Another resize/image quality question

D
Posted By
dvwool
Dec 25, 2005
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2464
Replies
40
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Closed
Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.

I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

How to Master Sharpening in Photoshop

Give your photos a professional finish with sharpening in Photoshop. Learn to enhance details, create contrast, and prepare your images for print, web, and social media.

TN
Tesco News
Dec 25, 2005
wrote in message
Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Hi.

Are the people sending the image files Expert Digital Photographers?

If not, then you are almost certainly wasting your time in specifying Resolution or Pixel Count. You only have to read a few of the posts here to understand that most people don’t even know what you are talking about.

I am the Webmaster for a Camera Club, and there is a page of instructions about re-sizing images for Web Use and Emailing. I know that most of the files I get sent are the wrong size, and the file naming bears no relation to what I have specified. These people are producing digital images, and entering competitions on a regular basis, and yet seem unable to work out how many pixels are in the long side of their images.

So the very best of luck to you.

Roy G
T
Teun
Dec 25, 2005
schreef in bericht
Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

When resizing to a bigger format there we’ll be always quality loss. It’s better to resize to a smaller size if possible.
MG
m.golner
Dec 25, 2005
wrote:
Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave
Hello Dave,

First, totally disregard any information you are sent about the ‘size’ of an image, such as 4×6, etc. This is pretty meaningless since it can be at any pixel count per inch. What matters is total pixel dimensions. You can open any digital image in any number of image editors and find the pixel dimensions of the image. This will be something like 1200 x 1600, or 2000 x 3000, etc, usually in a ratio of 3:2 or 4:3, depending on the camera. You can make a pretty good print at about 250 pixels per inch of print size. If really needed, you might be able to get quality you are satisfied with at 200 ppi, and you will get quality anyone will find very high at 300 ppi. So if you go for about a 250 ppi printed resolution, a 2000 x 3000 pixel image will get you good quality at about 8×12 inch print dimension (2000/250=8, etc.).

Or to look at it from the other side, if you want to make a good 12×16 print, ask the person supplying the image for 3000 x 4000 pixels. Note, however, that this is 12 MegaPixels, and not many cameras are capable of that. This implies, of course, that there will be very basic limitations to the size you will be able to print acceptably, depending on the ‘size’ of the camera taking the image. Up sampling to get a higher pixel count might be possible *to a very limited degree*, if bicubic resampling is used, but this is treacherous water, and usually you need an image without a lot of detail for this to be a very good solution.

Also note the comments made by previous poster Roy G, that you are likely to confuse many people if you start asking them about dimensions. Probably best to just tell folks to set their camera to the largest file size, highest quality they can find in their camera’s menu, then you figure out what they’ve given you and go from there.

HTH & MC

Mike
N
nomail
Dec 25, 2005
wrote:

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

The only thing that matters is total pixels. You can change the resolution anytime you want, no need to bother your customers with that. And you can downsample anytime you want, no need to bother your customers with that either.

If you want to print at 300 ppi, your biggest print size needs 12 x 300 by 16 x 300 pixels = 3600 by 4800 pixels. That’s (much) more than the average digital camera can deliver, so always ask them to shoot at the highest camera resolution and send the complete file, not a downsized copy. Even then your biggest print size will be printed at lower resolution (which is not a big deal, because the viewing distance is bigger as well). With all due respect: If you couldn’t figure that out yourself, I sure hope you know what you are doing…


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
D
dvwool
Dec 25, 2005
Thanks for all of the great feedback everyone! I have a much clearer understanding now.

The people who will be sending me the files are just ordinary people so I will most likely just tell them to set their camera on the highest quality setting and leave it at that… there will be some issues with the files every now and then, but that is to be expected.

File manipulation with regards to image quality is relatively new to me as this is my first leap into that area, so I DON’T know exactly what I’m doing… hence my post. With all due respect, I will have a solid understanding in no time.

Thanks again for the replies it helped a lot!

Merry Christmas!
-Dave
JH
Jim Hargan
Dec 25, 2005
On 25 Dec 2005 10:05:14 -0800, wrote:

File manipulation with regards to image quality is relatively new to me as this is my first leap into that area, so I DON’T know exactly what I’m doing

Be sure to tell your people to NOT use jpeg to capture the images. Use tiff or raw. Jpeg damages resolution — tiff and raw do not.

Hand-held amateur and pro-am cameras do not have the inherent ability to capture the resolution needed for super-sharp 12" by 16" prints. As John Elzinga said, this requires a 12 megapixel camera, mounted on a tripod. Film cameras can also capture this amount of recoverable detail — again, only if you use a tripod.


Jim Hargan
Freelance Photographer and Writer
www.harganonline.com
AI
anonomous individual
Dec 25, 2005
Jim Hargan wrote:
On 25 Dec 2005 10:05:14 -0800, wrote:

File manipulation with regards to image quality is relatively new to me as this is my first leap into that area, so I DON’T know exactly what I’m doing

Be sure to tell your people to NOT use jpeg to capture the images. Use tiff or raw. Jpeg damages resolution — tiff and raw do not.

Hand-held amateur and pro-am cameras do not have the inherent ability to capture the resolution needed for super-sharp 12" by 16" prints. As John Elzinga said, this requires a 12 megapixel camera, mounted on a tripod. Film cameras can also capture this amount of recoverable detail — again, only if you use a tripod.
I have never heard such a load of total bullshit from someone proporting to be a "Professional" Photographer in my life. Why do you suppose the likes of Kodak and Canon openly state that 6 Megapixel files are suitable for high quality prints of 16"x20" and 24" respectively?

Maybe you ought to send them a letter and tell them they got it wrong?

YD
yodel_dodel
Dec 25, 2005
anonomous individual wrote:
Jim Hargan wrote:
Hand-held amateur and pro-am cameras do not have the inherent ability to capture the resolution needed for super-sharp 12" by 16" prints.
I have never heard such a load of total bullshit…

Well, it all depends on what the subject of these photos is.

