Printing dpi Question

R
Posted By
Roberto
Aug 31, 2003
Views
1111
Replies
16
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Closed
I’m relatively new to Photoshop.

My question is as follows: If I print a 4"x6" photo at 275dpi, when I print the same photo at 8"x10" (or larger) do I have to increase the dpi? If so, is it quadrupled? Or do I use the same dpi?

Thanks!

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EG
Eric Gill
Aug 31, 2003
"Steve" wrote in
news::

I’m relatively new to Photoshop.

My question is as follows: If I print a 4"x6" photo at 275dpi, when I print the same photo at 8"x10" (or larger) do I have to increase the dpi? If so, is it quadrupled? Or do I use the same dpi?

If you are printing on a device that requires 275 PPI for optimal output, it should be 275 ppi no matter what size you’re printing.

However, *you* do not increase the PPI. Nor does Photoshop. Your photo needs to have that resolution or higher to begin with. If it does not, nothing you do will actually change that, and attempting to upsample in PS can easily damage your image.

If you have a smaller image you need printed larger, you must scan (or capture for things like digital cameras) at higher resolution. In your example, the short side of the picture must have at least 2200 pixels; if that photo is 4"x 6" to begin with, you need to scan it at about 550 ppi (hopefully your scanner can actually produce that rez.)
R
Roberto
Sep 1, 2003
Thanks for the response.

I am using a 4.1 megapixel camera. I have a Canon i950 printer.

I have printed a number of 4×6 prints and they look great. I was about to print an 8×10 and was just wondering about the dpi (or is it ppi).

Sounds like I just leave it at 275. Right?

"Eric Gill" wrote in message
"Steve" wrote in
news::

I’m relatively new to Photoshop.

My question is as follows: If I print a 4"x6" photo at 275dpi, when I print the same photo at 8"x10" (or larger) do I have to increase the dpi? If so, is it quadrupled? Or do I use the same dpi?

If you are printing on a device that requires 275 PPI for optimal output, it should be 275 ppi no matter what size you’re printing.
However, *you* do not increase the PPI. Nor does Photoshop. Your photo needs to have that resolution or higher to begin with. If it does not, nothing you do will actually change that, and attempting to upsample in PS can easily damage your image.

If you have a smaller image you need printed larger, you must scan (or capture for things like digital cameras) at higher resolution. In your example, the short side of the picture must have at least 2200 pixels; if that photo is 4"x 6" to begin with, you need to scan it at about 550 ppi (hopefully your scanner can actually produce that rez.)
EG
Eric Gill
Sep 1, 2003
"Steve" wrote in
news::

Thanks for the response.

You bet.

I am using a 4.1 megapixel camera. I have a Canon i950 printer.
I have printed a number of 4×6 prints and they look great. I was about to print an 8×10 and was just wondering about the dpi (or is it ppi).

It’s ppi.

Your printer prints a dot pattern – and it draws those dots out of square pixels.

It gets even more fun if you take it to an offest printer.

Sounds like I just leave it at 275. Right?

Yep. Since you only have so many pixels, it makes no difference when you go to print at a larger size. Plus, resolution of the picture isn’t quite as critical on

Let me emphasize again – don’t try to upsample. Printing something that is a little low rez for the size results in a soft image. Upsampling often results in ugly artifacting, depending on the pic but most especially how much you’re upsampling.
EL
Ed Landau
Sep 2, 2003
Along the same lines (I also have a 4.1MPixel camera)… I tried to reduce the size of my images to save disk space for the hundreds of pics which I know I will never want to print larger than a 4×5… I found that i had to increase the PPI when I reduced the image size. ‘Doesn’t make sense that it would turn out better but it does….

-Ed

"Eric Gill" wrote in message
"Steve" wrote in
news::

Thanks for the response.

You bet.

I am using a 4.1 megapixel camera. I have a Canon i950 printer.
I have printed a number of 4×6 prints and they look great. I was about to print an 8×10 and was just wondering about the dpi (or is it ppi).

It’s ppi.

Your printer prints a dot pattern – and it draws those dots out of square pixels.

It gets even more fun if you take it to an offest printer.
Sounds like I just leave it at 275. Right?

