Lighten faces only

F
Posted By
Fruit2O
Jan 6, 2007
Views
3008
Replies
39
Status
Closed
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

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N
noone
Jan 7, 2007
In article ,
says…
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means you choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush, until the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt
MR
Mike Russell
Jan 7, 2007
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably start by doing it that way.

As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/
F
Fruit2O
Jan 7, 2007
On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 16:52:18 -0800, "Mike Russell" wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably start by doing it that way.

As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Mike, does that man I’d have to mask each individual face (I know it’s a stupid question – but I have to ask anyway)?
F
Fruit2O
Jan 7, 2007
On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 16:52:18 -0800, "Mike Russell" wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably start by doing it that way.

Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the quick mask – but that’s all.
As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Same here. If you could be more specific, I’ll learn something new. Thanks……
MR
Mike Russell
Jan 7, 2007
"Fruit2O" wrote in message

Mike said:
The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
start by doing it that way.

Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the quick mask – but that’s all.

Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn’t say it much better.

As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Same here. If you could be more specific, I’ll learn something new. Thanks……

If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use this method.

Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method) to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.

For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image: < http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1006&am p;message=21349443&changemode=1>

The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis’s Lab book. —
Mike Russell
www.curvemeister.com/forum/
F
Fruit2O
Jan 7, 2007
On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:39:05 -0800, "Mike Russell" wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message

Mike said:
The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
start by doing it that way.

Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the quick mask – but that’s all.

Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn’t say it much better.

Hunt?

As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Same here. If you could be more specific, I’ll learn something new. Thanks……

If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use this method.

Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method) to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.
For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image: < http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1006&am p;message=21349443&changemode=1>

The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis’s Lab book.
F
Fruit2O
Jan 7, 2007
On Sat, 6 Jan 2007 19:39:05 -0800, "Mike Russell" wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message

Mike said:
The standard way is a mask with an adjustment layer, and you should probably
start by doing it that way.

Mike, could you be a lot more specific? I know how to paint using the quick mask – but that’s all.

Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn’t say it much better.

OK, I Googled and found Gordon Hunt. How do I find the procedure for the faces? Thanks.
As an advanced technique, if the faces are brighter, or a different color than most of the rest of the image it may be faster and easier to dup the image to a new layer, adjust the faces ignoring the rest of the image, use the layer’s Blend If sliders set appropriately to change only the faces, and
use a layer mask to clean up any parts that are not caught by the Blend If sliders.

Same here. If you could be more specific, I’ll learn something new. Thanks……

If the faces are lighter than the rest of the image, or otherwise distinguished in the amount of red, green, or blue in them, then you can use this method.

Duplicate the image to a new layer, and use curves (or your favorite method) to make the faces lighter. Then double click on the layer in the layers palette, and fiddle with the Blend If sliders so that only the faces are changed. If there are any non-face areas you care about whose color is lightened, use a layer mask and paint those areas black to get rid of them.
For additional "blend if" leverage, convert the image to Lab mode. In Lab you can select more effectively based on the color of the object, apart from its lightness. Dpreveiw has a discussion with an example image: < http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1006&am p;message=21349443&changemode=1>

The ultimate source for this technique is in Dan Margulis’s Lab book.
D
Dave
Jan 7, 2007
On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 10:44:33 -0500, Fruit2O wrote:

"Mike Russell"
Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn’t say it much better.

then Fruit ask this stupid question
Hunt?
OK, I Googled and found Gordon Hunt. How do I find the procedure for the faces? Thanks.

I f you do not even look at the names of the people doing effort to answer you, go buy a book and don’t waste people like Mike and Hunt’s time

Dave
K
KatWoman
Jan 7, 2007
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
K
KatWoman
Jan 7, 2007
"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
F
Fruit2O
Jan 7, 2007
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.
MH
Mike Hyndman
Jan 8, 2007
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer to suit.

MH
F
Fruit2O
Jan 8, 2007
On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 18:17:39 +0200, Dave wrote:

On Sun, 07 Jan 2007 10:44:33 -0500, Fruit2O wrote:

"Mike Russell"
Actually, Hunt did a good job on this, and I couldn’t say it much better.

then Fruit ask this stupid question
Hunt?
OK, I Googled and found Gordon Hunt. How do I find the procedure for the faces? Thanks.

