I recently tried a plugin that corrects the color of the photo by looking at the white or grey areas of the photo and then proceeds from there to color correct. Is there a way to do this in PS7 as I am having good success with this plugin and was wondering if there is way to accomplish this in PS Thanks in advance for any advice Greg
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Go to image/ adjustments/ levels/and the choose an eyedropper tool from the bottom righthand side, I think this will do what you want. "Doc" wrote in message
I recently tried a plugin that corrects the color of the photo by looking
at
the white or grey areas of the photo and then proceeds from there to color correct. Is there a way to do this in PS7 as I am having good success
with
this plugin and was wondering if there is way to accomplish this in PS Thanks in advance for any advice Greg
I’m finding that the image in the view finder of my camera is fine, but the same image on my monitor needs a lot of adjustment to get it to look proper. Images almost always have a green cast to them, ie. browns start to look olive and purples start to look bright blue, etc. My photos generally don’t get printed, but go on the web for eBay etc. I’d really like to save editting time.
Camera is a Kodak DX 3215, Photoshop Elements 2 for Macintosh, Mac OS -X. I usually set the quality to ’email’ because I usually have to ‘save for the web’ anyway. I haven’t found anything in the forum. Could somebody please point me in the right direction. Thanks
Elements is a color managed program, and most other viewers aren’t. There are two common reasons why colors appear differently in Elements. One is the issue of monitor calibration, and the other is EXIF color information imbedded in an image file by a camera. I don’t know enough about your camera model to know if the EXIF info would be an issue or not. There is an "Ignore EXIF" plugin available. The monitor calibration would be done through your OS. If you haven’t calibrated the monitor, you might want to try that first.
To calibrate go to System Prefs>Displays>Color>Calibrate>Expert mode. Just follow the onscreen directions. It’s pretty easy and doesn’t take more than a few minutes. When you are done, name the profile and save it.
You can always change it back again if you don’t like it when you’re done. (BTW, if you have an LCD monitor, you should set the gamma up to around 2.2, despite the fact that it says "PC native." That’s the native gamma for LCD screens.
I’m new here and not at all an expert on computers. The problem I am having is that when I open up pics in Elements, either from file or my camera, They open with a pink tint. I can’t correct any defects in the photo’s as I can not see then in their natural state. Any help on what I am doing wrong, would be appreciated Paul
Paul, other than the Colour Management tips you’ll find scattered about the forum, you probably also need the "Ingore EXIF Colour Space Utilities" which can be found here:
Thanks Beth for the reminder to set my monitor in ‘System preferences’. Especially the comment about PC Native. Mac LCD monitors have a tendency to be brighter than PC monitors and that adjustment helps. Some playing around, checking my camera, and remembering picture taking knowledge from film cameras and I realized that my ‘green cast’ to my photos was largely due to flouresent lighting – even worse with digital than with film. Now its off to talk to a couple of proffesional phtogs. regarding my lighting. Vic.
Vic – depending on the options in the camera that you have, correctly setting the white balance should help with the green cast from fluoro lights – on my Canon the auto white balance does a less good job than setting it to fluoro or setting up a custom white balance. Of course where you have a mixed lighting situation (eg I have fluoro in my kitchen and incandescent in the family room that opens into it) it gets fairly hard to correct without adversely affecting the rest of the picture. Susan S.
Thanks Kyle. I downloaded EXIF and I and recalibrated my monitor. Between the two, I have gotten rid of the "Pink Picture Syndrome" I’m sure as I get deeper into this program, I will have more questions. It’s good to know that there are people in here that can help me.
Any time Paul. I’ve gotten a heap of help around here. I even keep a file of snippets when somebody gives instructions on something neat/useful/helpful. It’s already about 36KBytes long – as a flat text file!