If all you want is 16" portraits to hang on the wall, any middle of the road camera will do fine, you need no more than, say, 4 megapixel, you may use JPG, and you can even make do without a tripod.

But if these prints will be highscool graduation photos with 250 faces on them, and you expect to recognize the individual faces on those 20" prints, you better use a heavy duty pro camera with 10 or more megapixel, raw mode, tripod, auxiliary flash, the works.
R
RicSeyler
Dec 25, 2005
LOLOLOL
No Kidding…….

I own a print/graphic shop and you will invariably get a 72dpi 100×70 pixel image. hehehehehe
I’ve even had production dept employees at big places sent be back graphics after I tell then it won’t
give them what they are after, where they open the 72dpi graphic and type in 300dpi and send it back….
pffffftttt

And it’s 90% college "educated graphics people". Give me a guy that had to learn
on his own by trial and error. Hell most of the ‘Secretary Typesetting" as I call it
are more likely to provide what’s needed over College Educated Graphics people..
But you do get a lot of neat looking stuff that an offset press can’t come close
to reproducing….. I guess they NEVER teach that it’s imperative to know printing
presses in their chosen profession. <rolls eyes> 🙂

Tesco News wrote:

Hi.

Are the people sending the image files Expert Digital Photographers?
If not, then you are almost certainly wasting your time in specifying Resolution or Pixel Count.

Roy G


Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove -SPAM- from email address
————————————–
"Homer no function beer well without."
– H.J. Simpson

JH
Jim Hargan
Dec 25, 2005
On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 20:43:11 GMT, anonomous individual wrote:

I have never heard such a load of total bullshit from someone proporting to be a "Professional" Photographer in my life. Why do you suppose the likes of Kodak and Canon openly state that 6 Megapixel files are suitable for high quality prints of 16"x20" and 24" respectively?

As has already been pointed out, if you wish to create a 12" by 16" print on a good quality laser jet printer, one that show the sort of high resolution detail of which the printer is capable, you will need at least 250 pixels per inch. This gives your (250 * 12) * (250 * 16) pixels, or 12 megapixels. This will allow you to use all of the capabilities of a 1440/2880 printer.

The 250 setting is a low compromise. A 1440/2880 printer should be able to use 300 pixels per inch, and this is the standard setting for the printing presses used by magazines. This requires 17.8 megapix for 12" by 16". Most (or all) pro digital cameras fall short of this.

If you start with a six megapixel image, you may print it at 12" by 16" by setting the pixels per inch at 176; (176 * 12) * (176 * 16) = 5.95 megapixels. When you do this, printer modes above 720 won’t give you any additional resolution. However, this will give you a perfectly nice print that will look a bit blurry only if you stand very close.

If you hand-hold a 12 megapixel or film camera, you will probably obtain roughly the same amount of resolution as hand-holding a 6 megapixel camera. It depends on your camera + lens weight, with lighter cameras giving you better resolution. To get *all* of the extra resolution provided by 12 megapixel or film cameras, you need to use a tripod. For hand-holding, concentrate on camera lightness and proper holding technique, rather than on paying for extra megapixels.


Jim Hargan
Freelance Photographer and Writer
www.harganonline.com
AI
anonomous individual
Dec 25, 2005
Jim Hargan wrote:
On Sun, 25 Dec 2005 20:43:11 GMT, anonomous individual wrote:

I have never heard such a load of total bullshit from someone proporting to be a "Professional" Photographer in my life. Why do you suppose the likes of Kodak and Canon openly state that 6 Megapixel files are suitable for high quality prints of 16"x20" and 24" respectively?

As has already been pointed out, if you wish to create a 12" by 16" print on a good quality laser jet printer, one that show the sort of high resolution detail of which the printer is capable, you will need at least 250 pixels per inch. This gives your (250 * 12) * (250 * 16) pixels, or 12 megapixels. This will allow you to use all of the capabilities of a 1440/2880 printer.
As I have pointed out on numerous occasions, even offered a brand new 5D to a regular poster here if he could prove me wrong from examining example prints 24"x36" I would send him… All your theories are out of date.

I still have the 5D. He, like you and dozens before you continue to hold the (obsolete) belief that a digital camera image produces all it has to offer right out of the camera.

http://www.photosbydouglas.com/canvas/big.htm

Optical enlargements have a limit based on the defraction of light in the atmosphere. This limits both the sharpness and the overall attenuation of the enlargement.

Digital images are mathematical creations which can have the same mathematics applied to them as created them in the first place. The physics of enlarging photographs is unchanged.

I presume in referring to a "good quality laser printer" you are talking about a Durst "Lambda". These machines do produce the finest continuous tone images I have ever seen. I have some six feet wide which I took with a 10D camera and they are as sharp as a ‘cat’s whisker’. http://www.photosbydouglas.com/cat‘s-whisker.htm

Only by opening your mind, can you ever hope to see.
T
Tacit
Dec 26, 2005
In article ,
wrote:

I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality.

Impossible. It can not be done.

This is not difficult; it’s actually very simple. NOTHING–absolutely nothing, no program and no technique–can enlarge an image that is made of pixels and create detail that does not exist in the original. It violates the laws of physics; it is not even theoretically possible.

Various techniques can produce results that don’t totally suck, and an uncritical viewer who doesn’t know how to evaluate image quality might think they are OK as long as they don’t look too closely, but NOTHING can enlarge an image without losing quality.

If you want high-quality results at 12×16, you MUST start with a high-resolution image at 12×16. NOTHING else will look as good. Nothing–not the "Genuine Fractals" snake oil, not Photoshop, not anything–will take a 4×6 image, enlarge it to 12×16, and give results as good as if you started with a 12×16 image in the first place.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
T
Tacit
Dec 26, 2005
In article <hfFrf.107036$>,
anonomous individual wrote:

Digital images are mathematical creations which can have the same mathematics applied to them as created them in the first place. The physics of enlarging photographs is unchanged.

