Can’t open adjustment layer

S
Posted By
Steve
Apr 4, 2005
Views
305
Replies
6
Status
Closed
I scanned slides on a Mac with a Nikon coolscan IV and burned them onto a cd. Then I rushed home to my PC and copied the files to my harddrive and opened them (PS 7). Much to my dismay, I cannot create an adjustment layer. The icons are all dimmed at the bottom and the top of the layers pallette, there is nothing active. Every item in the Layer Menu is dimmed. I can, however, rotate the image under Image and sharpen under Filter. I went into explorer and right clicked properties and unchecked "read only"(on the file on my harddrive, NOT the CD) and tried various methods of closing files and PS and even rebooting, no luck.

Did I have some weird box checked in the save dialog box on the Mac that is doing this? I have done this before(same Mac, same scanner) without this problem occuring.

I humbly submit this to all you gurus out there. I hope I’m not doing something stupid.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

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MJ
Monty Jake Monty
Apr 4, 2005
Is the image in 16 bit mode? Image>Mode>16 bit
If so, change it to 8.

Steve

— faith \’fath\ n : firm belief in something for which there is no proof. Webster’s Dictionary

From: "Steve"
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Newsgroups: alt.graphics.photoshop
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:30:55 -0400
Subject: Can’t open adjustment layer

I scanned slides on a Mac with a Nikon coolscan IV and burned them onto a cd. Then I rushed home to my PC and copied the files to my harddrive and opened them (PS 7). Much to my dismay, I cannot create an adjustment layer. The icons are all dimmed at the bottom and the top of the layers pallette, there is nothing active. Every item in the Layer Menu is dimmed. I can, however, rotate the image under Image and sharpen under Filter. I went into explorer and right clicked properties and unchecked "read only"(on the file on my harddrive, NOT the CD) and tried various methods of closing files and PS and even rebooting, no luck.

Did I have some weird box checked in the save dialog box on the Mac that is doing this? I have done this before(same Mac, same scanner) without this problem occuring.

I humbly submit this to all you gurus out there. I hope I’m not doing something stupid.

Thanks in advance,

Steve

H
Husky
Apr 4, 2005
On Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:30:55 -0400, "Steve" wrote:

Change the file type.

I scanned slides on a Mac with a Nikon coolscan IV and burned them onto a cd. Then I rushed home to my PC and copied the files to my harddrive and opened them (PS 7). Much to my dismay, I cannot create an adjustment layer. The icons are all dimmed at the bottom and the top of the layers pallette, there is nothing active. Every item in the Layer Menu is dimmed. I can, however, rotate the image under Image and sharpen under Filter. I went into explorer and right clicked properties and unchecked "read only"(on the file on my harddrive, NOT the CD) and tried various methods of closing files and PS and even rebooting, no luck.

Did I have some weird box checked in the save dialog box on the Mac that is doing this? I have done this before(same Mac, same scanner) without this problem occuring.

I humbly submit this to all you gurus out there. I hope I’m not doing something stupid.

Thanks in advance,

Steve


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S
Steve
Apr 4, 2005
Hooray,hooray, that was it!

That reminds me, I scanned these in 12 bit mode on the Nikon for the extra color info. Do I have to open these all in 8 bit mode in PS?

Steve

"Monty Jake Monty" wrote in message
Is the image in 16 bit mode? Image>Mode>16 bit
If so, change it to 8.

Steve

— faith \’fath\ n : firm belief in something for which there is no
proof.
Webster’s Dictionary

From: "Steve"
Organization: Posted via Supernews, http://www.supernews.com Newsgroups: alt.graphics.photoshop
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2005 12:30:55 -0400
Subject: Can’t open adjustment layer

I scanned slides on a Mac with a Nikon coolscan IV and burned them onto a cd. Then I rushed home to my PC and copied the files to my harddrive
and
opened them (PS 7). Much to my dismay, I cannot create an adjustment
layer.
The icons are all dimmed at the bottom and the top of the layers
pallette,
there is nothing active. Every item in the Layer Menu is dimmed. I can, however, rotate the image under Image and sharpen under Filter. I went
into
explorer and right clicked properties and unchecked "read only"(on the
file
on my harddrive, NOT the CD) and tried various methods of closing files
and
PS and even rebooting, no luck.

