Hue/Saturation question

MS
Posted By
Mark_Sand
Apr 20, 2004
Views
184
Replies
7
Status
Closed
I am converting a color portrait to sepia. The first thing I did was erase all but the subject. Then I created a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer, clicked the Colorize box, and adjusted the Hue, Saturation, and Lightness sliders to get the sepia tone. Then I went back to the original layer to paint in some modifications. I used the Eyedropper tool to select a sepia shade, but the painted shade ended up different than the selected one.

After much experimenting I discovered that the problem was with the Lightness slider when I created the adjustment layer. If I did not adjust the Lightness (left it to default value 0) I did not have the problem, but if I changed the Lightness when creating the layer, the resulting paint shade was darker or lighter accordingly.

I’m guessing the problem is that the lightness of the 2 layers is different. If this is the case, is there a way to tie the lightness of the layers together so as to avoid the problem?

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JF
Jodi_Frye
Apr 20, 2004
….one way> turn off the visibilty of the hue/sat adjustment layer before sampling color from the original… click off eyeball icon on adjustment layer in palette to do that.
BG
Byron Gale
Apr 20, 2004
wrote
…I went back to the original layer to paint in some modifications. I
used the Eyedropper tool to select a sepia shade, but the painted shade ended up different than the selected one.

Mark,

You won’t be able to sample your sepia color because it only exists as a result of the Hue/Sat layer — and you can’t use the eyedropper to pick up color from there. If you’re going back to the original layer to pick up color, you will pick up original color.

One way would be to create a new layer which contains the merged contents of the original layer and the adjustment layer. This can be done by creating a new, blank layer at the top of your layers palette. Then, with the new blank layer selected, press CTRL-ALT-SHIFT-E simultaneously. (If you’re on a Mac, use the appropriate Mac keys instead of CTRL and ALT)

This does a "stamp visible", essentially flattening the visible parts of your image onto the new layer, so that your original layers are not disturbed. Now you can use that new layer as you wish, such as just a place from which to sample color or as the basis for your image going forward.

HTH,

Byron
MS
Mark_Sand
Apr 20, 2004
Jodi, I want to sample a sepia color from the adjustment layer, not from the original, so if I turn off the visibility of the adjustment layer I have nothing to sample!
MS
Mark_Sand
Apr 20, 2004
Byron,
Neat trick!
Thanks, Mark
TF
Terri_Foster
Apr 20, 2004
If you don’t have as much dexterity as Byron, you can also do his trick by holding down the alt key going to the layers palette clicking on more button…keep that alt button depressed and click on merge visible. I use the stamp visible layers ALL the time. Really great for working on multi layered projects since you still have the original layers. Great for those of us who frequently change our minds.

Terri
JF
Jodi_Frye
Apr 20, 2004
Sorry Mark, I guess i read your post incorrectly. As Byron directed you is a good start otherwise.
KL
Kenneth_Liffmann
Apr 20, 2004
Mark,
I just had occasion to adjust foreground and background individually on a picture file. It did not involve colorizing, though. You may want to look at this:
1. Select area with lasso, feathering 5-10 pixels
2. Create levels adjustment layer #1
3. Press CTRL + right icon in levels adj. layer #1
4. Select original image
5. Select>Inverse
6. Create levels adjustment layer #2
7. Now one can adjust each layer separately by double clicking on left icon for levels control

This technique preserved the individual layers as well. The levels sliders may assist you with the colorization project.
Ken

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