Fuji Frontier generic profile

DF
Posted By
Derek Fountain
Jul 18, 2004
Views
1008
Replies
22
Status
Closed
I was about to take a couple of prints into my local print shop who use a Fuji Frontier 370 Minilab. I’ve been reading up on the process involved in preparing an image, and they all seem to assume that I have a colour profile for the exact machine/paper used. Well, I don’t and I’m not sure I can get one. I’ll ask at the lab tomorrow.

In the meantime, I kind of assumed that a generic profile for the Frontier 370 would be the next best thing, but I can’t find one of those either.

What are my options here?

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N
nomail
Jul 18, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote:

I was about to take a couple of prints into my local print shop who use a Fuji Frontier 370 Minilab. I’ve been reading up on the process involved in preparing an image, and they all seem to assume that I have a colour profile for the exact machine/paper used. Well, I don’t and I’m not sure I can get one. I’ll ask at the lab tomorrow.

In the meantime, I kind of assumed that a generic profile for the Frontier 370 would be the next best thing, but I can’t find one of those either.

The Frontier is set to expect sRGB images, because that is what 99% of all customers will bring.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
TS
The Signatory
Jul 18, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote:
I was about to take a couple of prints into my local print shop who use a Fuji Frontier 370 Minilab. I’ve been reading up on the process involved in preparing an image, and they all seem to assume that I have a colour profile for the exact machine/paper used. Well, I don’t and I’m not sure I can get one. I’ll ask at the lab tomorrow.
In the meantime, I kind of assumed that a generic profile for the Frontier 370 would be the next best thing, but I can’t find one of those either.

What are my options here?

G’day!
Colab in the UK offer their Fuji 370 ICC profile for softproofing. You can get a copy here:
http://www.colab.co.uk/digital/colour.html and select the link ‘ICC Profiles’. A javascript window will then open with the link contained in a spiel about colour management. If for any reason you still can’t d/load it, then give us a shout and I’ll email it.

HTH


Kind regards

Nigel
(Pommy b’stard!)
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 18, 2004
The Frontier is set to expect sRGB images, because that is what 99% of all customers will bring.

That would imply that the profile I just downloaded (thanks to those who pointed – Google let me down!) is just a renamed version of the sRGB profile. A little experimentation with soft proofing shows that the sRGB and Fuji profiles are very similar in most areas except for blue. Changing the soft proof profile changes the colour of the sky on my test image quite notably.
N
nomail
Jul 18, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote:

The Frontier is set to expect sRGB images, because that is what 99% of all customers will bring.

That would imply that the profile I just downloaded (thanks to those who pointed – Google let me down!) is just a renamed version of the sRGB profile.

No. it does not. It only means that the Frontier is set to get the best results with sRGB images. So if you cannot get hold of a Frontier profile, use sRGB.

The Frontier profile is a device specific profile however, sRGB is an abstract color space. The chance that the Frontier is EXACTLY the same as sRGB is vertually zero. It’s always better to use a device specific profile if you have one.

BTW, do not forget that you still do not have a profile of the Frontier *you* use! You only have a profile of *one particular* Frontier. It may be a better option that using sRGB, but that is not true by definition. If your lab uses different paper and/or different chemistry in its Frontier, the results may still be quite different.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 18, 2004
That would imply that the profile I just downloaded (thanks to those who pointed – Google let me down!) is just a renamed version of the sRGB profile.

No. it does not. It only means that the Frontier is set to get the best results with sRGB images. So if you cannot get hold of a Frontier profile, use sRGB.

Oh, yes. I’m with you. :o}

The Frontier profile is a device specific profile however, sRGB is an abstract color space. The chance that the Frontier is EXACTLY the same as sRGB is vertually zero. It’s always better to use a device specific profile if you have one.

I’ve now found 2 profiles for the Frontier 370. Soft proofing suggests they are slightly different.

BTW, do not forget that you still do not have a profile of the Frontier *you* use!

Yes, I understand. The machine I’ll be using isn’t in the DryCreek database so I have to go with generic. I’m going to get 3 sets of prints done: one for each of the Frontier Profiles I have, and an sRGB set. I suspect this experiment will just end up providing me with more information but it could be interesting nevertheless.
N
neon
Jul 18, 2004
http://drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/FrontierDatabase.htm
"The Signatory" wrote in message
Derek Fountain wrote:
I was about to take a couple of prints into my local print shop who use a Fuji Frontier 370 Minilab. I’ve been reading up on the process involved in preparing an image, and they all seem to assume that I have a colour profile for the exact machine/paper used. Well, I don’t and I’m not sure I can get one. I’ll ask at the lab tomorrow.
In the meantime, I kind of assumed that a generic profile for the Frontier 370 would be the next best thing, but I can’t find one of those either.