I shoot people’s artwork for reproductions and portfolios. I include a color swatch and grey step in the image, so that I can color correct the scans in photoshop before printing. I set my levels eyedroppers on the grey step, but otherwise use my eye to get the color swatches right. Is there a way i can use the eyedroper technique, or something like it, to click on the color swatches to quickly achieve a more reliable color balance?
I have just taken some photos unfortunately under florescent lighting. I set the white balance and even used the flash for a couple of photos but alas I have some of that green tint in a couple of places.
I am using cs and wonder what is the best way to remove the green and make the picture as natural a possible?
we got a new d70 camer. it works great but our photog is still with it.
he took some good shots today but didnt know how to use it fully.
so now i need to do some color correction or whatever it is i can do. mainly some of the shots did not have a flash. they are not too darl; but what they really are is the wrong color temp. some are reddish or kind of orangy.
so can someone tell me if its possible to fix these kind of errors in photoshop CS. any help is appreciated. thanks.
we got a new d70 camer. it works great but our photog is still with it. he took some good shots today but didnt know how to use it fully. so now i need to do some color correction or whatever it is i can do.
mainly some of the shots did not have a flash. they are not too darl; but what they really are is the wrong color temp. some are reddish or kind of orangy.
so can someone tell me if its possible to fix these kind of errors in
photoshop CS. any help is appreciated. thanks. Set the color balance on the D70 to Auto.
Use the color balance tab in PS and work on reducing the red cast. Jim
Image>Adjust>Auto Color is probably a good starting point (also available through Levels adjustment layer>Options).
You can also make a new Levels adjustment layer and use the gray eyedropper to click on what is supposed to be a neutral color in the image.
What you want to do in the future though is to shoot RAW format. Photoshop can open these, and then you can apply any color temperature to the image with no loss.
Is there a universal color correction level that works well for most photos. I am color blind and hesitant about trying to correct color levels. Any ideas
On Fri, 22 Dec 2006 16:44:27 -0500, "Bob48" wrote:
Is there a universal color correction level that works well for most photos. I am color blind and hesitant about trying to correct color levels. Any ideas
No, I don’t think there is Bob. The reason is that there are too many variables for a one click, fix-all filter. I have many filters installed, and none of them do the job consistantly. I’ve had to use multiple filters, as well as manual adjustments on most pictures. I can understand the problems you have with being color blind. I was tested in high school for color blindness, and was found to not have it. I was told that 90% of all men are color blind to some extent, and being an electronics major, we were all tested, since color coding is an important part of electronics. Sorry that I can’t be more positive Bob, but I’m afraid that there’s nothing that can do what you want. Maybe someone else knows of software that can do this, but I haven’t found any yet.
Is there a universal color correction level that works well for most photos. I am color blind and hesitant about trying to correct color levels. Any ideas
Bob,
I am sure I read of someone on the Adobeforum who had a similar problem to the one you describe, but I have been unable to find the relevant post. I think it involved creating a custom palette but I could be wrong. I would post your question there. http://www.adobeforums.com and register with the Photoshop forum (free) It will be seen by everyone from Adobe programmers to German colour scientists.
Is there a universal color correction level that works well for most photos. I am color blind and hesitant about trying to correct color levels. Any ideas
Do a Google for ICorrect and Color Pilot.
I use ICorrect frequently if I have no-one to check my work.. (O;
…haven’t had time or need to investigate Color Pilot.
are you sure you want a plug in? this is one of photoshop’s main functions. there’s a slew of tools for this. start with the image adjustments menu and check out levels, curves, brightness/contrast, hue/saturation, etc. read the manual and play with each function. there’s even a couple of one click options in there "auto-color correction" being one…
One thing it gives me is the ability to find and pin the highlight, shadow, and a neutral spot. It is MUCH easier and faster than in Photoshop. Of course, you may not have a true neutral in your photo, so…
It also lets me pin a custom color to a spot in the picture. This allows me to use custom colors that I can correct to during the editing. I have a couple of cards with paint chips on them that the author scanned in and made pins for them. I take a picture at any scene with one or both of those cards in there. When I edit in Photoshop, I can pin those to the pictures of the paint chips to create a custom curve for that scene and light and WB setting. I save that curve and apply it to all the pictures taken in that scene. Just like that I get easy, fast, and accurate color correction.
