2 Partion = 120 Gig Leopard Backup ( Updated manually when healthy using Super Duper ) – More crowded partitions for those backup solutions only
3 Partition 400 Gig = Long ( er ) term storage .
Thank you very much for your suggestions . I know this is a perfect place to ask ( with combined PS / Mac expertise )
Regards from Stockholm . ( On my way to Tokyo on thursday :-))
So glad you posted. Good questions. I hope you get the answers because I’m sure there are several of us who will be following behind you. I know I probably will at some point.
If you’re going to partition that second internal drive, make sure you put Photoshop’s primary scratch disk on the first partition, which is the fastest one.
As for the size of that partition, figure roughly on 35 to 50 times the size of your largest file depending on your usual number of layers, history states, etc. Multiply that by the number of files open at the same time. That’ll give you a relatively safe scratch disk size.
If you’re going to partition that second internal drive, make sure you put Photoshop’s primary scratch disk on the first partition, which is the fastest one.
Maybe I ‘ll make scratch smaller then 100 Gig . In fact I never have worked with anything larger then 1 gig . So 60 Gig scratch should be plenty
What about Leopard partition . I have one now on my G5 – it is 50 Gig only ( slightly crowded ) maybe 180 Gig is a waste of storage . Planing for future updates : 150 Gig should give me overhead of at least 50 Gig even if I keep this box 3 years ?!
In fact I never have worked with anything larger then 1 gig .
So 60 Gig scratch should be plenty
if you never have more than one image open, maybe. 😀
As I said before, you should ALWAYS install ALL applications from scratch, from the original media. When going from a PowerPC machine to a Mac-Intel, this becomes absolutely essential. No ifs or buts.
I’ve never had any problems with the Migration Assistant moving applications – particularly not Adobe apps and if you de-activate them first and re-activate at new location. We do this all the time, daily and multiple times for our users (which count in the hundreds in numbers). Never had any problems with it. I know others have other opinions about it, but… Problems have not popped up down the line later either after using the Migration Assistant. If the original user account is problem free, and the apps are compatible with receiving machine-model, no problems.
I’d be REALLY dubious about doing the between different versions of 10.x they arn’t exactly the same in all respects and some programs do configure themselves differently for dif processors or 10.4/10.5
Besides it never hurts to clean out all the crap occasionally, although I tend to find a lot of funky NEW crap to install…… oh well
Just sold my G5 Dual 2.7 Room Heater to a wheeler-dealer who scouts them out for music studios, which are stuck in Power PC land because some of their main apps aren’t yet Intel-native. The G5 was a finicky beast, and I was not sorry to see it go. IMHO the Mac OS just runs better on Intel, as I have found using my Macbook Pro.
Currently en route to me is a brand new Mac Pro 2.8 GHz 8 core, and an 8 GB RAM kit from Data Memory Systems. I am stoked. Naturally, I will take advantage of the new machine to build a clean Leopard system from scratch, & install all my Adobe apps (and everything else as well) from original media. My favorite trackball of all time died on me, and they are no longer made: the Logitech Cordless Trackman FX – the Cadillac of trackballs. I think I will try using my Wacom for everything as some have suggested.
music studios, which are stuck in Power PC land because some of their main apps aren’t yet Intel-native.
With the release of 10.5.4 ProTools has been able to release version 7.4 which works best on the Mactels. in fact its feature set is much smaller on the PPC Macs.
It is silent perfection. I am in love. With 10 GB RAM, Photoshop usually doesn’t need the scratch disk. I certainly will not miss my balky, finicky, noisy G5.
With the release of 10.5.4 ProTools has been able to release version 7.4 which works best on the Mactels. in fact its feature set is much smaller on the PPC Macs.
I don’t know from Music apps. I sold it to a dealer who had a client who needed a PPC machine. Maybe the guy didn’t want to upgrade all his apps?
It is silent perfection. I am in love. With 10 GB RAM, Photoshop usually doesn’t need the scratch disk. I certainly will not miss my balky, finicky, noisy G5.
Sounds very nice. Thankfully, my G5 has been treating me pretty good and I’ve had very few problems, especially over the past year. It’s turned out to be one of the best setups I’ve owned so far. I don’t really notice much noise unless I am performing a memory intensive Photoshop task which might temporarily rev things up.
As Photoshop can only access 3GB RAM on a 32-bit system, I’m not sure how that’s the complete answer.
