All went ok. I met him is starbucks was a nice chap.
dvd’s are a pain to copy and make labels for so if they aren’t scratched they should be ok. If you have any concerns go to a place where you can play a few and make sure you can play them.
DVDs have the read surface on the bottom. CDs have it on the top where the label goes so you have to look for scratches differently. But by now you have probably tested them. I hope they all are OK.
Bill
CDs have it on the top where the label goes
Huh?
Bob
Everyone is deep in thought. 🙂
Bob
The surface that is "burnt" is on the top with a protective coating/label over it. The lazer passes THROUGH the thick plastic stuff THEN writes. That is why you can buff out a scratch on the bottom of a CD and "repair" it. If you scratch the top coating, wave good by to the disk.
On a DVD, the write layer is at the bottom. The reverse location. The label is just that. It is NOT a protective layer. You can not buff out a scratch on a DVD, you just "break" it more when you try.
Look at a dedicated DVD case. The label is up and the bottom surface does not even touch the case. Even the cases are different because of how they work.
Bill
That’s an odd way to say it Bill, although I see your point.
For clarification, all information is burned from the bottom, for both, CD’s and DVD’s. So I’m not sure what you mean about the reverse location thing.
HMmmm without a scratch pad. and there may be more layers in there.
W (OR READ) = the layer that is etched by the lazer
S = a support layer. The THICK one
P = protective layer – very thin
L = label layer – NOT on the dirt cheap ones.
Z = location of the lazer in the drive
Both of these are top to bottom.
A CD is built:
L
P
W
S – MOST of what you think of as a CD
Z
A single sided DVD is built:
L
S – MOST of what you think is the disk
W
P
Z
A double sided DVD is probably along the lines of:
P
W
S
W
P
Z
Flip it over and everything is still ready to read. The old top which the lazer didn’t "see" is now on the bottom ready to be read and the old bottom is out of the way.
I have NO ideas as to how multiple burning depths work to be able to read several layers on each of the two sides. Ask & I won’t answer.
It is the difference in where in the "stack" the write/read area is that makes double sided DVDs possible.
With the light beam having to pass THROUGH the support layer, a working double sided CD is impossible as the standard now exists. The W-layers would block each other from the lazer. And with DVDs on the market and all the current standard CD equipment out there, I don’t really see it changing.
Perhaps, just perhaps this made it a bit more understandable. I hope so.
Bill
I see your point Bill. Good example.
Hmm…don’t recall ever seeing an dead-empty thread title before. At least not on these forums.
There is a gold layer that the laser can read through on double layer pre recorded dvd’s; The inner layer is alumunum. There is a protective plastic layer on the bottom of a dvd JUST LIKE CD’s only thinner. If you scratch the top (lable) surface enough you will scratch into the dvd aluminum surface JUST LIKE CD’s. A scratch on the bottom of a dvd can be repaired if it isn’t too bad and it isn’t radial. Many home theater dvd player have more error correction when they read a dvd than do dvd-rom players and dvd-burners; that is a dvd with a minor scratch in it may not play correctly on a pc because of a scratch, and it will play just fine on a home theater player. The problems with scratches on dvd’s are just compounded by the amount of data on a dvd as compared to the amount of data on a cd. It is harder for a laser to see "around" the scratch on a dvd than a cd. The readable layer on cd’s and dvd’s is on top.
This has happened to me several times and Im not sure what causes it… but… whats happening is: Normally I have my brushes set to "brush size" and "standard" Just now I was working on an image, had my lasso tool and was selecting an area, my cursor was that of the lasso. Then for no reason at all (atleast to me) the lasso is gone and I now have a precise cursor for my lasso tool. I checked my preferrences, they are still set to standard and brush size.
Ive tried to correct thsi problem a few ways. I have tried to set my prefs to both say precise, ok the prefs, then reopen the prefs and set them back to standard to and brush size and ok the prefs again. No deal. Ive tried restarting PS. No deal. Ive tried emptying my temp folder (that PS uses for scratch) still no deal. Ive tried purging (Edit>Purge>All) no deal. The only thing I havent tried was a complete reboot. The only reason I havent done that is because I just dont want to lol Im going to reboot anyway once I am done here but Id really like to know what causes this problem. Im using PS 7 and its happened to me several times in the past. Ive always solved it by rebooting but thats a royal pain in the arse and I dont feel I should have to do that. Its also happened to be in PS 6 in the past as well. Anyone had this happen? Anyone know how to solve this, short of rebooting or dumping preferrences? Anyone know WHY this happens?
Thanks Jared aka TCH
Your "caps lock" is on-turn off.
The bar can be split with slices. The dividers could be donw with a bevel or embossed line, applied on a layer with an overlay style.
oh! I had no idea cap lock did that! :)thank you lol
I can’t tell you how many times I had exited photoshop and re-started a session because of that before I found out.
No I meant how can I didvide it into buttons like the shape in the website I provided
"matthew hattie" wrote in message
Not really sure if this is what you’re asking. Create the shape of the
tool bar on it’s own layer then double click on the layer and apply bevel/emboss.
Yes I think that’s what I will try to do,and will tell you the results now "Don McCahill" wrote in message
The bar can be split with slices. The dividers could be donw with a bevel
or embossed line, applied on a layer with an overlay style.
yes me too :)) so I posted another thread like it
"Phosphor" wrote in message
Hmm…don’t recall ever seeing an dead-empty thread title before. At least
not on these forums.
Michael,
I’m not saying your wrong, just that isn’t how I was told. Perhaps I was misinformed.
From what you say, I shouldn’t have to have to flip a movie DVD to shift from wide screen to letter box. The machine could just "read through" one layer to get to the next.
But I do have to do the disk flip, both on PC DVD units and a less than 1 year old stand alone reader unit for home theater. Both claim to read multiple recording depths. That seems to match the information I was given.
Bill