Yep. Since you only have so many pixels, it makes no difference when you
go
to print at a larger size. Plus, resolution of the picture isn’t quite as critical on

Let me emphasize again – don’t try to upsample. Printing something that is a little low rez for the size results in a soft image. Upsampling often results in ugly artifacting, depending on the pic but most especially how much you’re upsampling.
EG
Eric Gill
Sep 2, 2003
"Ed Landau" wrote in
news:HQV4b.8722$:

Along the same lines (I also have a 4.1MPixel camera)… I tried to reduce the size of my images to save disk space for the hundreds of pics which I know I will never want to print larger than a 4×5…

Ed, disk space is now less than 75 cents a *gigabyte*. I think you’re asking for headaches more than anything.

I shot tens of thousands of pics over the past two years. In the format they came off the camera, they are all archived on a single, slim, external firewire hard drive that I can pick up and carry along with my laptop, carry with me to a client location (USB interface, too) or just leave in place and search whenever I need to pull files.

In addition, the drive contains copies of my purchased stock photography, and most of the main archives of the files I create for my main clients, which are not compressed in any form at all.

I
found that i had to increase the PPI when I reduced the image size. ‘Doesn’t make sense that it would turn out better but it does….

No, it really doesn’t. I read your message trying to explain what you’d done, but I’m not sure I followed it.

I’m willing to bet that after you downsampled, you re-saved as JPEG for space savings, and that is what caused the "horrible pixelation" you noted. The fewer pixels, the faster you can see the 4×4 averaging JPEG performs to get it’s comp[ression.
EL
Ed Landau
Sep 3, 2003
I mean "BACKUP"… sorry 🙂
-Ed
"Ed Landau" wrote in message
Hummm…. what’s your back methadology? 🙂

-Ed

"Eric Gill" wrote in message
"Ed Landau" wrote in
news:HQV4b.8722$:

Along the same lines (I also have a 4.1MPixel camera)… I tried to reduce the size of my images to save disk space for the hundreds of pics which I know I will never want to print larger than a 4×5…

Ed, disk space is now less than 75 cents a *gigabyte*. I think you’re asking for headaches more than anything.

I shot tens of thousands of pics over the past two years. In the format they came off the camera, they are all archived on a single, slim,
external
firewire hard drive that I can pick up and carry along with my laptop, carry with me to a client location (USB interface, too) or just leave in place and search whenever I need to pull files.

In addition, the drive contains copies of my purchased stock
photography,
and most of the main archives of the files I create for my main clients, which are not compressed in any form at all.

I
found that i had to increase the PPI when I reduced the image size. ‘Doesn’t make sense that it would turn out better but it does….

No, it really doesn’t. I read your message trying to explain what you’d done, but I’m not sure I followed it.

I’m willing to bet that after you downsampled, you re-saved as JPEG for space savings, and that is what caused the "horrible pixelation" you
noted.
The fewer pixels, the faster you can see the 4×4 averaging JPEG performs
to
get it’s comp[ression.

EG
Eric Gill
Sep 3, 2003
"Ed Landau" wrote in
news:5tc5b.8927$:

I mean "BACKUP"… sorry 🙂

I have three choices: CD-R, DVD-R, or buying more cheap (i.e., 5400 RPM) big IDE drives.

As cheap as the things are, I’m going with the new HD. Several reasons:

1) It’s godawfully faster than DVD or CD, especially since 200 odd gig would involve a torturous amount of swapping.

2) I dunno about DVD (haven’t had it long enough), but CD-R is proving more and more unstable as time goes on. From tech discussions I’ve seen, this seems to be a combo of the makers of both mechanism and drives taking shortcuts.

3) Did I mention it’s fast?

As an alternative to an external case, a swappable drive bay is about $20.
EL
Ed Landau
Sep 3, 2003
I’ve come to the same conclusion… swappable bays for HDDs. Not only are CDs unstable, but the whole DVD-R, +R, +RW, -RW etc. is driving me nuts.

But ok… so I won’t resize my images for the sake of saving space (though I’m already at about 2GB)… but I’d still like to understand why it is that Photoship seems to do better when I increase the PPI when I resize the image to a smaller size…’seems like it should be "inventing" pixels and look worse?

-Ed

"Eric Gill" wrote in message
"Ed Landau" wrote in
news:5tc5b.8927$:

I mean "BACKUP"… sorry 🙂

I have three choices: CD-R, DVD-R, or buying more cheap (i.e., 5400 RPM) big IDE drives.