I doubt that it is. I haven’t done enough research to be able to evaluate this authoritatively. I merely looked at Photoshop’s efficiency meter as I ran a Smart Blur on a 535 MB file, and it varied from the mid – nineties to 100%. The efficiency meter is supposed to reflect the percentage of Photoshop’s calculations done in RAM vs. Scratch Disk, I read.
Well, if I read that article correctly, 64 bit would still offer faster performance on large files, but meanwhile, more RAM is always better, because when the OS copies scratch into RAM buffers, it is faster than writing it to the scratch disk. Yet others say that you still need a big, fast scratch disk, so I will have one of those, too, even though I don’t attend church just in case Hell is real.
Can the Mac Pro use all 32GB? Yes. We took a 500MB RAW photo that had been edited in Photoshoph CS3 (adding 31 layers). When we ran it through the Retouch Artists’ Benchmark, the memory usage rose to 31 GB, according to Activity Monitor.
Does anyone know if PS 64 bit will run faster than 32 bit is faster the benefit from 64 bit?
After all the 64 bit version will be the first release of 64 bit version. So will history repeat itself and the first version have problems or will it be trouble free and the answer to stable running and freedom from the SBOD.
Stay tune to the next episode of "This Is Your Computer!" ( The Saga Continues )
Probably won’t make a difference as was the case with the intel chips and 8 cores as opposed to 4 cores though it will make some difference.
I just had my 23" Apple Display repaired. After two years it had started to have what looked like a run or some kind of seepage around the left and top edge. Apple seems to have done a great job. It’s just like new.
Interesting that with my newly repaired Apple Display, when I attempted to calibrate it this morning I discovered that I cannot get it to reach the recommended target. I’m not complaining because my newly repaired display is very crisp and everything looks great, and I know that in time it will begin to darken on it’s own… so I would not necessarily change anything, but found it interesting.
Recommended target with the lights out is 85.0.
112.3 cd/m^2 is as low as my display will go at this time.
Now you will be able to see the images the way other people see it they are too light.
And you won’t be telling other people how to adjust their images when you don’t know how to adjust your own.
Well maybe you won’t talk about matters you don’t understand maybe!
BTW Apple has a reputation of showing nice sharp crisp display but not be really good for a color managed work flow. Not the best choice when it is optimized for video and not print.
Two different animal, great looking and accurate are two different animals.
Your display will not get darker i will die out more then likely when the extended care expires. Apple has a way of doing this. Where as NEC, LaCie, SONY, Eizo and a few others will go for a very long time.
Apple just pushes the specifications of the monitors to give he appearance of wonderful saturated colors and the monitors can take that for very long.
Thanks for the info. I used the System Brightness Control rather than the manual one. It does seem to go light and dark with the System Preference Controls. Do you still think it’s broken?
Linda
Wade,
Your images were coming across dark before I had my monitor repaired. Still, I’m sure it might be a problem with me and my assessment. One thing I can promise, I never meant to offend you with that question about your images being dark. I thought it might help. I have no right to tell you what to do though… and I definitely am far beneath your skills when it comes to photography. Yes, I do hope that I continue to learn. At least I try to. I say this in all sincerity.
Screen-brightness recommendations may vary by manufacturer:
NEC’s SpectrView software offers several suggested pre-sets for different purposes or you can set your own parameters and the NEC/GreytagMacbeth puck then sets it up for you.
These are some of their recommendations:
Broadcast Video = Maximum Possible (with White pt.=D65; Gamma 2.2)
European Proofing: Intensity = 85.0 cd/m2 (with White pt.=D75; Gamma 1.8)
I actually Profile to: Intensity = 130.0 cd/m2 (with White pt.=D65; Gamma 2.2)
which seems to provide good all-round conditions for Photo-editing, Web Viewing, Epson Printing and Offset Proofing.
My guess is that Wade may have his monitor set for "Maximum Possible" Intensity which is why his images seemed dark to so many of us? And why other people’s images seem to be too light when viewed on his monitor?
Great job on the various display scenarios. Thank you for that! I’m not familiar with Maximum Possible Intensity. Must be a feature with the newer and/or better displays.
It’s just the way that the SpectraView software works.
If you set it manually on this monitor, you can set Intensity at any value up to 410.0 cd/m2 (which is the "Maximum Possible" that is used by the Broadcast Video target).