Wrong.

Digital images have a fixed amount of information in them, which is determined by the number of pixels. Each pixel is a solid color; no sub-pixel information exists in the image.

They are not made "mathematically." When a digital image is enlarged, it still contains the same amount of information. No new information is added. No new information exists. The same amount of information is spread over a larger number of pixels, that’s all.

Some non-critical viewers who do not know how to evaluate image quality are fooled if the resulting upsampled image is over-sharpened; they do not know how to see the results of the interpolation, that’s all.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
T
Tacit
Dec 26, 2005
In article <13g426sms1hj3.oiva6340g1ik$>,
Jim Hargan wrote:

Be sure to tell your people to NOT use jpeg to capture the images. Use tiff or raw. Jpeg damages resolution — tiff and raw do not.

JPEG does not damage *resolution*. That is a misunderstanding of JPEG compression.

JPEG damages image information, and degrades image detail, but this process has nothing to do with resolution. A 300 pixel per inch image saved as JPEG is still 300 pixels per inch; the resolution is undamaged. However, the image is degraded because artifacts are introduced around sharp edges and areas of high contrast, and areas of solid color show patterns such as "blocking."


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
JH
Jim Hargan
Dec 26, 2005
On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 17:19:44 GMT, tacit wrote:

In article <13g426sms1hj3.oiva6340g1ik$>,
Jim Hargan wrote:

Be sure to tell your people to NOT use jpeg to capture the images. Use tiff or raw. Jpeg damages resolution — tiff and raw do not.

JPEG does not damage *resolution*. That is a misunderstanding of JPEG compression.

JPEG damages image information, and degrades image detail, but this process has nothing to do with resolution. A 300 pixel per inch image saved as JPEG is still 300 pixels per inch; the resolution is undamaged. However, the image is degraded because artifacts are introduced around sharp edges and areas of high contrast, and areas of solid color show patterns such as "blocking."

Yes, but …

Jpeg reduces the information in order to simplify, and therefore shrink, the image. Less information = blurrier print.

We may be making a verbal argument over "resolution". Here’s a thought experiment: Let’s say I pick up a lightweight amateur 6 megapix camera, hold it in my hands, and shoot an overcast landscape. Now I do the same with an $8,000 pro 12 megapix model. Which picture has more "resolution"?

By your definition, the 12 megapix image will always have double the resolution. *But* the 6 megapix camera is substantially lighter, and so my hands would shake less during the long exposure. For this reason, my 6 megapix image would probably be sharper and more detailed than my 12 megapix image. This is what I meant when I used the term, "resolution".

I would call your concept, "maximum resolution" or "maximum resolving power". To see the difference, imagine that I am taking the picture of a resolution target instead of a cloudy landscape. My ‘low resolution’ 6 megapix image, with less shutter shake, would resolve a closer line pattern than my 12 megapix image with more shutter shake.

True story: About 15+ years ago, two friends of mine went to London for a week. One purchased a top of the line pro camera with a big zoom lens. The other used a $75 point and shoot with a fixed lens and leaf shutter. The sun never shown once, the entire week. Guess who had dramatically clearer pictures? The point and shooter, of course.


Jim Hargan
Freelance Photographer and Writer
www.harganonline.com
AI
anonomous individual
Dec 26, 2005
tacit wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality.

Impossible. It can not be done.

This is not difficult; it’s actually very simple. NOTHING–absolutely nothing, no program and no technique–can enlarge an image that is made of pixels and create detail that does not exist in the original. It violates the laws of physics; it is not even theoretically possible.

Amazing that Tacit is the first person I have ever come across in 50 years of photography who turned his back on the opportunity to get a BRAND NEW CAMERA for free. A Canon 5D camera at that. All he/it/she had to do was stand beside a recognized member or (any) photographic society in his/its/her own town and they both decide one of my enlargements – which Tacit says is impossible to produce – actually can be made.

I went through this early in 2005 with another dyed in the wool stalwart in Canada who said I couldn’t make an enlargement as "good" as from a medium format film. He modified that statement to mean ‘transparency’ film and then again to claim medium format was not 645 but 6cm x 7cm. That’s OK, I still took him on.

He nominated a San Diego Commercial Photographer (Gordon Moate) as the party to arbitrate in the event of dispute. My algorithm has refined quite a lot since then, incidently. Read Gordon’s article here; http://www.allgstudio.com/technology.html

Meantime back on a planet in a nearby galaxy… Tacit continues on his/her/it’s crusade to tell an ever diminishing number of earthlings willing to listen, that the world is still square. Good one Tacit. That 5D is a fine camera. I’m enjoying it to it’s full. I still have the RB67 outfit from the last round too. Strange, that.

I have a question for you, Tacit.
You refused my offer of example prints (free) and you refuse to participate in a peer judgment. You are not interested in the lure of a $5000 camera if you can prove I can’t do what I do every day for a living…

What would actually bring you to tell the world you were/are wrong. That Interpolation has evolved to the point digital images can in fact be enlarged and for the most part not lose any image quality during the process?

Maybe I should speak to one of my client’s about putting up a Pacific Island cruise for two this time? I could use pictures of their ship they paid big bucks for… 4 feet high and 6 feet wide. On display in the reception area and board room of their offices. Would that entice you?

I’m sure they would love to hear you tell them the pictures I enlarged from 20D files, that at the same viewing distance of an 8"x12" print, look just as sharp and clear as the smaller one, really don’t exist because they can’t be made.

So come on Tacit, you frequently have things to contribute to the group, you must at least have a clue about something photographic – or did at one time. What do you need to change your mind here?