As cheap as the things are, I’m going with the new HD. Several reasons:
1) It’s godawfully faster than DVD or CD, especially since 200 odd gig would involve a torturous amount of swapping.

2) I dunno about DVD (haven’t had it long enough), but CD-R is proving
more
and more unstable as time goes on. From tech discussions I’ve seen, this seems to be a combo of the makers of both mechanism and drives taking shortcuts.

3) Did I mention it’s fast?

As an alternative to an external case, a swappable drive bay is about $20.
N
noreply
Sep 4, 2003
Hecate …
snip
Actually, I bought the MAxtor 500DV. It’s 50Gb lighter than the other the other drive they do, but its a 7200 rpm disk. And as you can daisy chain 62 of them using firewire… 😉
snip
3) Did I mention it’s fast?

Did I mention mine was faster 😉

As an alternative to an external case, a swappable drive bay is about $20.

I like the external ones. Much easier to take from place to place. And the MAxtor gives you both USB and Firewire connections.



Hecate
(Fried computers a specialty)

But doesn’t it worry you having so much data all on one hard drive? What happens if/when the drive fails? You may recall I was looking at the Maxtor drives some time ago when you were about to buy one and I was also tempted by the 250gb you made me aware of. In the end I went for an external enclosure and a WD 120gb 7200 SE 8mb cache. It came in at £134, you won’t like it because it’s USB 😉 it has solved my backup problem for now and if I want more I can add drives through my swappable bay as they get cheaper. I got an email offer for a 120gb for £60 the other day, sold out by the time I got there:-( and I feel happier having the data distributed among several "potentially failing" hard drives rather than one biggie.

General comment:-
On the topic of failing media often cited as a reason for sticking with film my own experience is that I used to shoot almost exclusively on Agfachrome 50S when I wasn’t shooting almost exclusively on Kodachrome 25 or trying out early Fuji slide film or others (anyone remember Gratispool?) looking back at my slides the Agfa 50S have almost 100% faded, I don’t mean they’re clear I mean every single slide has faded somewhat. K25 has remained as good as I remember them and Fuji some faded some not so faded. They are however all viewable. With a good archive regime I see no reason why any film or digital image shouldn’t be readable in the future without the fading that has occurred with a film-only based system. The problem seems to be in managing the escalatng quantities of data. Five years from now when it may be prudent to change one’s archiving method the work involved will put many off so that six years from now when the media have failed it will be the digital format that will be blamed. Truth is that people most likely try to save far too much of what they shoot, which in turn on, a digital camera, is probably far more than would have been shot on film. When I look back at my own film images I doubt that there is much more than 10% that is really worth anything, either commercially or personally. I mean when am I ever going to sit down with the slide projector and sit through every slide that I’ve saved. Hard pruning at the outset and even harder attention to getting the right image initially would make the archiving problem much more manageable. I don’t wish to be rude but there do seem to be a lot of people taking photos who seem to think that posterity is just going to be falling over itself to get hold of their archived images. But even if posterity IS knocking at your door then CD-R, DVD, HDD, etc., have all made it possible to ATTEMPT the perfect duplicate for archival storage. My faded slides weren’t in with a chance from the word go. Did that become a rant? Easily done isn’t it? For those whose archiving problem isn’t a photo one but graphic art then YMMV.

More general comment:-
As people ask from time to time for recommendations for suppliers here’s a plug for service from ebuyer.com in the UK where I got my drive. Good price, good customer service (I phoned through an amendment to my online order was told that the person to sort it would do so within the hour, checked online and they had) they offer graded postal charges and a two tier service I went for a five day delivery and it turned up spot on the day they said it would. That sort of delivery may not be too unusual for town dwellers but in my remote location it was a good effort. Which is why I mention it. The other day I was looking at a pair of overalls online (was thinking of using Paint Shop Pro) for £14 which again because of where I live would have cost £15 delivery…mad. If I lived on the Isle of Man it would have been £25…madder. (Hmmm, just the colour I wanted the overalls for)

Brian
(the other one)
H
Hecate
Sep 4, 2003
On Thu, 04 Sep 2003 04:09:41 GMT, Eric Gill
wrote:

It’s already for archive, I think, as long as it’s a use one or twice and store carefully medium, but with a lot of images, HDD is the way to go.