Curvemeister also lets me correct colors in LAB mode, even though the picture is in RGB or some other mode. This gives me color correction abilities in LAB that you just can’t get in any other mode.
To me having to go back to using Photoshop’s native Curves and other color correction tools is a big pain. Most of them rely on my eye as the deciding sensor and that just isn’t very accurate.
I would NEVER edit photos in Photoshop without Curvemeister. I HIGHLY recommend it.
I have set 3 eyedropper points in CS3 for color correction and the results look good. How do I remove the 3 eye dropper points (1, 2, 3,) from the master photo. Thanks
I have set 3 eyedropper points in CS3 for color correction and the results look good. How do I remove the 3 eye dropper points (1, 2, 3,) from the master photo. Thanks
First of all: the points do not print.
To remove them: hold down Alt + Shift, hover above the points, and click the left mouse button. Greetings, Alex
I have set 3 eyedropper points in CS3 for color correction and the results look good. How do I remove the 3 eye dropper points (1, 2, 3,) from the master photo. Thanks
First of all: the points do not print.
To remove them: hold down Alt + Shift, hover above the points, and click the left mouse button. Greetings, Alex
I would start by going in to Image > Adjustments > Shadows and Highlights. I would click on the show more options check box. I would then dial down the Shadows sliders to 0 and set the highlights sliders to something like 30, 50 and 30. I would then do an auto color and then Edit > Fade and reduce the auto color by 50%. Finally I would go in to hue/Saturation under Image > Adjustments and up the master saturation to +20 and up the red saturation by +10. This will over saturate the basket ball in the image so I would then take the sponge tool set to desaturate and an amount of 50% and a small brush and reduce the saturation of the ball down until it looks more natural. Finally I would duplicat the image layer and change the one on top to multiply mode and opacity of 25%.
A lot of this you can do with adjustment layers if you wanted. But the above would be my quick and dirty method. Your milage and taste may very.
Now, I don’t know what you have already tried, and I certainly do not know what the colours in your image should be like, but I do know that the major problem is a very strong cyan cast present. Photoshop has a one click wonder that will cure that problem, and as is so often the case with PS, it is achieved by using the " wrong" tool.
Open your image, go image>adjustments>match colour.
Do not play with the colours………..simply put a check in the "neutralize" box………that may be all you need to do.
Yes there’s a Cyan cast, but therer’s also a Blue cast.
Add a Levels Adjustment Layer. In the Adjustment dialog, go to the Red channel, and drag the middle slider slightly to the left. Go to the Blue channel, and drag the middle slider a little further to the right.
Robert thank you so much for taking the time to explain this to me.I did what u said and it was much much better.I’m using this photo to learn with as well as trying to satisfy customer. Thanks again I will use this in the future!
John your 2cents worth means a lot to me.I’m playing around with your info at this time and it is working for this photo. Thanks for your time.I cant work on this as often as i like but this forum has helped me so much.
The Highlight/Shadow recommendation is a great start, but I would not avoid the shadow part of it. There is some exploitable shadow detail there to help the contrast. Make sure you dial the Color Correction aspect down, as the +20 default adds too much saturation.
After that use Curves to set reasonable values for known highlight, shadow and midtone points. This image has all three. The image will start coming into line very quickly. This is color correction 101 really.
To take it step further, convert a copy to Lab and do a Curves "a" and "b" channel move to get the fleshtones nice and rich, and while your at it, you might take advantage of Lab’s steeper gamma curve to pull a tad more shadow detail with H/S.
Convert back to RGB, drag on top of your original corrected RGB and decide how much of the Lab correction to blend in.