I don’t mind so much what you post about regarding things from your knowledge arsenal. What I have an issue with is you post outrageous and totally outdated comments about something you clearly have no interest in being enlightened on. You really should stop it because you are just making yourself look stupid.

N
nomail
Dec 26, 2005
anonomous individual wrote:

This is not difficult; it’s actually very simple. NOTHING–absolutely nothing, no program and no technique–can enlarge an image that is made of pixels and create detail that does not exist in the original. It violates the laws of physics; it is not even theoretically possible.

Amazing that Tacit is the first person I have ever come across in 50 years of photography who turned his back on the opportunity to get a BRAND NEW CAMERA for free. A Canon 5D camera at that. All he/it/she had to do was stand beside a recognized member or (any) photographic society in his/its/her own town and they both decide one of my enlargements – which Tacit says is impossible to produce – actually can be made.
I went through this early in 2005 with another dyed in the wool stalwart in Canada who said I couldn’t make an enlargement as "good" as from a medium format film. He modified that statement to mean ‘transparency’ film and then again to claim medium format was not 645 but 6cm x 7cm. That’s OK, I still took him on.

He nominated a San Diego Commercial Photographer (Gordon Moate) as the party to arbitrate in the event of dispute. My algorithm has refined quite a lot since then, incidently. Read Gordon’s article here; http://www.allgstudio.com/technology.html

Let me quote something from your own reference: "One thing that needs to be considered is that upsizing any image will never add information to the original file." That’s exactly what Tacit says.

Meantime back on a planet in a nearby galaxy… Tacit continues on his/her/it’s crusade to tell an ever diminishing number of earthlings willing to listen, that the world is still square. Good one Tacit. That 5D is a fine camera. I’m enjoying it to it’s full. I still have the RB67 outfit from the last round too. Strange, that.

I have a question for you, Tacit.
You refused my offer of example prints (free) and you refuse to participate in a peer judgment. You are not interested in the lure of a $5000 camera if you can prove I can’t do what I do every day for a living…

What would actually bring you to tell the world you were/are wrong. That Interpolation has evolved to the point digital images can in fact be enlarged and for the most part not lose any image quality during the process?

The point is not that you cannot interpolate an image without LOOSING quality. I agree with you that this is indeed possible. I’ve also made 24×36′ prints from a 6 Mpixel camera, and the results are often remarkable. However, although NOT LOOSING quality can be fine for some images, it isn’t always enough due to the kind of information people expect to see on the large print.

Let me give you an example: Suppose I have a 4×6′ print of a picture with a car on it. I can see the licence plate, but I cannot read it because it is too small. On this 4×6′ print I’ll accept that. However, if you make a 24 x 36′ print from that same image, I do expect to be able to read that licence plate. But if that information wasn’t in the original image, there is no way your or anyone else’s interpolation algoritms can bring it out.

Another example: A group of two hundred people standing in front of the building they work in. Nobody expects to see indivdual faces on a small print, but blow it up to 24×36′ and everybody steps forward to try to recognise individual people. If that information isn’t in the original file, it isn’t in the interpolated one so it isn’t in the print.

That’s why I now use a Canon EOS 1Ds MkII as my first camera.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
T
Tacit
Dec 26, 2005
In article <f_Xrf.110190$>,
anonomous individual wrote:

Amazing that Tacit is the first person I have ever come across in 50 years of photography who turned his back on the opportunity to get a BRAND NEW CAMERA for free. A Canon 5D camera at that. All he/it/she had to do was stand beside a recognized member or (any) photographic society in his/its/her own town and they both decide one of my enlargements – which Tacit says is impossible to produce – actually can be made.

Hogwash. Your "test" is absolute bunk.

You see, what you are offering to do is make an enlargement and then ask some people if they like it or not. That’s a worthless and valueless "test" that does not address what I’m talking about.

The only valid "test" is this: make two images, from the same source under the same light, one at a high resolution and one at a low resolution. Print both side by side, and see which contains more detail. However you do this test, the results will always be the same: an image created at high resolution will always have more detail than the same image created at low resolution and then interpolated.

Of course, there are all kinds of things you can do to cheat. Lizard Tech printed a brochure a couple years back advertising Genuine Fractals in which they presented several pairs of images side-by-side, one a high-resolution scan and one a low-resolution scan interpolated up with their program. I chose the high-resolution scan in their brochure every time, with perfect accuracy, but I also recognized what they’d done to throw the result; the high-res scans were not sharpened, and the low-res scans were. The low-res scans contained less detail, and anyone looking at the fine detail in the images could see this; but people glancing at the pictures tend top choose the one that has been sharpened over the one that has not. Had both images been sharpened by the same amount, the results would have been much different.

But what you’re saying is that it’s possible to enlarge an image and make a result that people like. Yes, it is true. You can enlarge an image and get a result that people will like–if they are not looking at the same exact image processed in the same way but that was high resolution to begin with.

If what you’re saying is true, then the advertising and prepress industry would not need to spend a great deal of time and energy and money working with high-resolution files; they could just work with smaller low-resolution files and interpolate them up. They don’t, because the results of enlarging a file will never, ever match the results of starting with a high-resolution file to begin with.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
JH
Jim Hargan
Dec 26, 2005
On Mon, 26 Dec 2005 22:03:30 +0100, Johan W. Elzenga wrote:

The point is not that you cannot interpolate an image without LOOSING quality. I agree with you that this is indeed possible. I’ve also made 24×36′ prints from a 6 Mpixel camera, and the results are often remarkable. However, although NOT LOOSING quality can be fine for some images, it isn’t always enough due to the kind of information people expect to see on the large print.

Let me give you an example: Suppose I have a 4×6′ print of a picture with a car on it. I can see the licence plate, but I cannot read it because it is too small. On this 4×6′ print I’ll accept that. However, if you make a 24 x 36′ print from that same image, I do expect to be able to read that licence plate. But if that information wasn’t in the original image, there is no way your or anyone else’s interpolation algoritms can bring it out.

