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I’ve played a few months with my Olympus mju/stylus 300. I only have an ancient B&W DeskWriter so I have printed a few test images as glossy 15x10cm (6×4") images at a shop with surprisingly good results. I’d like to do very basic editing to the images to get the best possible output from the shop. Some questions:
– Just what type of printer do the shops use to print their glossy 6×4" images from digital cameras (and color negatives)? Is is some kind of a continuos tone printer so no halftoning is used?? What is the minimum acceptable resolution for a 6×4" print for those devices: 150 ppi, 300 ppi?? Is there any benefit in bicubic upsampling of a severely cropped image (some guides suggest that scanned images suffer from upsampling but images from digital cameras may benefit from upsampling)?
– With such a printer service, is it necessary to limit the output levels so that no shadows or (non-specular) highlights are at the very end of the tonal range, like is advised for halftoned images, to avoid paper-white whites, for example?
– Is it necessary to sharpen images from a digital camera if they are printed in such a shop? The books seem to advocate much less sharpening than in halftone prints.
– AFAIK the monitor must be calibrated using the printer’s ICC profile but sadly many shops don’t yet provide them. I guess gamma 2.2 would be OK for such shops but what about the white point: should it be 6500 or 9300 or something else??
thanks for any input,
—
Matti Haveri
– Just what type of printer do the shops use to print their glossy 6×4" images from digital cameras (and color negatives)? Is is some kind of a continuos tone printer so no halftoning is used?? What is the minimum acceptable resolution for a 6×4" print for those devices: 150 ppi, 300 ppi?? Is there any benefit in bicubic upsampling of a severely cropped image (some guides suggest that scanned images suffer from upsampling but images from digital cameras may benefit from upsampling)?
– With such a printer service, is it necessary to limit the output levels so that no shadows or (non-specular) highlights are at the very end of the tonal range, like is advised for halftoned images, to avoid paper-white whites, for example?
– Is it necessary to sharpen images from a digital camera if they are printed in such a shop? The books seem to advocate much less sharpening than in halftone prints.
– AFAIK the monitor must be calibrated using the printer’s ICC profile but sadly many shops don’t yet provide them. I guess gamma 2.2 would be OK for such shops but what about the white point: should it be 6500 or 9300 or something else??
thanks for any input,
—
Matti Haveri
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