If you set it manually on this monitor, you can set Intensity at any value up to 410.0 cd/m2 (which is the "Maximum Possible" that is used by the Broadcast Video target).
Interesting. I suppose it has it’s place, and also it’s limitations.
It’s just a question of calibrating a monitor to its optimum for the User’s purposes.
The trouble with the Internet is that we have no control over the way that our Viewers have calibrated and profiled their monitors (or even if they have done it all!) and neither do we have any control over the kind of monitor that they might be using and whether it is a regular sRGB monitor or a Wide-Spectrum Adobe RGB Display.
Which takes us back to Apple and Adobe being so derelict in their duties in regards to Apple using Monitor Space instead of sRGB for its default space; and Adobe continuing to sell non-Color-Managed Flash.
Sidebar: Unfortunately, most folks sitting in front of their computers have no clue what color calibration is. And they just look at you funny when you mention it. Photographers, graphics professionals (and those others dealing with critical color, brightness and contrast) are often the only ones who care.
And when folks buy their HDTVs, how many are going to spend the time and/or money to color-calibrate them?
For print matching the "correct" setting for display luminance is based on the environmental conditions under which the display and print will be viewed. Basically the "brightness" of the display should match the light reflecting off a print. A good average starting point is to set the luminous to something around 120 cd/m2 and native white point if software allows it (if not native 6500 Kelvin). Calibrate to a gamma of 2.2 or native gamma of the display as there will be less banding overall than trying to force the display to 1.8 gamma or 2.8 gamma.
The above will also work well for web viewing too.
120 is actually a bit too dingy for my working environment.
As I said before, I actually Profile my "AdobeRGB Wide-gamut" NEC2690WUXi to: Intensity = 130.0 cd/m2 (with White pt.=D65; Gamma 2.2) and that seems to work very well for me.
I have started to calibrate with the lights off to avoid the ambient light problem I had before, and then turn the lights off when I do any critical color corrections. I think it was Phil or Allen who at one time said they do their color corrections in the dark. Whoever it was, I am grateful for that piece of advice.
Because I use the Spyder2Pro, I allow the software and the device to measure the ambient light, and then guide me to the right settings. The settings I was trying to match this morning were those recommended by the software once it reached that point in the calibration process. Based on the recommendations here, being so much higher, I wonder if I might be going about this wrong.
I shouldn’t respond but I will of course Ann is wrong again I have my monitor set at gamma 2.2 and I sometimes calibrate the screen using the apple calibration software and sometimes using the Eye One Both work out exactly the same.
The Eizo display they say automatically adjusts to the ambient light so I read somewhere but I do not know if this is possible it would be a good feature.
However I did observe Ann’s display and if she recalls mentioned I thought it was quite dark and very saturated. Of course Ann is concerned about the commercial appearances of her images and I am concerned about neutral.
But her screen is way dark, there is no doubt about it I did not think a LCD could be that dark.
Just as a matter of interest, to what intensity (in terms of cd/m2) have you set your Monitor.
My guess is that you are running your screen at Maximum Brightness. And how does the screen image compare to the output from your printer?
(I think that we are all using Gamma 2.2 and D65 but Screen-brightness (intensity) is what we do differently.)
Re: The Apple updates: I intend to hold off from the Security for a week or so; and from the QT one indefinitely because QT updates since 7.4.5 disable my DVD drive and I don’t want to take the trouble to install a new one!
Re: The Apple updates: I intend to hold off from the Security for a week or so; and from the QT one indefinitely because QT updates since 7.4.5 disable my DVD drive and I don’t want to take the trouble to install a new one!
Thanks for responding. I have been having unusual issues with my OS recently so I am inclined to run the Security Update.
and from the QT one indefinitely because QT updates since 7.4.5 disable my DVD drive and I don’t want to take the trouble to install a new one!
I’ve used replacement internal Pioneer DVD CD/DVD/DVD-DL drives in my G5 tower, each running smoothly under Toast (now v.9) management. QuickTime updates have not seemed to affect it.
As you note you prefer and then chose what you prefer and that is based solely on your own judgement.
Ann when to talk about definitive issues and you interject your preference that is not definitive that is simply a question of taste. Your concept of accurate color based on commercial standards you think are correct and then fine tune further to your taste oh com’on that’s just playing with the dials. As I mentioned many times the prints output the same and the files display the same on the screens that the lab has, there is a small difference between the color on my screen and theirs but it is very subtle.