What are my options here?

G’day!
Colab in the UK offer their Fuji 370 ICC profile for softproofing. You can get a copy here:
http://www.colab.co.uk/digital/colour.html and select the link ‘ICC Profiles’. A javascript window will then open with the link contained in a spiel about colour management. If for any reason you still can’t d/load it, then give us a shout and I’ll email it.

HTH


Kind regards

Nigel
(Pommy b’stard!)

N
nomail
Jul 18, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote:

The Frontier profile is a device specific profile however, sRGB is an abstract color space. The chance that the Frontier is EXACTLY the same as sRGB is vertually zero. It’s always better to use a device specific profile if you have one.

I’ve now found 2 profiles for the Frontier 370. Soft proofing suggests they are slightly different.

That’s what I’d expect.

BTW, do not forget that you still do not have a profile of the Frontier *you* use!

Yes, I understand. The machine I’ll be using isn’t in the DryCreek database so I have to go with generic. I’m going to get 3 sets of prints done: one for each of the Frontier Profiles I have, and an sRGB set. I suspect this experiment will just end up providing me with more information but it could be interesting nevertheless.

Indeed. The results *should* be very similar, but you’d be surprised what some labs can do to screw up their settings! 😉


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 18, 2004
neon wrote:

http://drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/FrontierDatabase.htm

Yeah, but they don’t have one for the the machine I’m going to use (or in fact any in Perth). If the boss of the lab is in tomorrow I’ll make sure he knows about DryCreek.
B
bhilton665
Jul 18, 2004
From: Derek Fountain

I’m going to get 3 sets of prints done: one
for each of the Frontier Profiles I have, and an sRGB set. I suspect this experiment will just end up providing me with more information but it could be interesting nevertheless.

Hey Derek, I’m sure a lot of us would be interested in hearing if you see any differences in these.

As mentioned, very few of the people who use these labs even know what an ICC profile is and have no idea how to convert to it. Most of their cameras default to sRGB so that’s what the labs expect. Would be interesting to hear if you see any differences between sRGB and the converted files 🙂

Bill
T
Tom
Jul 18, 2004
"Derek Fountain" wrote in message
neon wrote:

http://drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/FrontierDatabase.htm

Yeah, but they don’t have one for the the machine I’m going to use (or in fact any in Perth). If the boss of the lab is in tomorrow I’ll make sure
he
knows about DryCreek.

Then download the test targets from Dry Creek and have them printed up. It is free, how hard can that be?

It won’t help you tomorrow, but then neither will any generic 370 profile as they are, in my experience, variable to say the least.

For now, just use sRGB and look at the output. For real control, print the Dry Creek targets and have Nathan profile the printer for you.

Tom
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 19, 2004
Then download the test targets from Dry Creek and have them printed up. It is free, how hard can that be?

I was under the impression they’d stopped doing that?

http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/Targets/TargetPreparat ion.htm
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 19, 2004
That would imply that the profile I just downloaded (thanks to those who pointed – Google let me down!) is just a renamed version of the sRGB profile.

No. it does not. It only means that the Frontier is set to get the best results with sRGB images. So if you cannot get hold of a Frontier profile, use sRGB.

The Frontier profile is a device specific profile however, sRGB is an abstract color space. The chance that the Frontier is EXACTLY the same as sRGB is vertually zero. It’s always better to use a device specific profile if you have one.

Having had chance to sleep on this, I’m still a bit puzzled. There’s a colour space in Photoshop called sRGB IEC61996-2.1 which I understand isn’t a real profile, but a "fits nothing quite perfectly" abstract colour space.

Q1) Is that colour space the same one as the images from my digital camera (which tags images as "sRGB")? Or are there "flavours" of sRGB?

Q2) Assuming the answer to Q1 is that there is only one definition of sRGB, why isn’t the generic Frontier just a copy of sRGB? That is, why can’t the machine be calibrated so its idea of colour is identical to that of sRGB? I understand that each machine would ideally still have a specific profile to adjust for local conditions (temperature, etc.). I guess it’s a case of changing the universe to fit the equation, but as a generic starting point, wouldn’t having the machine really set to sRGB be best for all those people taking sRGB images in?

