Good Tutorial for Making Halftones & Line Screens for Print?

SF
Posted By
Sens Fan Happy In Ohio
Aug 3, 2004
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Does anyone know a good website (or manual – book or electronic) that can help me to better understand and create halftone images in 110-line format? My company is beginning a new catalogue project using a few grayscale images and would like them to be print ready after being placed into CorelDraw 10 (where all of the text is) and then printed out to an HP 1120C printer to be sent to print. I’m from an old school of doing things with actual darkroom cameras, screens and such then pasting the art into the finished pages. But they want none of that.

Help?!?!


Kyle

Reply address is fake. Please send all praise, abuse, insults, bequests of $1million US dollars to sensfan_luvslisa (at) yahoo (dot) ca. Change the obvious to the obvious. Oh, and if you must abuse or insult, don’t expect a reply. Money gets faster attention ;o)

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EG
Eric Gill
Aug 3, 2004
"Sens Fan Happy In Ohio" wrote in
news:410edcd4$0$94569$:

Does anyone know a good website (or manual – book or electronic) that can help me to better understand and create halftone images in 110-line format?

It’s pretty simple. You output to a postscript device and indicate in the print menu what you want your lpi to be. If you are using a laser printer, you make sure any kind of "resolution enhancement " is off.

My company is beginning a new catalogue project using
a few grayscale images and would like them to be print ready after being placed into CorelDraw 10 (where all of the text is) and then printed out to an HP 1120C printer to be sent to print.

Not gonna happen. Inkjet printer don’t hold a hard enough dot to get a decent paper plate from.

110 lpi would probably take a *true* 1200 dpi device, be that an imagesetter or ultra high-end laser printer. My experience with 600 dpi toner devices indicates they are pushing it at 90.

I’m from an
old school of doing things with actual darkroom cameras, screens and such then pasting the art into the finished pages. But they want none of that.

Help?!?!

Man, you are going to need it. Sounds like the expertise behind the planning on this project is a little lacking.
R
Roberto
Aug 3, 2004
Does anyone know a good website (or manual – book or electronic) that can help me to better understand and create halftone images in 110-line
format?

*** You mean 110 Lines Per Inch? All you need to do is go into Draw’s kick-ass prepress options and specify whatever line screen you want for each plate.

My company is beginning a new catalogue project using a few grayscale
images
and would like them to be print ready after being placed into CorelDraw 10 (where all of the text is) and then printed out to an HP 1120C printer to
be
sent to print.

*** You’ll need access to a postscript laser printer to be able to print custom line screens from any software. At some stage, film will probably be made from your laser prints anyway, so why not get film made directly from your Draw file? This is instead of degrading the artwork by having them shoot your laser sheets. Just embed the fonts in the draw document using the "truedoc" feature and you’re ready to rock.

A laser dot is much rougher than an imagesetter dot. Some service bureaus might balk at separating Draw files, so send them a PDF using Draw’s built-in PDF creation ability. An old-school shop won’t have a problem, there’ll probably be a Draw guru on site.

Make sure you know what your doing re: resolution of the bitmaps in the file, and optimizing the tonal range to take advantage of the widest contrast available.

JD
R
RicSeyler
Aug 4, 2004


Eric Gill wrote:

Not gonna happen. Inkjet printer don’t hold a hard enough dot to get a decent paper plate from.
LOL I had a feller stop by the shop the other day wanting to sell me a kit to make
aluminum plates on my Epson Stylus 3000..
Bet that baby would do purty halftones after the dot gain hits the paper………
"No thanks sir, I prefer my dots round" 😉

110 lpi would probably take a *true* 1200 dpi device, be that an imagesetter or ultra high-end laser printer. My experience with 600 dpi toner devices indicates they are pushing it at 90.

I use the Hurst SmartPlates on my HP 5000 for quickie spot color stuff and I can get
a real good 120 line screen from the 1200dpi. But 120 is max. Sometimes I’ll back it down
to 100-90 if I need a little more contrast or have a large screen on the finished sheet.



Ric Seyler

R
RicSeyler
Aug 4, 2004
Jeff H. wrote:

*** You mean 110 Lines Per Inch? All you need to do is go into Draw’s kick-ass prepress options and specify whatever line screen you want for each plate.
One thing I HATE that Corel dropped after Ver 7 is the ability to align your job numerically on the larger plate size in the Print Preview… I use poly plates
alot and I used to be able to select 12×18.5 print sheet size and then just punch in 1.1"
from top for my gripper margin and all the crops and cut marks would follow..
But no more. Tech said just drag it up…… but the guy not being a printer doesn’t
realize that’s not accurate and my pressman would have fits chasing that floating
gripper margin on every press run… 🙂



Ric Seyler
EG
Eric Gill
Aug 4, 2004
RicSeyler wrote in news:yj7Qc.4362$Mg1.3547
@bignews4.bellsouth.net:

Eric Gill wrote:

Not gonna happen. Inkjet printer don’t hold a hard enough dot to get a decent paper plate from.
LOL I had a feller stop by the shop the other day wanting to sell me a kit to make
aluminum plates on my Epson Stylus 3000..
Bet that baby would do purty halftones after the dot gain hits the paper………
"No thanks sir, I prefer my dots round" 😉

Jesus. What the hell kind of crack is this company on?

110 lpi would probably take a *true* 1200 dpi device, be that an imagesetter or ultra high-end laser printer. My experience with 600 dpi toner devices indicates they are pushing it at 90.

I use the Hurst SmartPlates on my HP 5000 for quickie spot color stuff and I can get
a real good 120 line screen from the 1200dpi. But 120 is max. Sometimes I’ll back it down
to 100-90 if I need a little more contrast or have a large screen on
the
finished sheet.

Consistency is good across the page? No clumping/thin spots?

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