Believe it or not, the coatings on CD evaporate gradually. The target was ten years of stability, but that seems to have gone by the wayside.
I lost fifteen files from one hundred of a project just recently, from a nearly pristine CD backup about two years old, and am not happy about it. YMMV.

That’s interesting, as the manufacturers are claiming 100 years now 😉

3) Did I mention it’s fast?

Did I mention mine was faster 😉

Did I mention mine was $187US? And 250GB? ;-}

Or the three other ATA-133/7200RPM drives I actually work off of?

LOL! OK, you win 😉

Seriously – the difference between a CD/DVD and any reasonably modern IDE drive is a lot more than 5,400 and 7,200 RPM. You may be using yours for more than pure backup, but I’m not. The price difference was enough for an obsenely decadent meal with booze at my favorite sushi joint, so cheapness prevailed.

MIne’s mainly backup, but also holds disk images for two computers until we can buy a second one. So, in case a machine dies, we don’t want to have to wait too long to restore the machine. Hence the faster drive. (plus it carries the odd video and the faster speed makes a difference).

As an alternative to an external case, a swappable drive bay is about $20.

I like the external ones.

Me too, but the swappable bay is an cheap alternative, and I’d rather not pay the extra for every redundant archive drive I’ve got to have it’s own box and power supply-only one is online at a time (and not all the time), extending their lives. I’m liking a combination. 250GB is currently large enough for the archives I mentioned earlier.

Makes sense 🙂

Second, the bay is handy for the ocasional disaster recovery I do for clients. It’s a lot easier than temporarily putting a drive in an external case, which in turn beats the crap out of not having a hot- swappable solution.

True 🙂

Much easier to take from place to place. And
the MAxtor gives you both USB and Firewire connections.

Which is damned handy for "sneakernet" file transfers, yes, since USB has won the popularity contest.

Yes, though I think that FW wins for graphics people because of cameras and speed – especially when FW2 is around commonly.



Hecate
(Fried computers a specialty)
H
Hecate
Sep 5, 2003
On 4 Sep 2003 05:26:44 -0700, (mono) wrote:

I like the external ones. Much easier to take from place to place. And the MAxtor gives you both USB and Firewire connections.

But doesn’t it worry you having so much data all on one hard drive?

Nope. HDDs are more reliable than CD and it isn’t the *only* place I store my files – the files are also on the original hard disk, and I still have the original negs and transparencies. Plus all recent files are temporarily backed up on CD. Soon, we’ll have a second disk, and that will mirror the first one. Then we plan two more disks for the other computer and we’ll end up with 400Gb as 2×200 mirrored Firewire drives for each computer, plus CDs of everything currently worked on, plus originals of everything on the computer HDD. And eventually, I suppose we’ll give DVD a try as well.

Thing is, like you’ve rightl;y pointed out, it’s important to have more than one copy of anything essential. However, if I had to have only one I’d rather it was on a HDD. 😉

What happens if/when the drive fails? You may recall I was looking at the Maxtor drives some time ago when you were about to buy one and I was also tempted by the 250gb you made me aware of. In the end I went for an external enclosure and a WD 120gb 7200 SE 8mb cache. It came in at £134, you won’t like it because it’s USB 😉 it has solved my backup problem for now and if I want more I can add drives through my swappable bay as they get cheaper. I got an email offer for a 120gb for £60 the other day, sold out by the time I got there:-( and I feel happier having the data distributed among several "potentially failing" hard drives rather than one biggie.

LOL! Nothing wrong with USB, just that I think FW is more reliable and faster in real terms. And FW2, when it’s common, will be even faster.

General comment:-
On the topic of failing media often cited as a reason for sticking with film my own experience is that I used to shoot almost exclusively on Agfachrome 50S when I wasn’t shooting almost exclusively on Kodachrome 25 or trying out early Fuji slide film or others (anyone remember Gratispool?) looking back at my slides the Agfa 50S have almost 100% faded, I don’t mean they’re clear I mean every single slide has faded somewhat. K25 has remained as good as I remember them and Fuji some faded some not so faded. They are however all viewable.

An interesting point here is that Kodachromes have been shown to last better than any other slide film. For a long time the only slide film I used was K25, 64 and 200.