What, in short, is the difference between having a Frontier "set to get the best results with sRGB images", as you say, and actually setting the machine so its profile actually *is* sRGB?
N
nomail
Jul 19, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote:

What, in short, is the difference between having a Frontier "set to get the best results with sRGB images", as you say, and actually setting the machine so its profile actually *is* sRGB?

You cannot "calibrate a machine to sRGB". What you can do is set the machine to match sRGB as closely as it can, but there will always be differences between the abstract sRGB color space and the actual color space that a Frontier can handle. The Frontier profile describes that actual color space. That’s why the Frontier profile can be *very close* to sRGB, but the chance that it is an *exact copy* is very small.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
B
bhilton665
Jul 19, 2004
From: Derek Fountain

Having had chance to sleep on this, I’m still a bit puzzled.

If you want to invest in a book I’d suggest "Real World Color Management" by Fraser, Murphy, Bunting or "Real World Photoshop" by Fraser and Blatner. Couple of good chapters on CM in the second book, and the first one covers pretty much the entire field well.

There’s a colour space in Photoshop called sRGB IEC61996-2.1 which I understand isn’ta real profile, but a "fits nothing quite perfectly" abstract

colour space.

There are actually several kinds of profiles. Ones for a specific monitor or scanner of printer/paper/ink combo are called "device specific". Then there are abstract ones like sRGB, AdobeRGB and Ektaspace that don’t match to any specific device but instead define a gamut range that encompasses various device types or targets. Roughly, sRGB was meant to match the average uncalibrated monitor, AdobeRGB was I think originally matched to HDTV (according to "Photoshop Artistry" author Barry Haynes), Ektaspace is wider and tries to match the gamut of Ektrachrome color slide film. You can make your own custom working space very easily in Photoshop if you want something else, it’s simple to do, and you can name it ‘Derek-Space’ :).

The advantage of using an abstract space as your working space is that it’s grey-balanced (device specific profiles MIGHT be but rarely are) and it’s perceptually linear. This helps in editing. Then when you’re ready to output to a particular device you can convert to that profile to get the best match between the two dissimilar gamuts. Usually you pick a working space to encompass the gamuts of the devices you plan on outputting to.

Q1) Is that colour space the same one as the images from my digital camera (which tags images as "sRGB")? Or are there "flavours" of sRGB?

Same.

Q2) Assuming the answer to Q1 is that there is only one definition of sRGB, why isn’t the generic Frontier just a copy of sRGB? That is, why can’t the machine be calibrated so its idea of colour is identical to that of sRGB?

Each device has its own gamut or range of colors it can reproduce. For sure the Frontier can reproduce many more shades of colors (has a wider gamut) than sRGB. As a gray-balanced example, in sRGB if R=G=B then you have a shade of gray by definition … but if you get a proof color reading from say 127/127/127 from a typical inkjet profile it will be something wildly different.

as a generic starting point, wouldn’t having the machine really set to sRGB be best for all those people taking sRGB images in?

They just assume the input files are sRGB and then convert them when they print. In theory they could convert from any profile (AdobeRGB or a wide gamut one like Ektaspace) but they are trying to automate everything to the lowest common denominator like the one-hour C-41 photo print places they’ve largely replaced, and sRGB is the lowest common denominator.

What, in short, is the difference between having a Frontier "set to get the best results with sRGB images", as you say, and actually setting the machine so its profile actually *is* sRGB?

It’s not possible to set the machine so it "is" sRGB since the printer has its own native gamut or range of colors. Probably there are a couple of shades in sRGB the printer can’t match, and there are thousands of shades the printer can print that are out of gamut for sRGB. The best you can do is convert to the actual profile that matches the printer.

"Real World Color Management" is highly recommended.

Bill
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 20, 2004
In the meantime, I kind of assumed that a generic profile for the Frontier 370 would be the next best thing, but I can’t find one of those either.

I suspect a lot of people are fed up of my honking about colour management these days, but I thought I’d finish the story, both for the benefit of people who are still interested and for those who might someday find this thread via google or similar and are considering treading the same path.

I downloaded a generic Fuji Frontier profile from here:

http://www.popphoto.com/article.asp?section_id=4&article _id=480

then another one from here:

http://www.colab.co.uk/digital/colour_management/icc.html

I didn’t know the difference at the time, but it appears they are for different paper types. The first is for Fuji Crystal Archive paper, the second for what appears to be a paper named something like "Lustre".

