How to get depth

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?

thanks

In article <Yfwng.477399$>,
says...

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

One perception of depth in a two-dimensional depictation is often aided by background atmospherics - the background elements are lower in contrast and probably different in coloration also. Depending on the shot, try punching up the middleground and blurring, lowering the contrast and making the background a bit more blue.

One thing that helps one's depth perception is a definite foreground element: rock outcrop, bush, tree... You might add something to the foreground, as a framing element, but it's usually best to include such in the photograph on site.

Hunt

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

In my opinion, its not the camera that puts depth into a picture, its composition. Its the brain that interprets what it sees into thinking there is depth. It does this by comparing the elements of the scene, in particular, foreground midrange and background objects, and variations in the light due to distance.

R.

"Hunt" wrote in message

In article <Yfwng.477399$>,
says...

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand
Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced
while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife
bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

One perception of depth in a two-dimensional depictation is often aided by background atmospherics - the background elements are lower in contrast and
probably different in coloration also. Depending on the shot, try punching up
the middleground and blurring, lowering the contrast and making the background
a bit more blue.

One thing that helps one's depth perception is a definite foreground element:
rock outcrop, bush, tree... You might add something to the foreground, as a
framing element, but it's usually best to include such in the photograph on
site.

Hunt

You said it so much better than I did, I hate you for it.

There, I feel better now.

R.

I'd have to see the photos to give you a more specific answer, but there is a painter's trick of decreasing the brightness and saturation from objects that you want to recede...see an example at http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7768/2092/640/coolit.jpg

This is done by creating 2 adjustment layers-- one to manipulate the saturation
and another to manipulate the Luminance- and painting on the adjustment mask with a black paintbrush, then radial zoom blurring the masks. (2 separate
masks allows you to manipulate the intensity of each part of the effect separately
by adjusting the opacity of the adjustment layer)
This particular demo was fairly obvious, as it was done to teach the technique,
but you can acheive great subtlety with this technique

The DOF blur, however, was done in camera. I've seen lots of techniques, filters
and plugins that say they can create DOF and bokeh, but they're all more work than getting it
right to begin with.

HTH

"JP Kabala" wrote in message

I'd have to see the photos to give you a more specific answer, but there is a painter's trick of decreasing the brightness and saturation from objects that you want to recede...see an example at http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7768/2092/640/coolit.jpg

This is done by creating 2 adjustment layers-- one to manipulate the saturation
and another to manipulate the Luminance- and painting on the adjustment mask with a black paintbrush, then radial zoom blurring the masks. (2 separate
masks allows you to manipulate the intensity of each part of the effect separately
by adjusting the opacity of the adjustment layer)
This particular demo was fairly obvious, as it was done to teach the technique,
but you can acheive great subtlety with this technique

The DOF blur, however, was done in camera. I've seen lots of techniques, filters
and plugins that say they can create DOF and bokeh, but they're all more work than getting it
right to begin with.

HTH

Thanks so far guys, fortunately in the original composition I have a `foreground` my problem will be the background is 4500 feet away with no in between.

Dunno of this will work but a reduced file size of pic is here,if anyone cares to look....
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/IMG_8315.jpg

"S S" wrote in message news:%Ezng.477427>

Dunno of this will work but a reduced file size of pic is here,if anyone cares to look....
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/IMG_8315.jpg

Reduced file size!!! I should bloody well hope so! 62kb!!!! :o) Anyway - you have only to look at levels to see the problem here! a few tweaks with curves would not go amiss either.

Thanks so far guys, fortunately in the original composition I have a `foreground` my problem will be the background is 4500 feet away with no in between.

Dunno of this will work but a reduced file size of pic is here,if anyone cares to look....
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/IMG_8315.jpg

You don't need depth, you need more contrast to give the rocks more punch. A smaller aperture would have got the whole scene in focus, but I guess it's a bit late for that now. :o)

--
<a href="http://www.derekfountain.org/">Derek Fountain</a> on the web at http://www.derekfountain.org/

"S S" wrote in message

"JP Kabala" wrote in message

I'd have to see the photos to give you a more specific answer, but there is a painter's trick of decreasing the brightness and saturation
from objects that you want to recede...see an example at http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7768/2092/640/coolit.jpg

This is done by creating 2 adjustment layers-- one to manipulate the saturation
and another to manipulate the Luminance- and painting on the adjustment mask with a black paintbrush, then radial zoom blurring the masks. (2 separate
masks allows you to manipulate the intensity of each part of the effect separately
by adjusting the opacity of the adjustment layer)
This particular demo was fairly obvious, as it was done to teach the technique,
but you can acheive great subtlety with this technique

The DOF blur, however, was done in camera. I've seen lots of techniques, filters
and plugins that say they can create DOF and bokeh, but they're all more work than getting it
right to begin with.

HTH

Thanks so far guys, fortunately in the original composition I have a `foreground` my problem will be the background is 4500 feet away with no in between.

Dunno of this will work but a reduced file size of pic is here,if anyone cares to look....
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/IMG_8315.jpg

Convert to LAB, then go to Curves, hit Auto. Done.