I f you do not even look at the names of the people doing effort to answer you, go buy a book and don’t waste people like Mike and Hunt’s time

1. I’m not trying to waste anybody’s time. What ‘name’ did I miss?
2. This forum is supposed to be for helping people (not criticize
them). I have a lot of books on PS CS2 – but can’t find what I’m looking for. I can get around a little – but often need help from the newsgroups.
3. It probably would have been just as easy for you to help me than it was to criticize me. I would say to you ‘put your efforts to more constructive use.’

Bob
Dave
J
jenelisepasceci
Jan 8, 2007
Fruit2O wrote:

1. I’m not trying to waste anybody’s time. What ‘name’ did I miss?

The name of the first person who answered your question in comp.graphics.apps.photoshop

Message-ID:

Peter
MH
Mike Hyndman
Jan 8, 2007
"Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer to suit.
Control should read Alt. ;(

MH
P
PacMan
Jan 9, 2007
On 2007-01-07 15:20:15 -0400, "KatWoman"
said:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer

Don’t ever use the dodge and burn tool. Never! it kills pixels just like the eraser tool does.
of course, if pixel information is not important to you ignore this and use it 🙂


Welcome to Papa Joe’s
AB
Arnor Baldvinsson
Jan 9, 2007
Hi Peter, et.al.,

The name of the first person who answered your question in comp.graphics.apps.photoshop

Problem is that googlegroups and news servers (nntp) are not always anywhere closely in sync. With nntp access it can take days for some postings to show up as the posts propagate from one nntp server to another – if they ever show up! Hunt’s message may never have shown up where Bob is reading this thread. On a photography forum that I check several times aday (alt.binaries.photos.original) there is a long list of original postings that never show up on my news server.


Arnor Baldvinsson
San Antonio, Texas
N
noone
Jan 9, 2007
In article ,
says…
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

What should have appeared, but probably didn’t, was the following:

"Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means you choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush, until the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt"

I also like Mike’s method #2, with the Dupe Layer (Ctrl-j) and the Blend If slider.

In Photoshop, there are many roads that lead to a common destination. Some offer advantages of speed, some ease of use, some just fit the way that person works. Often there are compromises, i.e. time to make a great Mask, vs. being able to get good results in a more quick-n-dirty fashion (but still with those "good results").

Do not know why my earlier post didn’t show up, but then news servers are not created equal.

Hunt
F
Fruit2O
Jan 9, 2007
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:46:24 -0000, "Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer to suit.

MH
Mike, this is beyond my skill level. Thanks.
F
Fruit2O
Jan 9, 2007
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 21:56:03 -0400, Papa Joe wrote:

On 2007-01-07 15:20:15 -0400, "KatWoman"
said:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer

Don’t ever use the dodge and burn tool. Never! it kills pixels just like the eraser tool does.
of course, if pixel information is not important to you ignore this and use it 🙂

Thanks – I kind of thought this was not the way to go.
F
Fruit2O
Jan 9, 2007
On 9 Jan 2007 17:53:03 GMT, (Hunt) wrote:

In article ,
says…
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

What should have appeared, but probably didn’t, was the following:
"Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means you choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush, until the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt"
This is sort of what I did: I used the quick mask to mask ALL the faces at once. Then, I use white paint to close in on just tthe faces. Then, inversed the selection and hid the ants. Then used the various adjustments to get the faces to where I wanted the (brightness, contrast, hue, etc.). I don’t know a thing about using levels and curves yet (wish I did).

I also like Mike’s method #2, with the Dupe Layer (Ctrl-j) and the Blend If slider.

I also wish I knew how to use the Blend tools – but that’s beyond my skill level right now.
In Photoshop, there are many roads that lead to a common destination. Some offer advantages of speed, some ease of use, some just fit the way that person works. Often there are compromises, i.e. time to make a great Mask, vs. being able to get good results in a more quick-n-dirty fashion (but still with those "good results").

Do not know why my earlier post didn’t show up, but then news servers are not created equal.