They have Eight stations and I have never had a problem and I send the files around the world, the whole entire planet, you do not. And they reproduce consistently over the whole planet.
Does that tell you anything?
Your screen is way too dark, which might help your eyes but it is still too dark and way too saturated and your color has no relationship to reality usually. Sometimes it is good but I would think if you saw it on my screen you would say it was not saturated enough etc.
And Linda might want to check out her your sight, I she is a little colored blind and sees magenta and red bias as neutral.
I had an acquaintance who did color printing for a living, his prints was always a slight bit magenta or red and he always use to tell me my color was off. I would always argue with him that I thought it was just a matter of taste until his friends told me he had been tested for color blindness and that he had a problem with magenta and red.
So when ever I see this same thing in people like Linda it reminds me of him and I suggest they might want to find out. I understand finding out helped him because now he can adjust it. He still is always a bit red or magenta but I think his clients just like that look and why they hire him.
In other words it is not a question of being accurate it is a question of preference. In Ann’s case you have stated many times but prefer it. And so I think you should keep it at that.
And certainly your screen and Linda’s screen are way different.
Perhaps brightness is not adjustable on an Eizo but it is on the NEC2690 and ithe user can either use one of the provided presets (of which I posted the details previously; or set the parameters that you want from within the Spectraview software (which is provided with the Monitor) and then the Puck controls the resulting calibration and monitor Profiling.
If Eizo make no provision for adjustment of Monitor Intensity, then you are running at Maximum Brightness (which is what I suspected).
NEC recommends the use of different intensities (depending on the kind of work that the User is doing) and 130 cd/M2 is suitable for the ambient light in my office.
I am not touching any dials as you indicate when you write: "and then fine tune further to your taste oh com’on that’s just playing with the dials".
The entire calibration and profiling is done automatically by the provided NEC SpectraView software and the Graytag/Macbeth puck.
Wade, argue as much as you like but a host of other people (in addition to Linda and me!) have stated that they find that your images display too darkly on their monitors.
All I can tell you is that my Epson prints accurately mirror what I see on my monitor; and PDFs prepared on this machine for Press output, reproduce similarly when sent to national publications for DTP Offset printing without any additional "tweaking" by the publication.
(They do not tweak customer-provided files these days your file goes directly to Press and you get exactly what you submit!).
I suggest that, under most Office ambient lighting conditions, screen intensities above 140 cd/M2 are probably too bright to give a reasonable prediction of how the files will reproduce when Printed.
If you are preparing images purely for Video purposes your current 400 cd/M2 (which I am fairly sure is what you are using) would be correct but it would produce a totally misleading viewing experience for anyone who prepares work for Print.
It is not "nonsense" but an educated guess because you still have NOT told us at what intensity you are actually running your Eizo CE.
But perhaps you either don’t know the answer; or the brightness of those Eizo CE Monitors cannot be adjusted to suit the user’s ambient lighting conditions?
I run my 2690 at the same settings as Ann but have my brightness at a lower 110cd/m2.
If I was to stare out of a window on a bright day and than look at my monitor it does look dark and dingy as you commented. However when using the screen the brains perception of the colour and brightness adjusts as you eyes get used to the darker screen.
The proof of the profile is not how you think it looks but if the output matches the screen.
Mine does and so does Anns at these dingy setting so what’s your issue here?
The proof of the profile is not how you think it looks but if the output matches the screen.
And so if my output matches my screen as i have stated so many times that means nothing except that bedcause she finds my images not to be to her taste then I am wrong.
If my work is reproduced around the world consistently and Ann produces her work basically by probably the same printer then she is correct.
Well that doesn’t fly does it? Good for you if you get consistent out put from your sources your inkjet and printing outlet I still have my work distributed world wide and have very little problems with the reproduction and most of the art directors that handle my images are thrill with the files.
So I do not see how a couple or a few individuals who have limited distribution are going to be correct because they have a certain strange preference.
Also the idea that you should have you screen adjusted so that when viewing a print with ambient light and the print located near the screen there should somehow be a mating of the two is a bit weird and certainly not the industry standard when you should be viewing the print on a view station. The print has to be viewed under an industry standard light and not your ambient light source. If your screen matches what you see on the viewing table then you are in the right ball park, not under you ambient light.
In other words don’t tell me my business because you definitely do not know it.
Not trying to tell you your business, I don’t even know what it is apart from your work being published worldwide!!
