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In article ,
says…
Select the sky area (however you choose) and do an Adjustment Layer with that Selection active. Go first to Levels and play around. Load the Selection from Adjustment Layer>Levels, and play with Hue & Saturation. If you have any more Adjustment Layers to use, you might want to load an Inverse of the above Selection so as to no un-do what you have done.
PS is better than a Polarizing filter as it doesn’t degrade the image and can be applied to just certain areas, plus you don’t loose 2.5/f in the process and get a slightly greenish cast that has to be manipulated later.
Hunt
says…
I’m into landscape photography, and a lot of the time I like to carry just an autofocus compact. Trouble is, these don’t take filters, and I don’t want the hassle of holding a polariser in front of the lens, hoping the orientation’s right and that it’s covering the exposure sensor, etc. Ideally, I’d like to shoot without a polariser and make up for it afterwards with Photoshop.
I know you can use Levels on just the blue channel, for instance, but are there any other more sophisticated techniques you can use to darken blue skies in a really natural-loking way, so that you can effectively ‘leave the polarising to Photoshop’?
Thanks in advance
Dave
Select the sky area (however you choose) and do an Adjustment Layer with that Selection active. Go first to Levels and play around. Load the Selection from Adjustment Layer>Levels, and play with Hue & Saturation. If you have any more Adjustment Layers to use, you might want to load an Inverse of the above Selection so as to no un-do what you have done.
PS is better than a Polarizing filter as it doesn’t degrade the image and can be applied to just certain areas, plus you don’t loose 2.5/f in the process and get a slightly greenish cast that has to be manipulated later.
Hunt
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