Hunt

Thank you for responding.
N
noone
Jan 10, 2007
In article ,
says…
On 9 Jan 2007 17:53:03 GMT, (Hunt) wrote:

In article ,
says…
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

What should have appeared, but probably didn’t, was the following:
"Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means
you
choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush,
until
the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt"
This is sort of what I did: I used the quick mask to mask ALL the faces at once. Then, I use white paint to close in on just tthe faces. Then, inversed the selection and hid the ants. Then used the various adjustments to get the faces to where I wanted the (brightness, contrast, hue, etc.). I don’t know a thing about using levels and curves yet (wish I did).

This would be a good place to play with them. Start with Levels, and play with the settings, on your Dupe Layer, or however you are handling the correction. Take a look at your results. Save_As and then do the same thing with Curves. Each has a place in the workflow. I find Levels a bit more intuitive, and Curves with much greater power.

I also like Mike’s method #2, with the Dupe Layer (Ctrl-j) and the Blend If slider.

I also wish I knew how to use the Blend tools – but that’s beyond my skill level right now.
In Photoshop, there are many roads that lead to a common destination. Some offer advantages of speed, some ease of use, some just fit the way that
person
works. Often there are compromises, i.e. time to make a great Mask, vs.
being
able to get good results in a more quick-n-dirty fashion (but still with
those
"good results").

Do not know why my earlier post didn’t show up, but then news servers are
not
created equal.

Hunt

Thank you for responding.

No problem. As you pointed out in an intermediate post – that what we are here for!

Good Photoshopping (yeah, I know, it’s not accepted as a verb yet, but just wait).

Hunt
F
Fruit2O
Jan 10, 2007
On 10 Jan 2007 00:45:59 GMT, (Hunt) wrote:

In article ,
says…
On 9 Jan 2007 17:53:03 GMT, (Hunt) wrote:

In article ,
says…
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

What should have appeared, but probably didn’t, was the following:
"Probably the best method would be to Select the face(s) by whatever means
you
choose, Lasso, Pen Tool (to Selection), etc., then Invert Selection, click Adjustment Layer (with the Selection Active to create a Layer Mask), and choose, say Levels, or Curves. Adjust the density to suit your tastes, and then make the Layer Mask active and paint with a very soft-edged brush,
until
the transition is suitable to your tastes. You can also use the Blur Tool on the Layer Mask edge to soften this.

Hunt"
This is sort of what I did: I used the quick mask to mask ALL the faces at once. Then, I use white paint to close in on just tthe faces. Then, inversed the selection and hid the ants. Then used the various adjustments to get the faces to where I wanted the (brightness, contrast, hue, etc.). I don’t know a thing about using levels and curves yet (wish I did).

This would be a good place to play with them. Start with Levels, and play with the settings, on your Dupe Layer, or however you are handling the correction. Take a look at your results. Save_As and then do the same thing with Curves. Each has a place in the workflow. I find Levels a bit more intuitive, and Curves with much greater power.

I also like Mike’s method #2, with the Dupe Layer (Ctrl-j) and the Blend If slider.

I also wish I knew how to use the Blend tools – but that’s beyond my skill level right now.
In Photoshop, there are many roads that lead to a common destination. Some offer advantages of speed, some ease of use, some just fit the way that
person
works. Often there are compromises, i.e. time to make a great Mask, vs.
being
able to get good results in a more quick-n-dirty fashion (but still with
those
"good results").

Do not know why my earlier post didn’t show up, but then news servers are
not
created equal.

Hunt

Thank you for responding.

No problem. As you pointed out in an intermediate post – that what we are here for!

Good Photoshopping (yeah, I know, it’s not accepted as a verb yet, but just wait).

Hunt

Thanks again – I will play around with the curves and levels. I just need a starting point so I know what I’m doing or attempting to accomplish. Oh, and I think ‘to Photoshop’ is now a verb.

Bob
P
PacMan
Jan 10, 2007
On 2007-01-06 19:53:23 -0400, Fruit2O said:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

FYI,
if you’re ever adjusting faces for newsprint at coarse screens, use a hard adjustement layer and drop the opacity to 30-50, you need to get rif of the midtones ( more contrast) or they will look very flat.


Welcome to Papa Joe’s
BH
Bill Hilton
Jan 10, 2007
Fruit2O wrote:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

One more quick and easy way to do this (posted earlier but it never appeared) …

With the file open do Layer – New – Layer and in the menu change ‘mode’ to ‘soft light’ and then select the box for ‘fill with
soft-light-neutral color (50% gray)’ and click ‘ok’.