Bravo! This is the clearest exposition I’ve seen yet.

Jim Hargan
YD
yodel_dodel
Dec 26, 2005
Jim Hargan wrote:

By your definition, the 12 megapix image will always have double the resolution. *But* the 6 megapix camera is substantially lighter, and so my hands would shake less during the long exposure.

I’d think the opposite is true. More mass means more inertia means less shaking.
C
chrlz
Dec 26, 2005
I’ll do it – give *me* a go, Dougie!!

But of course the print/s will HAVE TO BE OF A RESOLUTION TEST CHART, or at the very least, an image that has MEASURABLE and MEANINGFUL detail. You know, Douglas, the sort of *real* test that you NEVER allow yourself to be involved in.

If that is not acceptable to you, Douglas (and we know it won’t be), then we will know what your ‘challenge’ is worth – about as much as *any* of your advice.

Everyone with even a passing knowledge of photography knows that some images have no fine detail to resolve anyway, and those prints could be enlarged by *any* twit.
TE
Trace Elliot
Dec 27, 2005
Greg N. wrote:
Jim Hargan wrote:

By your definition, the 12 megapix image will always have double the resolution. *But* the 6 megapix camera is substantially lighter, and so my
hands would shake less during the long exposure.

I’d think the opposite is true. More mass means more inertia means less shaking.

very true.
JH
Jim Hargan
Dec 27, 2005
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:29:20 +0100, Greg N. wrote:

Jim Hargan wrote:

By your definition, the 12 megapix image will always have double the resolution. *But* the 6 megapix camera is substantially lighter, and so my hands would shake less during the long exposure.

I’d think the opposite is true. More mass means more inertia means less shaking.

Makes sense, but …

More mass means that you have to use more muscle to overcome the force of gravity. The more you tense your muscles, the more you shake.

Big lenses make this much worse, by weighting the camera forward. You have to apply a backward twisting motion with your wrists. A certain amount of shake is inevitable.

But you’re right; your results may vary. A lot. It depends on you and your camera. Mass can help, but only if the weight distributes nicely and doesn’t cause you to tense your muscles. For instance, I find that a flash grip improves my hand-holding a lot, even though it increases weight by 50% to 75%. The improved grip makes up for it — at least for me.

But enough of discussion! Here’s a test. It’s not meant to prove a point, but merely to help a photographer decide what equipment to use for a given light level. It will come out different for everyone.
1. On a bright day, loosely crumple a big piece of aluminum foil and place it in direct sun.
2. Photograph it at shutter speeds from 1/500, down to 1/15. This is pricey if you use film, but worth it. Note your aperture and speed on each shot.
3. Somewhere on the crumpled foil, there will be a glare spot. At 1/500th,
this will look like a tiny point under 8x/800% magnification. Then, somewhere in the series, it will look like a bigger point. This is the shutter speed where your hand shake has affected the sharpness. Further down the series, it will look like a comma. This is where your hand-holding has gone to the dogs.

This test will show you which combination of camera and lens you can hand-hold under varying circumstances; how you can extend your hand-holding by choosing your lens and body; and when you need to trot out the ol’ tripod.


Jim Hargan
Freelance Photographer and Writer
www.harganonline.com
AI
anonomous individual
Dec 27, 2005
tacit wrote:

The only valid "test" is this: make two images, from the same source under the same light, one at a high resolution and one at a low resolution. Print both side by side, and see which contains more detail.

What are you talking about Tacit?
Are you seriously trying to say an optical enlargement from a film – any film will have more detail than the film itself? I would even dispute a contact print having as much detail as the film it was made from but you would never see the loss with your eyes.

And what of the pre-press industry? Do they expect to get twice as much detail in their camera ready art as the photographer who supplied the photos for it? I think I saw a pre-press guy once. He had a loupe super glued on his right eye. Claimed he could see detail even the press it was destined for couldn’t produce but he just had to have detail… So he thought.

To listen to you and Johan is an exercise in contradiction. The already established base for measuring the quality of an enlargement is the quality you can get from a traditional film enlargement, using traditional optical or even advanced digital photographic equipment.

You and Johan seem very willing to side step many things and introduce bullshit to conceal your preposterous stand in this issue. You (and Johan it seems) are no longer willing to accept an enlargement with as much detail as the original, now you expect it have more.

Your holy attitude is best left for Sundays. If a line is 2 points wide in the original, and that original gets enlarged by a factor of 5, how wide is the line in the enlarged picture, if it is to be the proportionally enlarged line?

If it is to have no more detail then it will break up and disapear as the enlargement grows. Images are not elastic, you know? If it is to maintain it’s appearance as "not lost any detail" then it has to have had detail added to it or it would disapear as it got larger. You simply cannot enlarge a digital image without adding detail to it.

Johan’s suggestion that adding detail should mean inventing extra information in the image where none was in the first place is just a smoke screen better left for CSI and the movie makers.

You can’t enlarge a film without loss of detail yet Johan – himself a user of large format printers and interpolation routines has just said: "not that you cannot interpolate an image without LOOSING quality". So that’s it then.

The jury of peers has made their judgment without ever seeing a single result. How can I argue with such Continental logic? If the line in the question grows in any direction, it must contain more detail than the original or simply vanish.

You seem to think increasing a file size by a factor of 10 does not in itself increase the detail of an image yet in order to *NOT* lose any detail, you have to add some. Sure, it is derived from a near neighbor calculation – even a guess based on mathematical probability but none the less, detail has to be added in order not to lose any in a visual examination, as the image grows. And when you use the math in reverse on an enlarged image, it increases it’s sharpness and perceived detail so a reduced image actually shows a sharper picture than the original.

You still persist in your relentless crusade despite being offered proof – which you don’t want because if *YOU* can’t do it , nobody can, right? Mindless followers of ancient beliefs… It’s what brought Germany down, you know?