With a good archive regime I see no reason why any film or digital image shouldn’t be readable in the future without the fading that has occurred with a film-only based system. The problem seems to be in managing the escalatng quantities of data. Five years from now when it may be prudent to change one’s archiving method the work involved will put many off so that six years from now when the media have failed it will be the digital format that will be blamed. Truth is that people most likely try to save far too much of what they shoot, which in turn on, a digital camera, is probably far more than would have been shot on film. When I look back at my own film images I doubt that there is much more than 10% that is really worth anything, either commercially or personally. I mean when am I ever going to sit down with the slide projector and sit through every slide that I’ve saved.

LOL! I have a "back catalogue" of fifteen years unarchived. Only since 1996 have I been properly archiving stuff. One day… 😉

Hard pruning at
the outset and even harder attention to getting the right image initially would make the archiving problem much more manageable. I don’t wish to be rude but there do seem to be a lot of people taking photos who seem to think that posterity is just going to be falling over itself to get hold of their archived images. But even if posterity IS knocking at your door then CD-R, DVD, HDD, etc., have all made it possible to ATTEMPT the perfect duplicate for archival storage. My faded slides weren’t in with a chance from the word go. Did that become a rant? Easily done isn’t it? For those whose archiving problem isn’t a photo one but graphic art then YMMV.

Understand. It does depend on storage of course. Did you know, for example, that slides/negs shouldn’t be stored in wooden boxes/cabinets because would gives off a chemical which attacks the emulsion?

As far as digital archiving goes, yes,prune comprehensively but then, to be safe, you need to store as uncompressed images which you recopy every ten years or so (minimum) because magnetic storage is prone to losing bits as well (plus see Eric’s comment about CD).



Hecate
(Fried computers a specialty)
N
noreply
Sep 5, 2003
Eric Gill wrote in message >
But doesn’t it worry you having so much data all on one hard drive?
Much less so than on any number of CDs. That’s what I was trying to get across.

I was thinking one hard drive as compared with two or more smaller ones, so you don’t lose all data at one go if the drive fails. I suppose I’m also thinking of the £/$ loss of a large dead drive, ouch.

General comment:-
On the topic of failing media often cited as a reason for sticking with film

Actually, if I were shooting film still, I’d probably be losing negs from the archives – too many, and I suck at real-world organization.
Secondly, as you note, lots of film will fade unless you can store it in a controlled environment, preferably in a neutral atmosphere.
A hard drive sitting in a closed case on a shelf is damned near immortal.
A digital file doesn’t degrade when copied. I don’t miss internegs and the like.

Agreed. This is what I was saying where, from this point in time on, I can’t see any reason for digital or digitised images to suffer the degradation that I for one experienced with some of my slides. If I’d had digital technology at my disposal back then and had succesfully archived my images to this day the fact that the original slides were slowly fading wouldn’t matter. As I still shoot film I’m hoping that my well disciplined archiving will see my images survive into the future as unfaded digitals.
Spot the flaw in my argument…(clue : "well disiplined")

And, lastly, the 9/11 tragedy provides us with a testimony of how much more dureable electronic media is than film, in the story of Bill Biggart’s final shots:

http://www.skfriends.com/wtc-biggart-album.htm

"When Chip East was handed the bag containing Biggart’s gear by his widow, Wendy, he was convinced that no pictures had survived. The avalanche of falling debris had blown off the backs of the two film cameras. There were several rolls of film in Biggart’s bag; however, the lids of the film canisters had been peeled back, allowing light to fall into the cassettes. Finally, East turned his attention to the digital camera. It was covered by ash. The lens had been sheared off at the flange. But when he opened the chamber that held the compact flash card, it was pristine."

However in a case where both cameras are damaged rendering the card unreadable and the film transport unusable yet film canister intact, the latent images on the film are eminently more easy to retrieve. In some ways I would argue that film in the short term is the more durable, once developed and fixed those images can’t be erased by any electro magnetic means and aren’t going to disappear if the location of their storage gets a whacking great dent in it (filing cabinet versus hard drive). But of course this is where redundant storage of digital archives wins out. Film also isn’t susceptible to ever increasing file sizes as technology develops. A really cheap and nasty 35mm camera yields a tolerable snapshooters image on a 35mm filmstrip, a top of the range 35mm slr with the best lenses yields a much better quality image but still on the 35mm film package. Storage size equal. The difference between a webcam and a DSLR for file size is enormous and growing, hence our problem.

