Can this be retouched?

"Peter" wrote in message

I have scanned a photo from a brochure, across two pages
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-1.jpg (about 400k)
I have Photoshop 7. Is there any way to do a "blended fill" which takes its edge colour and texture from the RH and LH sides, and does a linear interpolation between the two?

Those of you who will wonder about copyright, I have been sent the full press picture pack by the company involved but they cannot find the original for this pic… so there is nothing illegal in this.
There are also two higher res versions there

http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-2.jpg
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-3.jpg

which are obviously bigger.

I would really appreciate any hints on how to do this (easily).

Personally, and I am not a Photoshop professional just a serious hobbyist. I’d use a mixture of the clone stamp tool and healing brush tool over the join. However I’d make a rectangular section of the RHS and move that side over so that it joins the LHS. Then I’d clone and heal.

I’m going to have a wee bash at it myself as I’ve nothing esle to do tonight.
I’ll post it on some spare webspace I have later
BC

"Peter" wrote in message

I have scanned a photo from a brochure, across two pages
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-1.jpg (about 400k)
I have Photoshop 7. Is there any way to do a "blended fill" which takes its edge colour and texture from the RH and LH sides, and does a linear interpolation between the two?

Those of you who will wonder about copyright, I have been sent the full press picture pack by the company involved but they cannot find the original for this pic… so there is nothing illegal in this.
There are also two higher res versions there

http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-2.jpg
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-3.jpg

which are obviously bigger.

I would really appreciate any hints on how to do this (easily).
Peter.
—

yes it can
carefully, slowly place the healing brush, place the sample point carefully to the left or right of the seam

"Peter" wrote in message

I have Photoshop 7. Is there any way to do a "blended fill" which takes its edge colour and texture from the RH and LH sides, and does a linear interpolation between the two?

Yes it can be done with a measure of success which will correlate directly with your skill in Photoshop!!
Your comment on linear interpolation did however make me think of a possibility! sometimes with magazines the image on one page can continue for a few centimetres across the join of the page and under the adjoining page! If that has happened in this case, I would suggest re-scanning the pages separately so that there is an overlap – then use auto-stitch http://www.cs.ubc.ca/~mbrown/autostitch/autostitch.html to put them together, its a free programme, and one of the best in its field IMO. of course if there is no overlap you will need to look up tutorials on cloning – blending – blurring etc.

"Peter" wrote in message

I have scanned a photo from a brochure, across two pages
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-1.jpg (about 400k)
I have Photoshop 7. Is there any way to do a "blended fill" which takes its edge colour and texture from the RH and LH sides, and does a linear interpolation between the two?

Those of you who will wonder about copyright, I have been sent the full press picture pack by the company involved but they cannot find the original for this pic… so there is nothing illegal in this.
There are also two higher res versions there

http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-2.jpg
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-3.jpg

which are obviously bigger.

I would really appreciate any hints on how to do this (easily).

The image crops acceptably IMHO, but assuming the director doesn’t want that:

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure compensation.

This will be more effective than using a gradient mask on an adjustment layer, which is the method of choice for scans from permanently bound material. If you go with your current scans, the alignment can be improved slightly by copying one half to another layer

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan. Set eyedropper samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

If the image will be printed at size, you also have a descreening issue here. Dan Margulis’s book Professional Photoshop, 4th edition has a section on how to do this effectively.
—
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com

"Mike Russell" wrote

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure compensation.

I have checked this and the paper was flat during the scan. Also I am not using any auto exposure (that I know of). It’s a top-end (consumer grade) Epson scanner.

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan.

That is the main reason why one cannot simply join the two – the two pages were exposed differently.

Set eyedropper
samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

Thanks for the great tips.

"Harry Limey" <harrylimey(at)Lycos.co.uk> wrote

Your comment on linear interpolation did however make me think of a possibility! sometimes with magazines the image on one page can continue for a few centimetres across the join of the page and under the adjoining page! If that has happened in this case, I would suggest re-scanning the pages separately so that there is an overlap – then use auto-stitch

Super idea, and I did look, but there is no overlap….

cant help but i like to see the completed picture when you do —

http://photobucket.com/albums/b216/corks67/my-bikes/

"Peter" wrote in message

I have scanned a photo from a brochure, across two pages
http://www.peter2000.co.uk/images/tb20-snow-1.jpg (about 400k)

Peter wrote:

"Mike Russell" wrote

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure compensation.