Nothing happens except you have a neutral layer, which doesn’t affect the image in ‘soft light’ mode.

Now type ‘d’ to set the default foreground/background colors, select the Brush tool with a soft edged brush somewhat smaller than a face, with the ‘opacity’ set to about 10%.

Now if you paint on the mask with black it will darken the area painted and if you paint with white it will lighten it, which is what you want to do. So make white the foreground color and paint away on the faces. At low opacity you’ll need to make several strokes to get the effect you wish. If you make it too light just paint with black.

Probably a good idea to make a new layer for every couple of faces.

This is basically a better way to burn and dodge than the rather crude Burn/Dodge tool.

Bill
MH
Mike Hyndman
Jan 10, 2007
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:46:24 -0000, "Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control
key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped
layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image
you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer
to suit.

MH
Mike, this is beyond my skill level. Thanks.

If you want to learn to swim you have to get wet.;)

MH
K
KatWoman
Jan 10, 2007
"Mike Hyndman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:46:24 -0000, "Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control
key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped
layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image
you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer
to suit.

MH
Mike, this is beyond my skill level. Thanks.

If you want to learn to swim you have to get wet.;)

MH

that is why I posted QUICK AND DIRTY method
for noobs who do not know the GUI well and rarely know how to use masks

as for lost pixels who cares on a copy?? you care what the image looks like printed or on the web not the pixel contents
you want it to look good or be technically perfect??
K
KatWoman
Jan 10, 2007
"Bill Hilton" wrote in message
Fruit2O wrote:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

One more quick and easy way to do this (posted earlier but it never appeared) …

With the file open do Layer – New – Layer and in the menu change ‘mode’ to ‘soft light’ and then select the box for ‘fill with
soft-light-neutral color (50% gray)’ and click ‘ok’.

Nothing happens except you have a neutral layer, which doesn’t affect the image in ‘soft light’ mode.

Now type ‘d’ to set the default foreground/background colors, select the Brush tool with a soft edged brush somewhat smaller than a face, with the ‘opacity’ set to about 10%.

Now if you paint on the mask with black it will darken the area painted and if you paint with white it will lighten it, which is what you want to do. So make white the foreground color and paint away on the faces. At low opacity you’ll need to make several strokes to get the effect you wish. If you make it too light just paint with black.
Probably a good idea to make a new layer for every couple of faces.
This is basically a better way to burn and dodge than the rather crude Burn/Dodge tool.

Bill

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS
they have very sensitive settings if you bother to change from 50% defaults added to the fact you can affect only midtones highlights or shadows makes this tool even more versatile
and with no time limit and perfect control of areas you want to affect it is way superior to actual darkroom working of the dinosaur times

well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile
levels is easier than curves
but you will lose those oh so valuable pixels it you move the end ones anyway
MH
Mike Hyndman
Jan 10, 2007
"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Mike Hyndman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:46:24 -0000, "Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control
key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped
layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image
you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer
to suit.

MH
Mike, this is beyond my skill level. Thanks.

If you want to learn to swim you have to get wet.;)

MH

that is why I posted QUICK AND DIRTY method
for noobs who do not know the GUI well and rarely know how to use masks
as for lost pixels who cares on a copy?? you care what the image looks like printed or on the web not the pixel contents
you want it to look good or be technically perfect??

KW
Which provides the greater learning experience?
MH
K
KatWoman
Jan 10, 2007
"Mike Hyndman" wrote in message
"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Mike Hyndman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Mon, 8 Jan 2007 08:46:24 -0000, "Mike Hyndman" <tell me yours and I’ll send > wrote:

"Fruit2O" wrote in message
On Sun, 7 Jan 2007 14:20:15 -0500, "KatWoman"
wrote:

"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Fruit2O" wrote in message
I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

OK for quick and dirty I would do this

select DODGE tool
3-7% strength should do
midtones setting
large brush approx size of face -brush should have VERY soft edge click one or two times on each face

you may need burn on shadows to put back some dulled out eyes or lips
should not need to say but:
use "SAVE as"
or do this on a duplicate layer
Thank you. Now I need to choose between different techniques.