It’s interesting that the consensus seems to be that hard drives are the current preferred storage method. All these new developments and the one we’ve had all the time was staring us in the face saying me! me!
I listened and now back up to a hard drive that most of the time sits on my desk just looking svelte in its shiny enclosure. I also backup to CD-R but only stuff I consider important and when that £60 offer for a 120gb drive comes round again I’ll no doubt be backing up to two hard drives and fewer CD-Rs.
(…but will I ever have time to take another picture again)

Brian
(the other one)
EG
Eric Gill
Sep 5, 2003
Hecate wrote in
news::

On Thu, 04 Sep 2003 04:09:41 GMT, Eric Gill
wrote:

It’s already for archive, I think, as long as it’s a use one or twice and store carefully medium, but with a lot of images, HDD is the way to go.

Believe it or not, the coatings on CD evaporate gradually. The target was ten years of stability, but that seems to have gone by the wayside.

I lost fifteen files from one hundred of a project just recently, from a nearly pristine CD backup about two years old, and am not happy about it. YMMV.

That’s interesting, as the manufacturers are claiming 100 years now 😉

That’s DVD, IIRC. Still, it *was* supposed to be 10 years.

3) Did I mention it’s fast?

Did I mention mine was faster 😉

Did I mention mine was $187US? And 250GB? ;-}

Or the three other ATA-133/7200RPM drives I actually work off of?

LOL! OK, you win 😉

Nah. These guys:

http://www.aberdeeninc.com/ABCATG/Stirling-S416.htm

wouldn’t even notice us "competing." Got $12,000USD sitting around?

BTW – even though it’s hard to find, they are using 250GB 10,000 RPM SATA drives. These smoke our 7,200 RPM ATA 100/133s, though they are yet a bit pricey. A couple for a SATA RAID in about six months…

Seriously – the difference between a CD/DVD and any reasonably modern IDE drive is a lot more than 5,400 and 7,200 RPM. You may be using yours for more than pure backup, but I’m not. The price difference was enough for an obsenely decadent meal with booze at my favorite sushi joint, so cheapness prevailed.

MIne’s mainly backup, but also holds disk images for two computers until we can buy a second one. So, in case a machine dies, we don’t want to have to wait too long to restore the machine.

Yep. Be careful, though – for some asinine reason, motherboards are becoming more and more incompatible with each others’ drivers. I thought I had lost a MB a few weeks back and went about replacing it. Normally, Windows boots it’s bare compatibility drivers and asks for the ones for the new motherboard, but instead it just crashed and I wound up re- installing. Ye ghods, that takes a long time!

A quick trip to the tech community and I find this is getting to be commonplace. Yuck.

A case of pints for anyone who can tell me how to easily delete the MB- specific drivers in such a case (remember to assume the old MB is not working!)

Hence the faster
drive. (plus it carries the odd video and the faster speed makes a difference).
<snip>

Much easier to take from place to place. And
the MAxtor gives you both USB and Firewire connections.

Which is damned handy for "sneakernet" file transfers, yes, since USB has won the popularity contest.

Yes, though I think that FW wins for graphics people because of cameras and speed – especially when FW2 is around commonly.

‘course. But I meant the USB is about as popular as CD drives these days, so you can throw a bunch of files on anyone’s machine you care to, even if it won’t win a speed contest.
H
Hecate
Sep 5, 2003
On Fri, 05 Sep 2003 13:30:34 GMT, Eric Gill
wrote:

That’s interesting, as the manufacturers are claiming 100 years now 😉

That’s DVD, IIRC. Still, it *was* supposed to be 10 years.

Ah, my mistake 🙂

3) Did I mention it’s fast?

Did I mention mine was faster 😉

Did I mention mine was $187US? And 250GB? ;-}

Or the three other ATA-133/7200RPM drives I actually work off of?

LOL! OK, you win 😉

Nah. These guys:

http://www.aberdeeninc.com/ABCATG/Stirling-S416.htm

wouldn’t even notice us "competing." Got $12,000USD sitting around?
BTW – even though it’s hard to find, they are using 250GB 10,000 RPM SATA drives. These smoke our 7,200 RPM ATA 100/133s, though they are yet a bit pricey. A couple for a SATA RAID in about six months…

ROFL!