The tone of your post seems to be your way is correct and the fact a couple of people who question your setup have no valid point as you assume they only use a desktop printer to match their work. Who is telling who about their business?
A little story about me….
Before the 2690 I used Apple monitors and did not calibrate brightness levels. People loved my work but until I questioned people of my imaging practice it uncovered that a particular international client had some comments about shots being too dark. They never mentioned it before and just corrected them before going to print.
That’s it, nothing bad about you Wade, just a cautionary tale.
They tell me they are very happy with the images and the files and I do not use Apple monitors.
You are very presumptuous, you say you know nothing of my work or me but presume to correct.
Don’t you find something wrong with that?
I’m an architectural photographer the images are reproduced in very high quality publications in the U.S. Europe, Japan and on occasion in Africa. OK so you had an international client, so what where were they parties you work for located over seas or around the corner.
Do you really think that 30 or 40 entities in all these places are correcting my images and getting consistent results because the files are so dark that they are unusable.
You are telling me my business without as you say actually even knowing what I do.
You can’t really expect that your perception about something you have no knowledge of could be correct based on your own experience which may or may not relate to what I do?
How could yopuy possibly correct someone without knowing what they do or have done.
Just because you had a bad experience doesn’t mean it is my problem, it is or was your problem. I’m happy for you if you found a solution, bless you.
BTW my work appears in books magazines brochures posters website exhibits etc. They are handled by many people and I have no control over what they do with them but they are consistent reproduced.
In the case of Ann she is the only one that deals with the images she does not distribute her work to third parties so her consistency is dependent on her consistency and not necessarily the consistency and accuracy of her method. She is basically the only one that has to be happy. And her clients rely on her judgement.
I contribute to an online publication regularly and though in this case I am basically helping them build their reputation and credential I have found that about 2/3 of the time the professionals who work I have photographed, in this case architects will purchase the images or other publications will contact me to do work for them. I think if they thought the images were too dark they would not react this way.
Ann for instance is concerned about marketing and advertising requirements not necessarily about accuracy. She once adjusted an image I posted of Grand Central Station that made the space look very bright, California sunshine bright. When I pointed out that Grand Central Station is not bright everyone claimed that was not important, to them if it were not a certain level sparkling sunny then it was not properly exposed.
Ann agreed that Grand Central Station was not real bright but that it was a question again of marketing requirements even though I had no marketing requirements to address. I was concern in capturing the ambience and nature of the place.
Everyone else who read the tread insisted that this was wrong you have to make the subject something it is not in order to be successful at photography.
My clients are very happy and really love the work and look forward to working with me all the time and the publications i contribute to love it as well so I guess that is the bottom line.
And I am glad you have overcome your problems, so more success to you. And I hope one day Ann will not have to concern herself about Modern Marketing requirements and leave the color be. That is a very interesting color on the golden gate bridge I did not know that it had ever been painted vermillion.
If we can make the world look a little more beautiful, is it really such a bad idea to do so?
Nice way to put it. 🙂
I am happy to say that, thanks to Ann sending the DiskWarrior update link my way, I was able to successfully run DiskWarrior for the first time on this G5 and have it actually do the necessary repairs. I’ve been using this setup for probably close to 2 years without being able to get my previous version of DiskWarrior to complete the repairs.
All I can say is that I am so thankful that DW 4.1 worked for you because I very much fear that another kind of "Bomb" was heading rapidly in your direction!
I don’t want to enter into a ‘tit for tat’ argument with you Wade. You abviously cannot accept a friendly suggestion about what potentially could be an issue with a monitor you use.
May Grand Central Station continue to be Gloomy and uncoloured….
I do not know where the thread went about Open GL and older cards but there is a plug in available free from Adobe that will allow PS CS4 read the older cards and may allow the open GL features work with it.
Just ordered a second Western Digital WD10000CSRTL Caviar GP (Green Power) internal SATA drive for my Mac Pro. 1 TB dead quiet 7200 RPM. 3 year warranty & claims to use less electricity. Only $150.
1 TB dead quiet 7200 RPM. 3 year warranty & claims to use less electricity. Only $150.
100,000 times larger than my first consumer hard drive that cost ~US$1400 for 10 MB, 1985 dollars. A joy, no more constant 400k disk swapping. And as a bonus a hands-on introduction to the black art of SCSI.
