Sometimes I am able to use the Magic Wand tool to highlight the area that I want to work with. I usually start out with a low tolerance level and adjust it as required until I am able to get the area that I’m after.
You mentioned that you created a layer of levels. Was this an adjustment layer? If it was just an ordinary layer it will be transparent and the levels will not work.
Mel,
I have had difficulty using selection tools on adjacent dark areas to effect separation. Suggest that you try a mask.
Ken
Mel,
Another approach idea…
Create a new blank layer on the top of the stack in your Layers Palette. In the LP change the Mode. Do this at the topleft where is says Normal, click the drop down arrow and choose Overlay. Set the colors in the toolbox to have white as the foreground color, black as the background. Choose an appropriate brush size and degree of hardness, set the opacity for the tool to about 2%. Now, the area you paint over will lighten by a small amount. Repeat paint strokes until desired lightness is achieved. Can delete layer and start all over it needed or reduce opacity of that layer when finished if desired.
Nancy
Nancy,
That was a cool tip. I have done a little studying on layers, but everything I have read simply tells me to change the type of layer, but nothing explains what the different layer types do. I guess I have got to spend a lot more time experimenting because I don’t know where to get the kind of information that you provided. Thanks.
Jim and Mel,
Using an Overlay Layer is a great way to gently, slowly lighten or darken an image. Painting with black will darken.
edit—I pick up little tidbits like this from perusing the multitudes of tutorials on the internet.
Jim,
I have 5 sources that I refer to frequently:
1. I print out the forum tips that I think may be helpful on letter size paper, file them in a 3-ring binder. I bought a packet of dividers with tabs in Staples, typed in the appropriate labels in Word. Have an orderly file system now
2. 50 Fast Digital Photo Techniques by Gregory Georges
3. Photoshop Elements Solutions by Mikkel Aaland
4. Hidden Power of Photoshop Elements 2 by Richard Lynch
5. Adobe Photoshop Elements – One Click Wow by Davis & Dayton
I, too, like to experiment, but these sources provide me with guidance for my home study course. Ken
Thanks, all, for the info.
Jim
Nancy:
I feel like the village idiot. Layers has me completely baffled. The following are the steps I have taken.
1.Renamed the background layer Layer 0.
2 Made a duplicate layer, layer 1.
3.Made a third layer and changed the mode to Overlay.
4.In toolbox made white foreground color.
5.Selected brush, set opacity for 2%.
6.Painted on the image itself with brush, and brush continued to make the marching ants.
In short, I was not able to lighten the selected area.
All thanks for your patience.
Mel,
It sounds like you’re using the "selection brush tool", when you want to be using the "brush tool".
In the toolbar, the selection brush is the one that’s third from the top. The regular brush is sixth from the top.
HTH,
Byron
That’s undoubtedly the problem, wrong brush, good call Byron.
I am sorry to say that I am still unable to lighten the image. I was incorrect before when I used the selection brush rather than the painting brush. So I tried the painting brush and followed the steps that I outlined in my previous reply, and nothing happened when I tried to paint the image. Before painting I did select the area to be lightened with the selection brush. After selection I then created the overlay and used the paint brush. As I said, nothing happened.
If it would be easier to connect me via e-mail my address is Once agiain I appreciate everyone’s forbearance.
I think I just replicated your problem, and I have something I would like you to try. It may be that for the picture you are working on that the two percent opacity setting is too low. Try moving it up to 15 percent and see if that makes a difference. If that resolves the problem, then adjust the opacity until you get the effect you are looking for.
Yes, 2% is a low setting. You will find however that this effect is best when "built up" by small degrees with repetitive brushing and perhaps changing the size of the brush. I have once used 10% for a very unusual image, but I have found it best to use a very low opacity and repetition, however, it does depend on the image and whatever gives you the results you are looking for is the way to go. I use it for subtle shading (be it lighter or darker). This technique has worked well for me in the instance, for example, of lightening someone’s face which is shadowed because of a hat.
edit: and I do make many passes with the brush. If the effect is a bit too severe, just lower the opacity of the overlay layer.
The only reason I suggested moving the opacity to 15 percent is to see if he can see the effect at that setting. I realize that every picture is an individual setting, but I was just having him do an experiment to see if he can see the effect.
Jim,
That was a good idea, you were correct, I’m sure, in diagnosing his concern. With such a low setting one might indeed wonder if there was any change at all! The results lay in the repetition. I don’t always use 2% either, sometimes 4 or 6.
At last I was able to lighten the part of the image that I wanted to lighten. After much expermintation, I found that 4% opacity worked best for this particular situation.
Thanks to all who have helped with this particular part of my PSE education. When all is said and done, this forum is the best resource available.
Mel,
Good, your perseverance paid off! Experimentation is the name of the game, it is a good learning method. There might be some occassions, when you want to change just part of an image, that using a Levels Adjustment layer and painting on the mask is appropriate.
Click on the blk/white circle at the bottom of the Layers Palette, choose Levels Adjustment Layer (or Hue/Saturation). Adjust any/all of the 3 triangles under the graph with RBG showing in the Levels box. Get the part of the image you want to change looking good without worrying about the rest of the image, you’ll cover that up. To target an individual color, use the drop down arrow next to RBG, and choose one of the colors and play with the sliding triangles. Now set the foreground color in the Tool Box to black, 100% opacity, grab a brush, click on the Adjustment Layer in the LPalette. Wherever you paint with the black, your original colors will be restored. The black on the mask is protecting the area underneath from being affected by the adjustment change. Change the brush’s opacity to partially influence the data beneath, use a feathered brush when you want to have a blended transition between the affected/nonaffected area.
Mel.
I Hesitate to add to this as you have already had a wealth of advice and seem to have found a solution.
I think the the polygon tool was the wrong one, it only does straight lines, probably the magnetic lasso might have been a better choice, if you forced the anchor points where the edge was not clear cut by left clicking you in effect make your own edge, if you go wrong you can always back track by placing the cursor on the last good point and backspace restarting from there.
Regards
Malcolm
The polygonal lasso is what I use most of the time. If you zoom way in and click often those short straight lines will follow curves. Every click of the delete key erases the last anchor point.
Nancy,
That tip about the delete key is a real good one that everyone should have in their memory bank. Even since I learned about it with the magnetic lasso, it has saved me from diaster several times.
Dick
EDIT:
Oh, BTW could you email me at my address? I need to ask you a question and I’d like to do it off the forum. Thanks