On 25-Jun-06 12:24, S S wrote:

"JP Kabala" wrote in message

I'd have to see the photos to give you a more specific answer, but there is a painter's trick of decreasing the brightness and saturation from objects that you want to recede...see an example at http://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/7768/2092/640/coolit.jpg

This is done by creating 2 adjustment layers-- one to manipulate the saturation
and another to manipulate the Luminance- and painting on the adjustment mask with a black paintbrush, then radial zoom blurring the masks. (2 separate
masks allows you to manipulate the intensity of each part of the effect separately
by adjusting the opacity of the adjustment layer)
This particular demo was fairly obvious, as it was done to teach the technique,
but you can acheive great subtlety with this technique

The DOF blur, however, was done in camera. I've seen lots of techniques, filters
and plugins that say they can create DOF and bokeh, but they're all more work than getting it
right to begin with.

HTH

Thanks so far guys, fortunately in the original composition I have a `foreground` my problem will be the background is 4500 feet away with no in between.

Dunno of this will work but a reduced file size of pic is here,if anyone cares to look....
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h194/scudo/IMG_8315.jpg

Part of the problem is lighting. Take a look at the shadows under the benches. The sun is almost directly overhead. You're not going to get much play between shadows and highlights which is where a lot of the dimension will come from in a photograph.

As a few others replied, try messing with the Levels to get a stronger black and white and maybe try burning the sky in.

--
JD..

Try a curves adjustment layer to improve the contrast in the distance. Make the adjustment so that the canyon looks right-- do't worry about the benches in the foreground
Then paint on the adjustment layer mask in black (to completely negate the changes) or a shade of gray (to reduce the amount of change) over the foreground area if that area looks too harsh.

See the image here (click the image to enlarge)
http://jkabala.blogspot.com/

When I viewed your small photo, I saw the haze that's far too common in summer landscapes. Here's how I deal with it:
Duplicate the layer.
Apply USM: amount ~50, R ~ 100 - 200 (200 in this case) to the duplicate layer.
Vary the blend mode - in this instance, Overlay "punches up" the contrast very nicely.
Watch the histogram and reduce the duplicate layer transparency until you're satisfied that you haven't blown the highlights and/or blocked up the shadows. In this case 80% transparency seems optimum,

This simple technique "punches up" the detail in the foreground while the far background gains only a little contrast. To my eye, the "depth" you are looking for has been achieved.

Since learning this technique, I at least try it on nearly every photo I take. The in-camera contrast is set to minimum to maximize the dynamic range in the capture. Then Photoshop takes over to optimize the contrast.

Regards,
David "Routemeister" Thompson
http://home.rochester.rr.com/backroads/

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

Thanks guys I have printed off the replies and will work on them over the next couple of days, should be fun.

been a great help, thanks

"Routemeister" wrote in message

When I viewed your small photo, I saw the haze that's far too common in summer landscapes. Here's how I deal with it:
Duplicate the layer.
Apply USM: amount ~50, R ~ 100 - 200 (200 in this case) to the duplicate layer.
Vary the blend mode - in this instance, Overlay "punches up" the contrast very nicely.
Watch the histogram and reduce the duplicate layer transparency until you're satisfied that you haven't blown the highlights and/or blocked up the shadows. In this case 80% transparency seems optimum,
This simple technique "punches up" the detail in the foreground while the far background gains only a little contrast. To my eye, the "depth" you are looking for has been achieved.

Since learning this technique, I at least try it on nearly every photo I take. The in-camera contrast is set to minimum to maximize the dynamic range in the capture. Then Photoshop takes over to optimize the contrast.
Regards,
David "Routemeister" Thompson
http://home.rochester.rr.com/backroads/

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

In article ,
says...

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

In my opinion, its not the camera that puts depth into a picture, its composition. Its the brain that interprets what it sees into thinking there is depth. It does this by comparing the elements of the scene, in particular, foreground midrange and background objects, and variations in the light due to distance.

R.

I don't know Rudy, you seem to have said it quite well!

Hunt

"Hunt" wrote in message

In article ,
says...

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand
Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back
home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?
thanks

In my opinion, its not the camera that puts depth into a picture, its composition. Its the brain that interprets what it sees into thinking there
is depth. It does this by comparing the elements of the scene, in particular, foreground midrange and background objects, and variations in the light due to distance.

R.

I don't know Rudy, you seem to have said it quite well!

Hunt

Thanks !!

"S S" wrote in message

I just came back from USA to UK and while there took some pics of the grand Canyon although the pics are ok they do not capture the depth as experienced while standing there. Unfortunately 2 days after arriving back home my wife bought me a Nikon D50 SLR I am sure that would have helped! Anyhow any techniques to try and add depth to a couple of the pics?

Increasing contrast and color saturation using curves in the Lab color space is very effective with the subject matter and colors in canyon images. Dan Margulis has written a book called "Photoshop LAB color" aka "The Canyon Conundrum", and it has a chapter devoted to improving canyon images.

If you'd like, post one of your images to the "interesting images" thread on the curvemeister forum, and some of us will have a go at it. --
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/