PS photo filters Sky 1A type

Sky filters, anti-blue hue for daylight shots.

Noted* color names I have given relate to the color scale verticle in the middle of the color picker pallet, not the actual color as seen.

Menu:
Image/Adjustments/Photo Filter

red-brown*:
FFC1A2 r255 g193 b162 (20-30%)

red-magenta*:
FFA2CE r255 g162 b206 (15%)

red-orange*:
FFB6A2 r255 g182 b162 (30%)

tan, strong:
B87E39 r184 g126 b57 (20%)

which is close to the

sepia standard filter in PS CS:
AC7A33 r172 g122 b51 (20%)

Copy and paste into a text if anyone can use them because that pallet does not have a save option, at least in CS1. I cannot find anything on this subject anywhere online!

Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:

Sky filters, anti-blue hue for daylight shots.

Noted* color names I have given relate to the color scale verticle in the middle of the color picker pallet, not the actual color as seen. [...]
Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume you want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under Adjustments.

If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB channels to adjust colors.

I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume you want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under Adjustments.
If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB channels to adjust colors.

hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography? A sky filter is made of glass placed within a metal ring which threads into the front of a lens. The "sky" filters are strengths of "1A" and "1B".

If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a sarcastic favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera CCD/CMOS. And it comes out clearly in the resulting print/digital file.

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

--
}<)))*> Giant_Alex
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message

I cannot tell exactly what you are trying to achieve, but I will assume you want the effects with color images. CS2 has color filters under Adjustments.

If you are applying the same to B&W, then it is best to go to the RGB channels to adjust colors.

hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography? A sky filter is made of glass placed within a metal ring which threads into the front of a lens. The "sky" filters are strengths of "1A" and "1B".

Why only "SLR" photography? Fixed lens cameras also suffer from the "problem" you describe.

If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a sarcastic favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera CCD/CMOS.

Colour perspective /Spatial separation. The brain compensates, cameras don't.
Have you tried shooting in RAW or with different white balances (cloudy in your example)?

And it comes out clearly in the resulting print/digital file.

Shouldn't do if you are using PS correctly , adjustment layers etc.,

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

Maybe this is because this form of correction is no longer the problem it used to be when using PS/digital cameras. The trouble with using any piece of glass in front of any optic is that it can introduce other problems, loss of quality, flare,etc., Also, any correction it provides is applied to the whole image, not always desirable. A "pink" filter used to correct a blue/hazey background will also affect foreground whites for example.With PS, you can apply any correction that a filter provides and you can apply it selectively, just to one part of an image or different strengths to different parts of the image.
The only use for the aforementioned filters are to provide protection to the lens front element. Saying that, I use a circular polarizer on all my landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the effect I want in camera, than post camera.

MH

"AAvK" wrote in message
....
[re using Photoshop to get a Sky 1A filter effect]

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

The best book I've seen on this is Professional Photoshop by Dan Margulis.

The overall haze is dealt with by setting a shadow point, and the blue cast would be fixed when setting a neutral, or other reference color, during a color correction. Blue haze in particular may be dealt with using a specific curve adjustment in the Blue channel. Digital offers several advantages over an optical filter: saturation may be increased, the amount of change can be varied according to the intensity of light, and the effect may be restricted to certain parts of the image using masks.

If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available online. --
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

"Mike Russell" wrote in message

"AAvK" wrote in message
...
[re using Photoshop to get a Sky 1A filter effect]

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

The best book I've seen on this is Professional Photoshop by Dan Margulis.

See also Photoshop Lab Color, The Canyon Conundrum....et al by the same author.

MH

The overall haze is dealt with by setting a shadow point, and the blue cast would be fixed when setting a neutral, or other reference color, during a color correction. Blue haze in particular may be dealt with using a specific curve adjustment in the Blue channel. Digital offers several advantages over an optical filter: saturation may be increased, the amount of change can be varied according to the intensity of light, and the effect may be restricted to certain parts of the image using masks.

