PANTONE Color sticks, which one should I invest in?

TF
Posted By
Tim_Francis
Nov 30, 2008
Views
771
Replies
26
Status
Closed
Hi all,

I’m about to purchase my first PANTONE color matching library/sticks. I work in both the digital and print spaces and apart from that my only other requirement is to be able to know what printed metalic colors are etc.

If someone could someone please provide me some advise on what package is the best to buy, the benefits of each and where to get the best price for them etc

GoeGuide™ coated with digital library for Adobe® CS
< http://www.pantone.com/pages/products/product.aspx?pid=683&a mp;ca=1>

ESSENTIALS PLUS all the standards plus metallics and pastels < http://www.pantone.com/pages/products/product.aspx?pid=290&a mp;ca=1>

Any help would be much appreciated

MacBook Pro 16” Mockups 🔥

– in 4 materials (clay versions included)

– 12 scenes

– 48 MacBook Pro 16″ mockups

– 6000 x 4500 px

TF
Tim_Francis
Dec 6, 2008
bump… anyone?
SG
steve_guilhamet
Dec 6, 2008
Hi Tim,

You might try posting here:

<http://www.adobeforums.com/webx/.3bbf2770/>

in the Design Discussions> Print Design or Color Management.
TF
Tim_Francis
Dec 7, 2008
Hi steve thanks for the tip, I have now done just that just off topic a bit, I recently failed my ACE Photoshop CS3 exam by 1%, any tips for when I take it again. Do you know if I will have the same exam or?
PM
Paul M Norman
Dec 7, 2008
I use the Pantone Digital Color Guide sticks. Each color lists the RGB and hex equivalents.
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 7, 2008
You also need the color samples that show CMYK closest to Pantone spot colors if you are doing print.

Neil
PM
Paul M Norman
Dec 7, 2008
Oops – right Neil. I’m primarily a Web designer so I didn’t think of the CMYK equivalents.
C
Cindy
Dec 7, 2008
Solid to Process is good. It gives spot and the CMYK equivalents.
TF
Tim_Francis
Dec 8, 2008
Hi guys I cant even see if these systems list RGB values on them (I imagine they would).

I don’t see a solid to process guide in the essentials. (I imagine it is list as 4-color proces?)

ESSENTIALS
* FORMULA GUIDES coated, uncoated, matte
* COLOR BRIDGE® coated
* 4–COLOR PROCESS guides coated/uncoated
* travel case

Apparently the GOE system has 2058 new colors. Have forwarded a question to Pantone to see what they say.
C
Cindy
Dec 8, 2008
This is the one I am talking about.
<http://www.pantone.com/pages/products/product.aspx?pid=293> It is only $119. They changed the name. Guess I’m out of date. 🙂

You can find it even cheaper on Amazon.
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 8, 2008
Cindy,

That’s the same product as I linked. Except mine includes both coated and uncoated versions.

Neil
C
Cindy
Dec 9, 2008
Neil,

It does not look to me like yours shows both spot and CMYK.
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 9, 2008
Cindy,

Per the product description by Pantone:

These invaluable multi–use color reference tools help you to:

• select and specify solid PANTONE Colors on coated and uncoated papers • visualize how PANTONE Colors will appear when reproduced in CMYK • create optimal display of PANTONE Colors on monitors and Web pages

Neil
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 9, 2008
Cindy,

Per the product description by Pantone, on my linked page:

These invaluable multi–use color reference tools help you to:

• select and specify solid PANTONE Colors on coated and uncoated papers • visualize how PANTONE Colors will appear when reproduced in CMYK • create optimal display of PANTONE Colors on monitors and Web pages

Neil
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 9, 2008
???

Neil
C
Cindy
Dec 9, 2008
Because you said they were basically the same product.
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 9, 2008
Cindy,

You’re reading something into my posts that I never said.

Neil
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 9, 2008
Cindy,

You’re reading something into my posts that I neither said nor compared.

Neil
C
Cindy
Dec 9, 2008
Ok
TF
Tim_Francis
Dec 10, 2008
Hi guys thanks for your posts. From what I see I will require the bridge set as posted by Neil.

But I am still unsure of wheather to go for the Essentials Plus or GOE.

Pantone got back to me and this is what they have suggested:

Have you checked out the Essentials Plus? This will give you all the guides of the Essentials and a Metallic and Pastel Guide as well.

The Goe System is an additional 2,058 new colors. You could start with the Goe Guide or Goe Bridge. This is a new set of colors so I would suggest it as well.

So from what I make out Pantone have built these collections in such a way that you have to buy them all and not just 1 package for one purpose (eg a webdesigners package), is that correct?
TF
Tim_Francis
Dec 10, 2008
Also what does coated/uncoated mean?
JM
J_Maloney
Dec 10, 2008
Paper (stock) type. Uncoated stock absorbs more ink, leaving less on top of the paper. "Uncoated" and "coated" inks are the exact same ink, but their appearance on the various paper types are quite different. Uncoated stock leaves ink less saturated and typically lighter than coated stock. A typical uncoated stock would be cheap laser printed paper. Newsprint is uncoated. Coated stocks might have a finish such as matte, satin or gloss. Glossy magazines are coated stock.

