You could use the line tool to draw a line through the two positions. Since the line tool creates a new layer, you could then delete the layer.
Sergio,
I’m not familiar with the Micrografx product but the Photoshop Elements clone tool should be satisfactory after you’ve gotten used to it.
Elements does show origin and destination marks simultaneously while you are actually cloning (i.e. clicking or draging the cursor) but not when you are merely positioning the cursor. That usually isn’t a problem — you usually have a very precise idea of where you want to clone from and where you want to clone to. Set the origen where you want to clone from and move the cursor to where you want to clone to.
For your application, I would recommend the "precise" cursor rather than the standard or brush size options. The precise curser is a cross hair with a dot at the exact center. You can toggle to the precise cursor using the caps lock key or set it permanently in the preferences.
You should also check to see whether you have the "aligned" box selected in the options bar. If it is checked, the selected origin "floats" but maintains a fixed relationship with the cursor once the first destination point is selected. If it is not checked, the origin point remains fixed where you set it and each click of the destination cursor clones from the original origin. I would think the unchecked option would be better for your usage.
I would also recommend that you create a new empty layer and make it the active layer when you clone (check the "use all layers" option box also). This will prevent your original layer from being altered and make it easier for you to fix cloning errors or try different origins. Simply erase the spot you need to change and clone again, you can even throw away the entire layer and start over. Clicking the "eyeball" visibility for the clone layer on and off gives you the ability to see before and after.
Bob
Bob,
I use the Clone tool all the time, but I just learned from your post how to use it correctly! Never thought of the empty layer trick. Thanks!
Bert
Bob,
Thank you very much for your detailed suggestions. All of them work but the single more important is the use of the precise cursor. I don’t agree with you anyway that the "aligned" box should be unchecked. Keep in mind that the kind of work I’m talking about is, for instance, removing a traffic sign against a stone blocks wall or restoring part of a window by cloning from a similar one in the same picture. When doing that you usually do it in small steps and the aligned feature comes handy (IMHO).
If you never used a package that allow you to see both origin and destination marks when setting the clone tool, you cannot miss it. But if you did you can realize that nothing come close to this handy feature. That’s anyway is Adobe’s fault, not your.
I appreciated very much your help.
An additional benefit to Bob’s suggestion of cloning onto a new, blank layer is that you can MOVE the contents of the layer, as needed, to fine-tune placement.
Byron
Bob,
What Bert said. I’ve never tried using the precise cursor before. Seems like a better way to pick the exact spot to clone. Thanks.
Shan
I too came from Microgafx via Paintshop Pro which also has the same issue as Elements. I found it very useful to see the target and source cursors together all the time. One additional problem I seem to notice which maybe someone can help with is that when the target cursor is being displayed it never changes size to match the source brush. Which makes it a little tricky to judge when to stop cloning.
Colin
Sergio,
Since you are working on retouching buildings, in that situation I mainly clone from an area right next to the to be retouched area. However I choose this spot very carefully.
In most cases I follow the perspective as the light fades in perpective too. In other cases I either choose the tool to be horizontal or vertical. I then carefully drag the clone tool along the same line making sure I stay in that line. Works quite well and fast.
Robert