If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available online. --
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

"AAvK" wrote:

hhmmm... you don't know SLR photography?

SLR photography is no different from any other.

If shooting long distance against distant buildings and mountains, massive atmosphere between you and your subject, the atmosphere does us a sarcastic favor and gives a nasty blue hue to your film, or camera CCD/CMOS.

The filters you mention have a mild effect upon the blue caused by light-scattering haze. They might have a very slight effect in apparent reduction of haze. As I wrote, CS2 has PhotoFilter adjustments to 'simulate' the color correction.

Old N Slow:
Granny typed:
[snip]

I use a circular polarizer on
all my landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the effect I want in camera, than post camera.

MH

The Polarizer is almost a permanent fixture on my SLR... If I want "Pink" anywhere in particular or everywhere then it gets Photoshopped --
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

"granny" wrote in message

Old N Slow:
Granny typed:
[snip]

I use a circular polarizer on
all my landscape shots, as I found that it is quicker to get the effect I want in camera, than post camera.

MH

The Polarizer is almost a permanent fixture on my SLR... If I want "Pink" anywhere in particular or everywhere then it gets Photoshopped

Well said that Granny :)

--
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

??

prefer quick'n'dirty myself ;)

MH

Old N Slow:
Granny typed:
[snip]

If you have a particular image, perhaps you can make it available online. --
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/

I am sure "Curvemeister" Mike has some pins that would be of help to you..

the following is probably a cross post but I am gonna put it here anyway.. 'cause I don't know any better.. I am old and slow!.. and use Photoshop 7

[QUOTE]Originally posted by AAvK

pallet does not have a save option, at least in CS1. I cannot find anything on this subject anywhere online!

Has anyone experimented with this idea? Or does anyone have other and possibly better ideas for sky filters?

If you are trying to emulate slr lens filters there is a freeware program Opanda PhotoFilter at http://www.opanda.com/en/pf/download.htm It includes more than 100 types of filters in it, there are all kinds of color photo filter from Kodak/Cokin/Hoya. It's easy to use, You can import your photo right into the software and apply the filters directly and it saves as a copy of your picture leaving the original as it is. To get the filters into Photoshop I loaded a blank transparent .psd picture in it and selected the color filter I wanted, just click the "Apply" button, the result will be shown with the filter on! After being imported it into photoshop.. It is an easy matter to get your Pallet Numbers with the point sampler... Or simply drag it onto the picture you want to apply it to a mask or the whole picture or layer and adjusted the opacity to about 50% (or whatever looks best). I don't know what you are doing but maybe this will help.. and it is free!!

OR.... Let the Curvemeister color wizard guide you thorugh the basic steps of color correction. Get it at http://www.curvemeister.com/

I am in no way associated with Mike or Curvemeister but his knowledge has been very helpful to me in this forum
--
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy

In article <sNJRg.1120$>,
"AAvK" wrote:

The sky filters correct this problem by giving a coloration which counteracts the blue hue. Concerning Photoshop, or digital graphics work in general, this
photography issue isn't addressed anywhere online that I can find.

Image->Adjust->Curves.

Photoshop excels at extremely fine, extremely controllable color correction--that's one of the things it excels at. If you have a blue cast to your images, use the Curves command to get rid of it.

--
Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
Nanohazard, Geek shirts, and more: http://www.villaintees.com

One of the issues here is the reduction of haze in the original exposure. Adding a color filter after the fact is not the same as making a proper filtered exposure.

"j" wrote in message

One of the issues here is the reduction of haze in the original exposure. Adding a color filter after the fact is not the same as making a proper filtered exposure.

To correct your example, I wouldn't add a filter after the fact either, but employ (amongst other things) channel adjustments in LAB mode. Some of the problem regarding haze also used to be due to a particular films sensitivity (chemistry)to certain colours and its dynamic range, this is on longer the problem with modern CCD's.

see Photoshop Lab Color, The Canyon Conundrum....by Dan Margulis.

MH