When you start to claim adding elements of a picture which were never there in the original is adding detail you are not talking about bits and bytes, you are talking about making up for poor composure, poor focus and other image faults and of cause this can never happen but adding detail to the existing information is essential to the enlargement of it.
N
nomail
Dec 27, 2005
anonomous individual wrote:

Johan’s suggestion that adding detail should mean inventing extra information in the image where none was in the first place is just a smoke screen better left for CSI and the movie makers.

You haven’t understood a word of what I’m saying, have you? What else is new…

First of all. I AGREED with you on (most of) what you said. You CAN make an enlargement by means of interpolation which viewers will like. For example: interpolate a portrait picture and everybody will love it. Nobody is bothered with the fact that you see less skin imperfections than you would see if you’d used a high resolution camera with no interpolation. On the contrary! They may even like the interpolated one better because of this reason.

But now enlarge a group picture of 100 people taken with a digital compact camera. Interpolate that to a 24×36′ print. What will happen is that the people who are in the picture will move closer to your print to see if they can recognise themselves. If the picture was taken with a high resolution camera they would be able to. But now the print was interpolated from a low resolution file they can’t. As a result they will be disappointed with this print. And that has nothing to do with smoke screens or CSI, it’s called ‘real life’.

But of course you know that as well as I do, so your ‘challence’ will certainly not be that group shot… If *I* can select the file, I’ll take you up on that challence any day. I have an EOS 5D as my second camera, but I do not mind getting an extra one for free!


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
N
nomail
Dec 27, 2005
anonomous individual wrote:

When you start to claim adding elements of a picture which were never there in the original is adding detail you are not talking about bits and bytes

You couldn’t be more correct. Detail is not just bits and bytes, they have to be meaningful. Spreading out the same amount of information over more pixels (i.e. more bits and bytes) is NOT the same as adding detail, but apparently to ‘aussies’ it is. Perhaps you should ask your daughter about her discussion on this subject, or perhaps you should search Google groups for it. It has been discussed in length, so I’m not going to do that all over again, thank you.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
T
Tacit
Dec 27, 2005
In article <zL7sf.114277$>,
anonomous individual wrote:

What are you talking about Tacit?

What I’m talking about is very simple.

Take a picture with a digital camera at high resolution. Take a picture of the same scene at low resolution. Enlarge the low res picture until it is the same pixel dimension as the high res image. Which one do you believe will contain more detail?


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
A
Avery
Dec 27, 2005
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 15:09:48 +0100, (Johan W.
Elzenga) wrote:

anonomous individual wrote:

When you start to claim adding elements of a picture which were never there in the original is adding detail you are not talking about bits and bytes

You couldn’t be more correct. Detail is not just bits and bytes, they have to be meaningful. Spreading out the same amount of information over more pixels (i.e. more bits and bytes) is NOT the same as adding detail, but apparently to ‘aussies’ it is. Perhaps you should ask your daughter about her discussion on this subject, or perhaps you should search Google groups for it. It has been discussed in length, so I’m not going to do that all over again, thank you.

Not to all "aussies" Johan. Some of us are quite clever.
A
Avery
Dec 27, 2005
On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 14:53:09 GMT, tacit wrote:

In article <zL7sf.114277$>,
anonomous individual wrote:

What are you talking about Tacit?

What I’m talking about is very simple.

Take a picture with a digital camera at high resolution. Take a picture of the same scene at low resolution. Enlarge the low res picture until it is the same pixel dimension as the high res image. Which one do you believe will contain more detail?

That is a very simple test to do and shows your point extremely well. The only change I would make would be to make sure that the scene has plenty of detail – like a printed page or a bare tree with well defined branches and twigs. It is easy to take a low res photo of a blue sky and upsize it to whatever you want.
N
nomail
Dec 28, 2005
Avery wrote:

You couldn’t be more correct. Detail is not just bits and bytes, they have to be meaningful. Spreading out the same amount of information over more pixels (i.e. more bits and bytes) is NOT the same as adding detail, but apparently to ‘aussies’ it is. Perhaps you should ask your daughter about her discussion on this subject, or perhaps you should search Google groups for it. It has been discussed in length, so I’m not going to do that all over again, thank you.

Not to all "aussies" Johan. Some of us are quite clever.

Point taken! 😉 It wasn’t meant as an insult. In the discussion with Doughs daughter some time ago, it turned out that she (and Dough as well) is using the word ‘detail’ in a different way than most of us. It was even discussed that this could be the way all ‘aussies’ use that word. To her, making an image sharper is the same as ‘adding detail’. That’s one reason why they insist that their interpolation routine ‘adds detail’, even though Dough confirms that his method could also not make an illegible licence plate legible after upsizing (which would be the true meaning of ‘adding detail’). A lot of the heated discussion turned out to be a simple problem of semantics.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
D
DBLEXPOSURE
Dec 29, 2005
wrote in message
Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Admittedly I haven’t read every answer in the thread, Perhaps your question has been answered already.

My point of view to follow..

The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image. For instance, A small image file of a black square on a white background could possible be printed quite large perhaps upto 72dpi. In short, Detail determines maximum magnification.

With that said, I use a what I call my, "print window", (300dpi – 150dpi). If the print size I want falls between those two numbers, I’ll give er a go. If I am at the low end of the scale and unsure If I want to waste the ink I will copy a portion of the image, ( a portion containing fine detail ), and print it at the target dpi and inspect the results for quality. If I think the detail held up to the abuse, then I will print the entire image. The thin here is, the computer screen will never show you what the detail in your final print will look like. You gotta print it to find out.

When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.
AI
anonomous individual
Dec 29, 2005
DBLEXPOSURE wrote:
wrote in message

Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Admittedly I haven’t read every answer in the thread, Perhaps your question has been answered already.

My point of view to follow..