I have checked this and the paper was flat during the scan. Also I am

I’d swear you can *see* the curve in the edge(s). Did you cut the two halves out as suggested, or is that not possible?

not using any auto exposure (that I know of). It’s a top-end (consumer grade) Epson scanner.

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan.

That is the main reason why one cannot simply join the two – the two pages were exposed differently.

If you cut them out and scanned them together that wouldn’t happen. If the two pieces together were too big for the scanner, I’d even consider slicing the big "half" in two so the two pieces that compose the binding join could be scanned perfectly flat. You’d have to stitch it twice, but the middle stitch would be pretty easy to fix.

Set eyedropper
samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

Thanks for the great tips.

These guys in here *are* good, ain’t they?!?

—
dvus

"dvus" wrote in message

Peter wrote:

"Mike Russell" wrote

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure compensation.

I have checked this and the paper was flat during the scan. Also I am

I’d swear you can *see* the curve in the edge(s). Did you cut the two halves out as suggested, or is that not possible?

not using any auto exposure (that I know of). It’s a top-end (consumer grade) Epson scanner.

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan.

That is the main reason why one cannot simply join the two – the two pages were exposed differently.

If you cut them out and scanned them together that wouldn’t happen. If the two pieces together were too big for the scanner, I’d even consider slicing the big "half" in two so the two pieces that compose the binding join could be scanned perfectly flat. You’d have to stitch it twice, but the middle stitch would be pretty easy to fix.

Set eyedropper
samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

Thanks for the great tips.

These guys in here *are* good, ain’t they?!?

—
dvus

yeah and we’re not all guys 😉

KatWoman wrote:

"dvus" wrote in message

Peter wrote:

"Mike Russell" wrote

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure
compensation.

I have checked this and the paper was flat during the scan. Also I am

I’d swear you can *see* the curve in the edge(s). Did you cut the two halves out as suggested, or is that not possible?

not using any auto exposure (that I know of). It’s a top-end (consumer grade) Epson scanner.

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan.

That is the main reason why one cannot simply join the two – the two pages were exposed differently.

If you cut them out and scanned them together that wouldn’t happen. If the two pieces together were too big for the scanner, I’d even consider slicing the big "half" in two so the two pieces that compose the binding join could be scanned perfectly flat. You’d have to stitch it twice, but the middle stitch would be pretty easy to fix.

Set eyedropper
samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

Thanks for the great tips.

These guys in here *are* good, ain’t they?!?

yeah and we’re not all guys 😉

Heh, sorry, I meant the generic "guys", (like in "mankind"). I’ve found many of your posts very informative and I keep you tucked in my "Tips" folder, right under Johan W. Elzenga.

—
dvus

"dvus" wrote in message

KatWoman wrote:

"dvus" wrote in message

Peter wrote:

"Mike Russell" wrote

First get rid of the gradient between pages, and hopefully some of the color difference between the two halves. I’d start by cutting the pages apart and do a really flat scan – flat in two ways. First no page curve at the centerfold, and second no exposure
compensation.

I have checked this and the paper was flat during the scan. Also I am

I’d swear you can *see* the curve in the edge(s). Did you cut the two halves out as suggested, or is that not possible?

not using any auto exposure (that I know of). It’s a top-end (consumer grade) Epson scanner.

The highlights of the right hand page are somewhat warmer than the left, and the right page also has lighter shadows with more cyan.

That is the main reason why one cannot simply join the two – the two pages were exposed differently.

If you cut them out and scanned them together that wouldn’t happen. If the two pieces together were too big for the scanner, I’d even consider slicing the big "half" in two so the two pieces that compose the binding join could be scanned perfectly flat. You’d have to stitch it twice, but the middle stitch would be pretty easy to fix.

Set eyedropper
samples at corresponding points in the two halves, and then use curves in CMYK mode, of course, to match up the colors. Then the clone tool and/or healing brush to get rid of the fold, which will be much less apparent with the physically flatter scan.

Thanks for the great tips.

These guys in here *are* good, ain’t they?!?

yeah and we’re not all guys 😉

Heh, sorry, I meant the generic "guys", (like in "mankind"). I’ve found many of your posts very informative and I keep you tucked in my "Tips" folder, right under Johan W. Elzenga.

—
dvus

🙂