I got 3 photos, all in sRGB colour space from my camera. One is a shot of a walking trail here in Western Australia and consists mostly of reddish coloured soil and rock. The second is a shot taken from a boat at sea and is mostly light blue water. The third is a park scene in England and is mostly green trees and grass.

I converted each photo 3 times, according to this page:

http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Frontier/using_printer_profiles .htm

Each photo was converted to sRGB (which it already was, but I did the conversion anyway), then each of the 2 Fuji profiles. I had all 9 photos printed at a lab on a Fuji Frontier 370 with no colour corrections. The lab used Crystal Archive paper, so all other things being equal, that profile should have been the best. (Of course, all others things are not equal, as has been pointed out in this thread.) I then printed each photo on my Epson895, allowing Photoshop to do the colour management and having the printer driver set to no colour adjustments.

Laying the photos out for comparison shows the following:

1) The reddish photos from the Frontier are all just about identical. I have to study them very carefully to find any areas which look even slightly different. The photo from my Epson is more heavily saturated in the reds, perhaps by about 15%.

2) The bluish photos from the Frontier are all notably different. The sRGB one has the water as really quite deep blue, while the other two are closer to each other. The blues are still notably different though. The photo from my Epson is again more heavily saturated than any of the Frontier ones. It’s not as overcooked as with the reds in the other photo, but it’s still maybe 8% more saturated than the Crystal Archive profiled one.

3) The green photos from the Frontier are all very similar, bordering on the identical. They mostly differ in the yellowish areas where sunlight is hitting the grass. Once again, the Epson photo is over saturated. The greens are deeper by about 8%.

The real question is how do the photos look against their soft proof versions on my supposedly (Adobe Gamma) calibrated monitor? I compared the Fuji Crystal Archive print and the Epson print for each photo. The answers:

1) The red Fuji photo is pretty good. Subjectively about 90% accurate. The Epson print is way off – the reds are far too saturated as usual. I gave it 70%.

2) The bluish photo from the Fuji is pretty close to spot on. I gave it 95%. The Epson version is also pretty good – 90% accurate.

3) The green photo from the Fuji is very good. I gave that 92%. The Epson’s greens are not quite so good. Light greens are very close to the screen image, but the dark greens are too dark on the print. Overall 85%.

My conclusion: based on how the Fuji soft proofs look, my screen is, I think, within an acceptable area of accuracy. Better than 90% in all three cases, and given that I don’t have a proper calibrating device or a proper profile for the exact Frontier I used, that seems reasonable to me. If I needed professional colour matching I’m pretty sure I could get it via a decent screen calibration system and possibly a specific Frontier profile.

I further conclude that the Epson printer profile isn’t accurate enough. It would be just about good enough for my requirements if the reds weren’t such a long way off, but as it is, it’s not much use. Maybe more modern/expensive Epsons have better profiles. I’ll be sure to ask in this newsgroup when I start considering a replacement. In the meantime I’ll use the Fuji Crystal Archive profile and the Minilab to get printed images.
SS
scott.southerland
Jul 20, 2004
Derek Fountain wrote in message news:
I further conclude that the Epson printer profile isn’t accurate enough.

Have you considered buying a custom profile for your printer? It sounds like that would solve your Epson problems, or at least go a long way in fending them off.
H
Hecate
Jul 21, 2004
On Tue, 20 Jul 2004 13:12:28 +0800, Derek Fountain
wrote:

I further conclude that the Epson printer profile isn’t accurate enough. It would be just about good enough for my requirements if the reds weren’t such a long way off, but as it is, it’s not much use. Maybe more modern/expensive Epsons have better profiles. I’ll be sure to ask in this newsgroup when I start considering a replacement. In the meantime I’ll use the Fuji Crystal Archive profile and the Minilab to get printed images.

Actually, I’d conclude that you’re using sRGB as your image profile.

The reason I say that is that sRGB has more out of gamut colours for printing. Whilst the Fuji is set up to correct that, your Epson printer likely isn’t. So, when the conversion from RGB to CMYK is done in the printer, you’re not getting the same result.

I’d be interested to see what you get in the soft proof window in Print Preview. You should be able to see the "too redness" before you print. In which case why print it like that?



Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 21, 2004
I further conclude that the Epson printer profile isn’t accurate enough.

Have you considered buying a custom profile for your printer? It sounds like that would solve your Epson problems, or at least go a long way in fending them off.

The thought occurred, but I think I’d rather spend the money on a more modern photo printer with colour profiles which are reported (by folks in this newsgroup) as accurate.