Did I have some weird box checked in the save dialog box on the Mac that is doing this? I have done this before(same Mac, same scanner) without
this
problem occuring.

I humbly submit this to all you gurus out there. I hope I’m not doing something stupid.

Thanks in advance,

Steve
T
Tacit
Apr 5, 2005
In article ,
"Steve" wrote:

That reminds me, I scanned these in 12 bit mode on the Nikon for the extra color info. Do I have to open these all in 8 bit mode in PS?

The only advantage to working in high bit color is to be able to make color corrections without introducing banding or posterization. 16-bit images must be converted to 8-bit for other uses.

So, to gain the most benefit from your scans, here’s what you do:

1. Scan the image in high-bit color, and when you make the scan, use your scanner software’s color correction tools to set the proper hilight and shadow points–don’t just blindly click the "scan" button. Set the hilight and shadow for each individual scan you make.

2. Open the high-bit images in Photoshop. Do all your color correction, using the "Levels" and "Curves" commands, until you are satisfied with the color.

3. Convert to 8-bit.

4. Perform all your other image manipulation.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html
S
Steve
Apr 6, 2005
"Tacit" wrote in message
In article ,
"Steve" wrote:

That reminds me, I scanned these in 12 bit mode on the Nikon for the
extra
color info. Do I have to open these all in 8 bit mode in PS?

The only advantage to working in high bit color is to be able to make color corrections without introducing banding or posterization. 16-bit images must be converted to 8-bit for other uses.

Yeah, that’s what I was after. The Nikon only does 12-bit scans.

So, to gain the most benefit from your scans, here’s what you do:
1. Scan the image in high-bit color, and when you make the scan, use your scanner software’s color correction tools to set the proper hilight and shadow points–don’t just blindly click the "scan" button. Set the hilight and shadow for each individual scan you make.

I was wondering if I should do that. The whole setup is accessible to all graphics students. Needless to say, I have to recalibrate the monitor every trip. Even then, I’ve been wondering if there was any point to doing color corections on the scanner, as the scans sometimes look different when I get back to my "perfect" machine.

2. Open the high-bit images in Photoshop. Do all your color correction, using the "Levels" and "Curves" commands, until you are satisfied with the color.

3. Convert to 8-bit.

4. Perform all your other image manipulation.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html

Thanks a lot for the info,

Steve
T
Tacit
Apr 8, 2005
In article ,
"Steve" wrote:

I was wondering if I should do that. The whole setup is accessible to all graphics students. Needless to say, I have to recalibrate the monitor every trip. Even then, I’ve been wondering if there was any point to doing color corections on the scanner, as the scans sometimes look different when I get back to my "perfect" machine.

If you perform the most basic color corrections (at the very least, white point/black point adjustment) in the scanner, the scanner will apply the histogram adjustment to the image as it is being scanned, and hand back a high-bit scan whose white and black popionts are already correct.

If you don’t do it at the time of scan, you’ll get back a high-bit image that may not have the correct white and black points. You can adjust them in Photoshop, with the possible consequence of introducing artifacts such as banding, or exaggerating noise in the shadow end. You will have fewer problems than you would if you were scanning at 8 bits per channel and then setting your white and black points in Photoshop, but it pays to start with the cleanest possible scan nonetheless.


Art, photography, shareware, polyamory, literature, kink: all at http://www.xeromag.com/franklin.html

Must-have mockup pack for every graphic designer 🔥🔥🔥

Easy-to-use drag-n-drop Photoshop scene creator with more than 2800 items.

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