The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image. For instance, A small image file of a black square on a white background could possible be printed quite large perhaps upto 72dpi. In short, Detail determines maximum magnification.
With that said, I use a what I call my, "print window", (300dpi – 150dpi). If the print size I want falls between those two numbers, I’ll give er a go. If I am at the low end of the scale and unsure If I want to waste the ink I will copy a portion of the image, ( a portion containing fine detail ), and print it at the target dpi and inspect the results for quality. If I think the detail held up to the abuse, then I will print the entire image. The thin here is, the computer screen will never show you what the detail in your final print will look like. You gotta print it to find out.
When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.
Careful here…
Saying "The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image."

….Will get you shouted down by the dynamic duo of NetCops: Johan and Tacit who claim detail is elements of the picture, not information which provides sharp images.


Anonymouse?
D
DBLEXPOSURE
Dec 29, 2005
"anonomous individual" wrote in message
DBLEXPOSURE wrote:
wrote in message

Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Admittedly I haven’t read every answer in the thread, Perhaps your question has been answered already.

My point of view to follow..

The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image. For instance, A small image file of a black square on a white background could possible be printed quite large perhaps upto 72dpi. In short, Detail determines maximum magnification.

With that said, I use a what I call my, "print window", (300dpi – 150dpi). If the print size I want falls between those two numbers, I’ll give er a go. If I am at the low end of the scale and unsure If I want to waste the ink I will copy a portion of the image, ( a portion containing fine detail ), and print it at the target dpi and inspect the results for quality. If I think the detail held up to the abuse, then I will print the entire image. The thin here is, the computer screen will never show you what the detail in your final print will look like. You gotta print it to find out.

When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.
Careful here…
Saying "The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image."

…Will get you shouted down by the dynamic duo of NetCops: Johan and Tacit who claim detail is elements of the picture, not information which provides sharp images.


Anonymouse?

Lol… I don’t care who shouts and for why they do it. I don’t get caught up in all the hair splitting. My motto is, the proof is in the pudding. If an image looks good even though the hair splitters say it can’t because the numbers say so, then I have another reason to chuckle. And laughter is good for the soul….

I would like to shoot a white piece of paper and then print it at 8 feet by 10 feet and watch the hair splitters stand with their nose against it and tell me it sucks. That would be very good medicine for my soul… lolololo… And then, I could make a photograph of that… :^}
J
jaSPAMc
Dec 30, 2005
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 16:06:15 -0600, "DBLEXPOSURE" found these unused words floating about:

"anonomous individual" wrote in message
DBLEXPOSURE wrote:
wrote in message

Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Admittedly I haven’t read every answer in the thread, Perhaps your question has been answered already.

My point of view to follow..

The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image. For instance, A small image file of a black square on a white background could possible be printed quite large perhaps upto 72dpi. In short, Detail determines maximum magnification.

With that said, I use a what I call my, "print window", (300dpi – 150dpi). If the print size I want falls between those two numbers, I’ll give er a go. If I am at the low end of the scale and unsure If I want to waste the ink I will copy a portion of the image, ( a portion containing fine detail ), and print it at the target dpi and inspect the results for quality. If I think the detail held up to the abuse, then I will print the entire image. The thin here is, the computer screen will never show you what the detail in your final print will look like. You gotta print it to find out.

When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.
Careful here…
Saying "The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image."

…Will get you shouted down by the dynamic duo of NetCops: Johan and Tacit who claim detail is elements of the picture, not information which provides sharp images.


Anonymouse?

Lol… I don’t care who shouts and for why they do it. I don’t get caught up in all the hair splitting. My motto is, the proof is in the pudding. If an image looks good even though the hair splitters say it can’t because the numbers say so, then I have another reason to chuckle. And laughter is good for the soul….

I would like to shoot a white piece of paper and then print it at 8 feet by 10 feet and watch the hair splitters stand with their nose against it and tell me it sucks. That would be very good medicine for my soul… lolololo… And then, I could make a photograph of that… :^}
{heh}

Reminds me of the guys back in the early 60’s who said you * couldn’t * make 30"x45" prints from a 35mm neg !!!
D
DBLEXPOSURE
Dec 30, 2005
"J. A. Mc." wrote in message
On Thu, 29 Dec 2005 16:06:15 -0600, "DBLEXPOSURE" found these unused words floating about:

"anonomous individual" wrote in message
DBLEXPOSURE wrote:
wrote in message

Hello,

I’ve read many of the posts regarding maintaining image quality when resizing… it can really make your head spin after a while! Anyway, I understand some of it, but am still struggling a bit… if someone could help me out with the following I’d much appreciate it.
I am going to be making prints for other people from digital pictures that they send me… the print sizes will be 4×6, 8×10, and 12×16. I need to make sure that I can make fairly high quality prints in these sizes from the files that they send me. So, if they send an image that is 4×6, I need to make sure that it can be resized to print at 12×16 without loss of quality. What properties should I ask for in the files that are being sent to me… dpi, size, etc?

Thanks in advance for your help!
-Dave

Admittedly I haven’t read every answer in the thread, Perhaps your question has been answered already.

My point of view to follow..

The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on
the amount of detail in said image. For instance, A small image file of
a black square on a white background could possible be printed quite large perhaps upto 72dpi. In short, Detail determines maximum magnification.

With that said, I use a what I call my, "print window", (300dpi – 150dpi). If the print size I want falls between those two numbers, I’ll give er a go. If I am at the low end of the scale and unsure If I want to
waste the ink I will copy a portion of the image, ( a portion containing
fine detail ), and print it at the target dpi and inspect the results for
quality. If I think the detail held up to the abuse, then I will print the entire image. The thin here is, the computer screen will never show
you what the detail in your final print will look like. You gotta print
it to find out.

When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As
I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.
Careful here…
Saying "The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image."

…Will get you shouted down by the dynamic duo of NetCops: Johan and Tacit who claim detail is elements of the picture, not information which provides sharp images.


