Creating Excellent Grayscale Images

FC
Posted By
Frank_Cahill
Sep 27, 2004
Views
374
Replies
2
Status
Closed
I have obtained mixed results in creating grayscale images. When they come back from the printer, they are often on the dark side. It has damaged my confidence but I am determined to get on top of this.

What I do is: The image is usally a colour (RGB or CMYK) jpg or tif. I know there are different paths to get to grayscale and the best probably depends on the particular image. I should master the tried and true methood first before trying to become too tricky. So what I would do would be to save the image as a PSD file. I would Image>Mode>Grayscale. Generally, I would aim for the tones to fall in the 5% to 95% range. So I would open curves and bring the darkest point down to 95% from 100%. Then I would lift the lightest from 0% to 5%. I would create a bit of an S in the curve (very slightly leaving the curve nice and smooth) to create a bit of contrast. Usually I would not be happy with the contrast so I would use Image>Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast to increase contrast further (usually to somewhere between 8-15 depending on the image). I might fiddle a little more, e.g. sharpen slightly using Unsharp Mask or adjust the image further if there were skin tones, e.g. a portrait (I usually aim for skin tones to be something like 15% – depending again). When I finish adjusting the image, I have usually saved it as a TIFF. I might then do a check via the info palette to make sure all the important pixels fall within the 5% to 95% range. (When some images have come back dark, I have wondered whether I should not change my general guideline to 5% to 90% on the assumption that it is easier to darken a light image at a press check – which I have never done – stage).

One other thing I have done from time to time is to create the image as a 16 bit and done what adjustment I could there. My understanding is that this results in less data loss and gives an overall better result. I have saved back to an 8 bit image before placing the file in the InDesign CS document. While I think this is a good thing to do, I need to get a better command over the basics first.

I like a punchy grayscale image but I like detail in the shadows, at least the important ones. I certainly don’t like the image being too dark; nor do I like it being washed out.

I would appreciate your help, suggestions feedback. I know this is pretty basic but it is something I want to be able to get right (assuming the printer does the right thing) every time.

Thanks. I look forward to your comments and feedback.

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2
2Shy
Feb 5, 2005
Image>Mode>Lab.then highlight the Lightness channel.then convert the image to Grayscale (Image>Mode>Grayscale).
wrote in message
I have obtained mixed results in creating grayscale images. When they come back from the printer, they are often on the dark side. It has damaged my confidence but I am determined to get on top of this.

What I do is: The image is usally a colour (RGB or CMYK) jpg or tif. I know there are different paths to get to grayscale and the best probably depends on the particular image. I should master the tried and true methood first before trying to become too tricky. So what I would do would be to save the image as a PSD file. I would Image>Mode>Grayscale. Generally, I would aim for the tones to fall in the 5% to 95% range. So I would open curves and bring the darkest point down to 95% from 100%. Then I would lift the lightest from 0% to 5%. I would create a bit of an S in the curve (very slightly leaving the curve nice and smooth) to create a bit of contrast. Usually I would not be happy with the contrast so I would use Image>Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast to increase contrast further (usually to somewhere between 8-15 depending on the image). I might fiddle a little more, e.g. sharpen slightly using Unsharp Mask or adjust the image further if there were skin tones, e.g. a portrait (I usually aim for skin tones to be something like 15% – depending again). When I finish adjusting the image, I have usually saved it as a TIFF. I might then do a check via the info palette to make sure all the important pixels fall within the 5% to 95% range. (When some images have come back dark, I have wondered whether I should not change my general guideline to 5% to 90% on the assumption that it is easier to darken a light image at a press check – which I have never done – stage).

One other thing I have done from time to time is to create the image as a 16 bit and done what adjustment I could there. My understanding is that this results in less data loss and gives an overall better result. I have saved back to an 8 bit image before placing the file in the InDesign CS document. While I think this is a good thing to do, I need to get a better command over the basics first.

I like a punchy grayscale image but I like detail in the shadows, at least the important ones. I certainly don’t like the image being too dark; nor do I like it being washed out.

I would appreciate your help, suggestions feedback. I know this is pretty basic but it is something I want to be able to get right (assuming the printer does the right thing) every time.

Thanks. I look forward to your comments and feedback.
R
RSD99
Feb 5, 2005
Go to Russell Brown’s site and download the file(s) for " Seeing in Black & White"
http://www.russellbrown.com/tips_tech.html

Then go to Jeff Alu’s site and read through his how-to
http://www.animalu.com/pics/photos.htm
http://www.animalu.com/pics/process.htm

wrote in message
I have obtained mixed results in creating grayscale images. When they
come back from the printer, they are often on the dark side. It has damaged my confidence but I am determined to get on top of this.
What I do is: The image is usally a colour (RGB or CMYK) jpg or tif. I
know there are different paths to get to grayscale and the best probably depends on the particular image. I should master the tried and true methood first before trying to become too tricky. So what I would do would be to save the image as a PSD file. I would Image>Mode>Grayscale. Generally, I would aim for the tones to fall in the 5% to 95% range. So I would open curves and bring the darkest point down to 95% from 100%. Then I would lift the lightest from 0% to 5%. I would create a bit of an S in the curve (very slightly leaving the curve nice and smooth) to create a bit of contrast. Usually I would not be happy with the contrast so I would use Image>Adjustments>Brightness/Contrast to increase contrast further (usually to somewhere between 8-15 depending on the image). I might fiddle a little more, e.g. sharpen slightly using Unsharp Mask or adjust the image further if there were skin tones, e.g. a portrait (I usually aim for skin tones to be something like 15% – depending again). When I finish adjusting the image, I have usually saved it as a TIFF. I might then do a check via the info palette to make sure all the important pixels fall within the 5% to 95% range. (When some images have come back dark, I have wondered whether I should not change my general guideline to 5% to 90% on the assumption that it is easier to darken a light image at a press check – which I have never done – stage).
One other thing I have done from time to time is to create the image as a
16 bit and done what adjustment I could there. My understanding is that this results in less data loss and gives an overall better result. I have saved back to an 8 bit image before placing the file in the InDesign CS document. While I think this is a good thing to do, I need to get a better command over the basics first.
I like a punchy grayscale image but I like detail in the shadows, at
least the important ones. I certainly don’t like the image being too dark; nor do I like it being washed out.
I would appreciate your help, suggestions feedback. I know this is pretty
basic but it is something I want to be able to get right (assuming the printer does the right thing) every time.
Thanks. I look forward to your comments and feedback.

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