I recall WD had some negative press a while back, but these drives are fast, cool, silent & huge, & I have seen a number of good reviews. I was mainly looking for quiet drives, & these get very good marks in that respect.
Which would be more efficient for Photoshop? When my new 1 TB drive arrives, should I use it for Photoshop’s scratch disk? My alternative would be to migrate my boot system to the new drive, & use the OEM 320 GB boot drive for the scratch disk. Is 320 GB of blank HD space sufficient for most Photoshop purposes? Which needs the extra headroom more – Leopard or PS scratch? My file storage is on another drive entirely.
I would partition the drive. Either one and make the first partition scratch. the size of the partition will depend on the size of the files you work on. I’d make mine about 100GB. the first partition is the fastest part of the drive.
OK, my OS & Apps only take up about 11% of the OEM 320 GB drive, so maybe I will leave that as is. I will partition the new terabyte drive, with 100 GB PS Scratch as partition #1. The remainder will house my various non-Time Machine backups, meaning clones of my boot system and storage drives, that do not compete with Photoshop. I have another 1 TB drive entirely devoted to Time Machine, which completes my backup strategy. I should be all set for years to come with this arrangement, considering I also have a another 640 GB drive devoted entirely to file storage.
The importance of the drive is one the size but is the size of the buffer if it is a 32MB buffer it will be much faster than one with 16MB. Making a RAId 0 with two such drives which can be partitioned but odes not have is also a good way to speed things up if you use it as a scratch.
Important if you are a Mac Pro or other MacIntel you will find PS CS4 speedier and more responsive then CS3 which was very responsive as well.
I am removing the two internal hard drives from my old G4DP since it doesn’t seem to work any more. I have files on these hard drives that I need to retrieve.
What would be the best way to to get these drives up and running outside the computer?
Basically for down and dirty file transfers or diagnostics. Kit includes connectors for laptop drives 2.5′ or desktop 3.5′ IDE hard drives or SATA hard disk. There is no need to temporarily install a hard drive in a enclosure.
I purchased for about $9.00 with shipping. eBay might have it for that price.
Avoid this company (Cool Drives) I ordered last year from them and never received the product. Their excuse was they were on vacation.
Are the drives from your G4 Mirror ata or sata? Don’t know much about the Icy Dock…on Amazon there is a mixed review of it…it’s been around since 2006.
John, Thanks for the heads up on Cool Drives and Icy Dock. I don’t know for sure but I assume the drives are SATA. I’ll know better once I get them out of the G4.
My QuickSilver drives are ATA, your mirrored G4 came right after that so it’s a toss up! If your G4 is still running you can go the system profiler to find what drives are installed.
If your G4 is still running you can go the system profiler to find what drives are installed.
The G4 doesn’t seem to be running anymore. It’s the one with the silver door. I’ll be sure to check it out tomorrow. I had trouble getting the hard drives out tonight and getting tired anyway.
Thanks Ramón. Guess I should have known that. This is why I like to post before making decisions. You guys always seem to point me in the right direction. Much appreciated!
Linda, that’s why I would get a couple of FWD enclosures they are made to hold ATA SATA and IDE drives. This would allow you to install your drives from the G4 and use them If and when you buy some Bigger drives you can install those in you G5 transfer the info to the SATA and put the drive you take out of the G5 in one of the enclosures. Its always handy to be able to have an extra enclosure or two around. they are very easy to remove and replace drives in.
I was running my Test systems Tiger and Leopard from a SATA drive in the enclosure.
Linda, that’s why I would get a couple of FWD enclosures they are made to hold ATA SATA and IDE drives. This would allow you to install your drives from the G4 and use them If and when you buy some Bigger drives you can install those in you G5 transfer the info to the SATA and put the drive you take out of the G5 in one of the enclosures. Its always handy to be able to have an extra enclosure or two around. they are very easy to remove and replace drives in.
Buko, I’m leaning this way for the same reasons. I wonder if I could even switch my external G-Drives to one of these multi-housing units to help keep things all in one place, ie less clutter.
I don’t have time to reconfigure things so I probably should keep it simple for now.
Will John’s Cable Set <http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=207655867> work with the ATA Drive? If so, I might just go ahead with this for the time being since it’s cheap and should at least give me access to the files I need.
Even getting one housing would help you out Linda plug in the drive you need and there is your info you don’t need to copy the info from the drive and clog up your current drives.