Anonymouse?

Lol… I don’t care who shouts and for why they do it. I don’t get caught up in all the hair splitting. My motto is, the proof is in the pudding. If
an image looks good even though the hair splitters say it can’t because the
numbers say so, then I have another reason to chuckle. And laughter is good
for the soul….

I would like to shoot a white piece of paper and then print it at 8 feet by
10 feet and watch the hair splitters stand with their nose against it and tell me it sucks. That would be very good medicine for my soul… lolololo… And then, I could make a photograph of that… :^}
{heh}

Reminds me of the guys back in the early 60’s who said you * couldn’t * make
30"x45" prints from a 35mm neg !!!

I agree, There are so many that are, "Queer for the gear", ( I like my toys to ), But there are so many pixel counters out there it gets to be too funny at times. I think many of these types are too right brained to create any art worth looking at. I’ll take a $4.99 disposable and a good composition any day over a 12MP snap shot….

Now back to counting pixels… 1,2,3,4,…… lol
YD
yodel_dodel
Dec 30, 2005
DBLEXPOSURE wrote:

I’ll take a $4.99 disposable and a good
composition any day over a 12MP snap shot….

That’s certainly OK, but it makes your you like a vegetarian trolling about in a meatlovers forum.


Gregor’s Motorradreisen:
http://hothaus.de/greg-tour/
A
Avery
Dec 30, 2005
On the basis of this thread I have decided that my 6.5 Mpixel DSLR is a complete waste of time. It is heavy – especially with one of those really annoying long lenses . I have thrown it away. Dumped it.

It was far too heavy to take sharp photos so it just had to go, and as I can upsize any photo I take to at least an acre and a half of printed page without any loss of detail and, perhaps, even some added detail wherever i want, I have even burned my digicams, both my trusty old Minolta 35mm and my very, very old Bronica.

I now have a 1.2 Megapixel phonecam. Very light, so it should be sharp as a tack – or better, and what the hell , 60" wide prints, here I come.

Thank you all.
N
nomail
Dec 30, 2005
anonomous individual wrote:

Careful here…
Saying "The size at which you can print a digital file is very much dependant on the amount of detail in said image."

…Will get you shouted down by the dynamic duo of NetCops: Johan and Tacit who claim detail is elements of the picture, not information which provides sharp images.

Again you’ve got it wrong, but that’s no surprise. The point is exactly right. A black square on a white background can be printed sharply at any resolution (providing it is not slanted). As I’ve said before (but suddenly you do not respond to that subthread anymore), some pictures can be upscaled very well (like this one) because nobody expects to see more detail when the size increases. And some pictures cannot be upsized very well, because people do expect to see more detail as the size increases (group shots, a licence plate) and upsizing does not give more detail, only more pixels.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
N
nomail
Dec 30, 2005

J. A. Mc. wrote:

Reminds me of the guys back in the early 60’s who said you * couldn’t * make 30"x45" prints from a 35mm neg !!!

Of course you can make a 30 x 45 inch print from a 35mm negative, you can even go as large as a building. The question is not whether you can do it, but whether people would like the results. For a portrait shot people would, because they would look at it from a distance. The bigger the print, the bigger the viewing distance, so even a 30 x 45 FOOT print could still look nice. A good rule of thumb here is "if it looks good at 12×18 inch, it will probably look good at any size".

But take a group shot of a few hundred people with that same 35mm camera and your 30×45 inch print will look shit. Why? Because it will only show blurred and unrecognizable faces, and that’s not what people expect to see and certainly not what they WANT to see in that print. And what people expect to see is the only thing that really counts. That’s why medium format and large format was never phased out by 35mm.


Johan W. Elzenga johan<<at>>johanfoto.nl Editor / Photographer http://www.johanfoto.nl/
D
DBLEXPOSURE
Dec 30, 2005
I love sarcasm….

But I think you might be missing the point. Acting a bit like Congress. Going from one extreme to the other, (6.3MP IS not an extreme)and not understanding what is going on in the middle.

Photography is by no means an exact science any anyone who treats it that way is going to get all caught up in the numbers and miss the shot. Of course different formats offer different capabilities but that does not make one better than the other, just different. So quit arguing about it. Victory is unattainable from either side.

Your phone cam can produce a 60 inch print if the shot contains elements that will lend themselves to it. Many times detail is not the most important element in the image. Look at the, shroud of Turin, (Spl Chk) It is a horrible likeness of Christ with very little detail yet it has captured the imaginations of tens of thousands if not millions.

Now, if your goal is to be able to count every hair on a monkey’s as that you photographed from 50 meters. Well , then I guess you might want to count some pixels. But not everybody give a shit about how many hairs are on the monkey’s ass. For instance, If that same monkey is juggling hand-grenades then detail becomes less important to the image.

Getting back on track.

To the OP,

When communicating with your clients, tell them this and hope they understand it.

4×6, (1200 X 1800) pixels

8×10, (2400 X 3000) pixels

12×16 (3600 X 4800) Pixels

These number equate to 300dpi prints.

If you can get these images sizes you should always have decent results when printing. This is not to say you can’t go lower if you have to. As I said, it depends on the detail in the image. When going below 300dpi, use the print window and sample print approach.

"Avery" wrote in message
On the basis of this thread I have decided that my 6.5 Mpixel DSLR is a complete waste of time. It is heavy – especially with one of those really annoying long lenses . I have thrown it away. Dumped it.
It was far too heavy to take sharp photos so it just had to go, and as I can upsize any photo I take to at least an acre and a half of printed page without any loss of detail and, perhaps, even some added detail wherever i want, I have even burned my digicams, both my trusty old Minolta 35mm and my very, very old Bronica.

I now have a 1.2 Megapixel phonecam. Very light, so it should be sharp as a tack – or better, and what the hell , 60" wide prints, here I come.

Thank you all.

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