MIne’s mainly backup, but also holds disk images for two computers until we can buy a second one. So, in case a machine dies, we don’t want to have to wait too long to restore the machine.

Yep. Be careful, though – for some asinine reason, motherboards are becoming more and more incompatible with each others’ drivers. I thought I had lost a MB a few weeks back and went about replacing it. Normally, Windows boots it’s bare compatibility drivers and asks for the ones for the new motherboard, but instead it just crashed and I wound up re- installing. Ye ghods, that takes a long time!

Thanks for the heads up. Bast**ds!

Yeah, it took me four weeks off and on to get my new machine back to how I had the old one – first you load what you need immediately, then each app as you need it and so forth.

A quick trip to the tech community and I find this is getting to be commonplace. Yuck.

It’s so stupid as well. One of the reasons for PCs is their interoperability. If they’re going to be proprietary you may as well buy a Mac 😉

Which is damned handy for "sneakernet" file transfers, yes, since USB has won the popularity contest.

Yes, though I think that FW wins for graphics people because of cameras and speed – especially when FW2 is around commonly.

‘course. But I meant the USB is about as popular as CD drives these days, so you can throw a bunch of files on anyone’s machine you care to, even if it won’t win a speed contest.

Right. 🙂



Hecate
(Fried computers a specialty)
H
Hecate
Sep 5, 2003
On 5 Sep 2003 01:40:11 -0700, (mono) wrote:

But doesn’t it worry you having so much data all on one hard drive?

Nope. HDDs are more reliable than CD and it isn’t the *only* place I store my files – the files are also on the original hard disk, and I still have the original negs and transparencies. Plus all recent files are temporarily backed up on CD. Soon, we’ll have a second disk, and that will mirror the first one. Then we plan two more disks for the other computer and we’ll end up with 400Gb as 2×200 mirrored Firewire drives for each computer, plus CDs of everything currently worked on, plus originals of everything on the computer HDD. And eventually, I suppose we’ll give DVD a try as well.
Any thoughts/opinions on the one touch backup on the Maxtor drives? Do you use the Dantz software or do you have another preferred one? By the way with your projected HDD expansion plans should I be buying Maxtor shares now or are you going to need to borrow my begging bowl before it all comes about?
One touch is a good idea. Except for the software. The Dantz software that came with my drive would only let you back up the whole C drive or nothing. No sorting particular folders and so forth. And then they wanted $49.95 to upgrade to the Pro version. No thanks. After the example of their "free" and useless software I’d rather buy from someone else even if it costs more.

We’re trying out several different back-up solutions at the moment, but haven’t found the one we like yet. Backups are manual at the moment (yuck) until we’re happy with a solution. Image backups are easy with Drive Image 7 though (or Ghost – we prefer DI7).

LOL! If anyone’s buying Maxtor shares it should be us! However, we’ll probably need to rent your begging bowl (at a reasonable charge of course) if we wanted to do it in the near future 😉



Hecate
(Fried computers a specialty)
EG
Eric Gill
Sep 6, 2003
Hecate wrote in
news::

One touch is a good idea. Except for the software. The Dantz software that came with my drive would only let you back up the whole C drive or nothing. No sorting particular folders and so forth. And then they wanted $49.95 to upgrade to the Pro version. No thanks. After the example of their "free" and useless software I’d rather buy from someone else even if it costs more.

I loved Retrospect right up until they brought out a PC version, which wasn’t compatible with my Mac-made tapes. I spent about an hour talking to one of their software engineers who seemed to be astounded at the suggestion, gave up and gradually moved about 20-odd GB to CD.

We’re trying out several different back-up solutions at the moment, but haven’t found the one we like yet. Backups are manual at the moment (yuck) until we’re happy with a solution. Image backups are easy with Drive Image 7 though (or Ghost – we prefer DI7).

You know the backup that comes with Windows, while not best of class, is not bad. You select drives, directories, and/or files and the target and that’s about it, unless you want to do some scheduling.

http://www.itworld.com/nl/win_admin_tips/06072002/

It’s in the same place for 2K/PRO as well.

For Archival backups that you will access on a regular basis (i.e., pull a file or two), hand copying then Find is just as fast as a database- driven system like Retrospect.

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