Okay, I’ve placed an order. Looks like you both win on this one. 🙂
I went with a Cable set as well as an enclosure. I ordered through Amazon.com though because I have an account with them and needed to add some other items to my order.
Macally – ECO-350UA – USB2.0/FireWire 1394A Enclosure for 3.5" HDD
Sabrent USB-DSC5 Serial ATA or IDE 2.5-/3.5-Inch to USB 2.0 Cable Converter Adapter with Power Supply
Thanks for making it easier for me to make an educated decision!
I’m not an expert on the best machine for what, but I should think that any MacPro with enough memory should be able to handle your files. I often use big file, close to 1GB on my older G5 Quad.
On another note, I am quite disturbed at the changes in Flash CS4. I don’t have time to figure out why Adobe changed the way imported QT videos are rendered but it’s all different now. I’m going back to CS3 until I have time to find out what and why things have changed. I am not sure this upgrade is serving my best interests. 🙁
Sorry you’re not getting any answers. I have no experience with 10.5.6 as yet. I bought my husband a MacBook Pro for Christmas so I may experiment with CS4 on his setup after Dec. 25.
Little late. . but Linda, I’ve purchased a few enclosures form Cooldrives without any issues. The only drawback is they often have items on their site that are not in stock. So be sure to check that specifically. It’ll say it on the product page.
Jobs is history, maybe the company will quit building computers.
I do hope (and pray) that Steve Jobs will make a full recovery… for his sake. He is a man who had a unique vision which has been fulfilled. He stands alone as a pioneer of sorts, and I would like to see him live a long and meaningful life… even beyond Apple.
But then of course we Apple users would not want Apple to quit building computers. Hopefully there is a team in place who can carry on with Steve’s vision, whatever the future holds. If not I suppose we will all adapt to newer (or perhaps older) ways.
I for one am indebted and grateful for the vision and tenacity of Steve Jobs and his team.
Well, Steve Jobs is out for several months on a health sabbatical. If you had to take several months off from work for health reasons, do you think that all your friends and family would believe that you’re going to be out for the rest of your life on disability?
Apple has wisely moved into a number of product areas. Areas with greatest profits are the consumer-level products and services. Higher end desktop computers do not sell enough product for Apple to succeed on them alone.
Apple has wisely moved into a number of product areas. Areas with greatest profits are the more consumer-level products and services. Higher end desktop computers do not sell enough product for Apple to succeed on them alone.
High end desktop computers are a niche market. I don’t see Apple abandoning that market, but it won’t be a driving marketing force for them, when iPods, iPhones, laptops, iMacs, iTunes, and the like bringing in the money.
Before this thread begins to float away (the thread title begins with 2008 and were in 2009 now), I’d like to ask for a recommendation of a two-button wired muse with scroll wheel that you have used on your and liked it.
I don’t want more buttons than two, nor squeezable sides, nor a wireless mouse (unless it doesn’t require batteries ;)).
Personally, I find wired muses to be a pain in the neck. They’re hot, they’re cold, they’re hungry …. I greatly prefer my muse to be in a mellow state where creativity can flourish more freely. 😉
For a wired mouse, I use a Kensignton, Mouse in a Box Optical Elite.
It’s simple, cheap ($20), very comfortable, and the driver software is excellent. The last time I researched a replacement mouse, I tried everything including the high end expensive jobs. Many of them were great, but the software was terrible. The MouseWorks software than come with Kensignton mice is highly customizable, allowing for a fine degree of tuning, which to me is just as important as the mouse itself.
It has 5 buttons (two on the side and the scroll wheel), but they can be disabled.
Thank you, Phil. However, I’m afraid even disabled side buttons would bug me no end.
I’ve tried a cheap wired Dynex USB mouse I bought for a Windoze laptop and it works OK on my Mac, but the two little metallic buttons on the side make me very nervous. :/
A wired muse is better than no muse at all B), but a wired mouse doesn’t frustrate me by having its battery die on me in the middle of the night like wireless devices do.
Well, I’m not going to try and convince you of anything but the side buttons are completely flush with the body. If you didn’t physically look at it, you wouldn’t even know the buttons were there.
Personally, I couldn’t live without the extra button features. I have the sides configured with back and forward actions for web surfing, and the wheel button set up as web page reloading. You also have the ability to configure the buttons differently depending on the app you’re working with. It’s very versatile.
I think I’d slit my wrists if forced to use a one button mouse.