<http://www.howdesign.com/article/paperprimer/>
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 10, 2008
Tim,

Of course, Pantone wants you to buy everything. For most of my purposes, I use the Color Bridge as the best all-in-one source. It is invaluable. As I work with metallics from time to time, I also have that swatch book.

I don’t need to share tear-off swatches with clients or printers (they have the same fan-out books that I use). As I need other books, they can be added, as needed.

I mostly used the standard Pantone colors, and have not had need (so far) for the GOE sets. Again, you will know if you have to purchase that, and can purchase it at that time. But I wouldn’t necessarily invest in GOE now.

If you are in a heavy print production environment, it may pay to get a larger set now that closest matches the kind of work that comes across your desk.

Remember to keep the Pantone swatchbooks away from light (and heat) when not in use to preserve the integrity of the colors. Even so, count on replacing the books every few years as the paper yellows and inks react to the atmosphere and light. I keep my Pantone swatchbooks in metal tins (a bit of overkill) in a closed cabinet; never on an open bookshelf or just sitting on my desk.

===

Coated stock is paper with a special surface coating to keep the ink from absorbing into the paper. Ink on the paper surface remains brighter, and more intense. Printing is sharper. Finer line screens can be used for halftones. The coated paper surface is typically very smooth, ranging from dead matte to super glossy (although "drum" applied finishes can add textures for canvas, silk, stippled, and other effects. Most coated stock is white or near-white and it comes in many grades, from junk mail catalogs and many magazines on thinner, less white, less opaque, less smooth, and poorer coated grades; to fine coffee table books on some of the best sheets available.

And as long as we’re talking "paper" — understand that paper is an integral part of the process that can’t be learned and appreciated and used appropriately if you don’t step away from your computer. Many designers today, particularly new, computer-age designers, are clueless about color, texture, weight, grade, trim size, finish, sheet/web, etc.; which when appropriately chosen can make the difference between a so-so print job and a spectacular one. You can’t design well for print without understanding paper and what it can do. Unless you just create ROP ads, don’t leave the choices up to your printer, who is typically just going to spec what he currently has "on the floor".

As you will learn, paper is far more than "80# bright white coated". Get mill swatchbooks and sheet samples for mockups and specification. Learn how to work with printers, paper merchants, and mills. Do some reading. In addition to J’s reference, if you buy nothing else, buy this book: "Pocket Pal" from Amazon or International Paper. < http://www.internationalpaper.com/Paper/Paper%20Products/Poc ket%20Pal%20Home.html> It is invaluable for anyone who does any work for print.

Hope this helps!

Neil
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 10, 2008
Tim,

Of course, Pantone wants you to buy everything. For most of my purposes, I use the Color Bridge as the best all-in-one source. It is invaluable. As I work with metallics from time to time, I also have that swatch book. Pastels, too, although in my workflow, I can’t recall the last time I used it.

I don’t need to share tear-off swatches with clients or printers (they have the same fan-out books that I use). As I need other books, they can be added, as needed.

I mostly used the standard Pantone colors, and have not had need (so far) for the GOE sets. Again, you will know if you have to purchase that, and can purchase it at that time. But I wouldn’t necessarily invest in GOE now.

If you are in a heavy print production environment, it may pay to get a larger set now that closest matches the kind of work that comes across your desk.

Remember to keep the Pantone swatchbooks away from light (and heat) when not in use to preserve the integrity of the colors. Even so, count on replacing the books every few years as the paper yellows and inks react to the atmosphere and light. I keep my Pantone swatchbooks in metal tins (a bit of overkill) in a closed cabinet; never on an open bookshelf or just sitting on my desk.

===

Coated stock is paper with a special surface coating to keep the ink from absorbing into the paper. Ink on the paper surface remains brighter, and more intense. Printing is sharper. Finer line screens can be used for halftones. The coated paper surface is typically very smooth, ranging from dead matte to super glossy (although "drum" applied finishes can add textures for canvas, silk, stippled, and other effects. Most coated stock is white or near-white and it comes in many grades, from junk mail catalogs and many magazines on thinner, less white, less opaque, less smooth, and poorer coated grades; to fine coffee table books on some of the best sheets available.

And as long as we’re talking "paper" — understand that paper is an integral part of the process that can’t be learned and appreciated and used appropriately if you don’t step away from your computer. Many designers today, particularly new, computer-age designers, are clueless about color, texture, weight, grade, trim size, finish, sheet/web, etc.; which when appropriately chosen can make the difference between a so-so print job and a spectacular one. You can’t design well for print without understanding paper and what it can do. Unless you just create ROP ads, don’t leave the choices up to your printer, who is typically just going to spec what he currently has "on the floor".

As you will learn, paper is far more than "80# bright white coated". Get mill swatchbooks and sheet samples for mockups and specification. Learn how to work with printers, paper merchants, and mills. Do some reading. In addition to J’s reference, if you buy nothing else, buy this book: "Pocket Pal" from Amazon or International Paper. < http://www.internationalpaper.com/Paper/Paper%20Products/Poc ket%20Pal%20Home.html> It is invaluable for anyone who does any work for print.

Hope this helps!

Neil
NK
Neil_Keller
Dec 10, 2008
Tim,

BTW, the coated/uncoated formula guides have the advantage of wider Pantone color swatch areas. But for the most part, you probably don’t need them if you have the Bridge Essentials. They just add the ink formulae.

Neil

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