Alternatively, since I only occasionally print a photo (most of my photos end up in web-based photo albums) common sense is telling me to shelve the Epson and just take photos into the Minilab when I want print copies. They did each image for one aussie dollar (cheaper than the Epson I suspect), and I got better than 90% colour accuracy. A new photo printer might be
$300, and I doubt I’ll ever print 300 photos on it. Spending the money on
a Spyder for my screen seems like a much better investment.
DF
Derek Fountain
Jul 21, 2004
Actually, I’d conclude that you’re using sRGB as your image profile.

Er, in all of this I’m not sure I’ve come across the term "image profile". You mean my working space? Yes, sRGB.

The reason I say that is that sRGB has more out of gamut colours for printing. Whilst the Fuji is set up to correct that, your Epson printer likely isn’t. So, when the conversion from RGB to CMYK is done in the printer, you’re not getting the same result.

I check the images for out of gamut colours in the Epson-profiled Photoshop soft proof window before sending them to the Epson. If there are out of gamut colours (which is quite frequent, as you say) I tweak them until the gamut warning disappears.

I’d be interested to see what you get in the soft proof window in Print Preview. You should be able to see the "too redness" before you print. In which case why print it like that?

Which print preview? The image in Photoshop’s Print Preview is far too small to judge. I read that the Print Preview facility in the Epson driver wasn’t colour controlled in any way and therefore wasn’t any use in predicting what shades the printer will actually print. I have yet to come across any form of soft proofing that indicates the reds will print too saturated. If I could find such a thing I’d use that as my soft proof feature and the problem would be solved!
H
Hecate
Jul 22, 2004
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 12:06:43 +0800, Derek Fountain
wrote:

Actually, I’d conclude that you’re using sRGB as your image profile.

Er, in all of this I’m not sure I’ve come across the term "image profile". You mean my working space? Yes, sRGB.

Yes. 🙂

The reason I say that is that sRGB has more out of gamut colours for printing. Whilst the Fuji is set up to correct that, your Epson printer likely isn’t. So, when the conversion from RGB to CMYK is done in the printer, you’re not getting the same result.

I check the images for out of gamut colours in the Epson-profiled Photoshop soft proof window before sending them to the Epson. If there are out of gamut colours (which is quite frequent, as you say) I tweak them until the gamut warning disappears.

Right. Well, if you were using Adobe RGB you’]d find you wouldn’t have to do quite so much tweaking. In fact, with a proper management set up I rarely have to do any tweaking at all.

Incidentally, you should be really "tweak" before you get to the printing stage.

I’d be interested to see what you get in the soft proof window in Print Preview. You should be able to see the "too redness" before you print. In which case why print it like that?

Which print preview? The image in Photoshop’s Print Preview is far too small to judge. I read that the Print Preview facility in the Epson driver wasn’t colour controlled in any way and therefore wasn’t any use in predicting what shades the printer will actually print. I have yet to come across any form of soft proofing that indicates the reds will print too saturated. If I could find such a thing I’d use that as my soft proof feature and the problem would be solved!

If an image is printing too red, such that it is obvious when you print, you really ought to be able to see it in the Print with Preview window.



Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui
SS
scott.southerland
Jul 23, 2004
Hecate wrote in message news:
If an image is printing too red, such that it is obvious when you print, you really ought to be able to see it in the Print with Preview window.

Photoshop’s Print with Preview window is not color managed and not reliable – besides that, it is really small!

Derek – Profiles capture a specific behavior of a single device. Epson happens to have enough consistency across their products that they get decent results by offering the same profiles to everybody that owns a certain printer. Problems arise when a person’s printer, such as yours, begins to vary from the ‘standard’ that Epson used to create their profiles. The variation isn’t nescessarily a bad thing, but it is a problem if the profile no longer describes the behavior of the device. Upgrading to a new printer may or may not be a path to more accurate colors. The same issues could arise – the new printer varies, the profiles don’t work. This is one of the big things with the 2200s, they are excellent printers but many people don’t get the bang for their buck unless they have them profiled, and know how to use the profiles correctly.

With that said, it sounds like you’d rather go with the Fuji but hopefully that gives you a little insight into your problem.
H
Hecate
Jul 24, 2004
On 23 Jul 2004 05:23:01 -0700, (Scott
Southerland) wrote:

Hecate wrote in message news:
If an image is printing too red, such that it is obvious when you print, you really ought to be able to see it in the Print with Preview window.

Photoshop’s Print with Preview window is not color managed and not reliable – besides that, it is really small!
True. He should soft proof.



Hecate

veni, vidi, reliqui

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