Bob,

If you would like to try another one 😉

Duplicate your layer and set the mode to screen.
Apply a layer mask via the icon at bottom of layers pallete with the control
key depressed (this will give you a hide all mask and you will see the duped
layer effect dissapear)
You then paint with white on the black mask to reveal the parts of the image
you want lightened.
If the effect is to bright, you then reduce the opacity of the screen layer
to suit.

MH
Mike, this is beyond my skill level. Thanks.

If you want to learn to swim you have to get wet.;)

MH

that is why I posted QUICK AND DIRTY method
for noobs who do not know the GUI well and rarely know how to use masks
as for lost pixels who cares on a copy?? you care what the image looks like printed or on the web not the pixel contents
you want it to look good or be technically perfect??

KW
Which provides the greater learning experience?
MH
either one if the OP didn’t know it before then it’s new info for him he would learn a new technique or tools both ways

all this pixel saving means squat to amateurs who are going to print a 4×6 at the CVS

not saying that was his goal
I do not know
just telling him how to fix it EASILY
you all gave very complex instructions
or he would have "got it" already
had he done my way it would be finished without all the posting of return questions
as he did not opt to try mine we cannot compare
MH
Mike Hyndman
Jan 10, 2007
"KatWoman" wrote in message
"Bill Hilton" wrote in message
Fruit2O wrote:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

One more quick and easy way to do this (posted earlier but it never appeared) …

With the file open do Layer – New – Layer and in the menu change ‘mode’ to ‘soft light’ and then select the box for ‘fill with
soft-light-neutral color (50% gray)’ and click ‘ok’.

Nothing happens except you have a neutral layer, which doesn’t affect the image in ‘soft light’ mode.

Now type ‘d’ to set the default foreground/background colors, select the Brush tool with a soft edged brush somewhat smaller than a face, with the ‘opacity’ set to about 10%.

Now if you paint on the mask with black it will darken the area painted and if you paint with white it will lighten it, which is what you want to do. So make white the foreground color and paint away on the faces. At low opacity you’ll need to make several strokes to get the effect you wish. If you make it too light just paint with black.
Probably a good idea to make a new layer for every couple of faces.
This is basically a better way to burn and dodge than the rather crude Burn/Dodge tool.

Bill

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS
they have very sensitive settings if you bother to change from 50% defaults
added to the fact you can affect only midtones highlights or shadows makes this tool even more versatile
and with no time limit and perfect control of areas you want to affect it is way superior to actual darkroom working of the dinosaur times
well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile
levels is easier than curves

but you will lose those oh so valuable pixels it you move the end ones anyway
K,
Not if you use Adjustment layers 😉
BTW, your reply to me was removed from the server at my end.

Regards

Mike H
BH
Bill Hilton
Jan 10, 2007
KatWoman wrote:

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

Well, I had a black-white darkroom for years and studied printing with Bruce Barnbaum, so dunno what to make of that little voice in your head which "tells" you such things 🙂 It’s lying to you …

it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS

For most operations there are simple ways to do it, like Burn/Dodge (or your beloved Levels), and more subtle ones (like the ‘soft light’ blend filled with neutral gray) that work better and give you more control if you take a few moments to learn them. I picked this trick up from the book "Photoshop Artistry" by Barry Haynes and it’s clearly better than using B/D, and intuitively simple once you try it.

well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile

I’m still learning but I guess I’ve already learned a little since I’m an "Adobe Certified Expert" in Photoshop. You on the other hand seem like a clueless beginner with a very bad attitude and an inferiority complex.

Bill
P
PacMan
Jan 11, 2007
On 2007-01-10 16:53:00 -0400, "KatWoman"
said:

"Bill Hilton" wrote in message
Fruit2O wrote:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

One more quick and easy way to do this (posted earlier but it never appeared) …

With the file open do Layer – New – Layer and in the menu change ‘mode’ to ‘soft light’ and then select the box for ‘fill with
soft-light-neutral color (50% gray)’ and click ‘ok’.

Nothing happens except you have a neutral layer, which doesn’t affect the image in ‘soft light’ mode.

Now type ‘d’ to set the default foreground/background colors, select the Brush tool with a soft edged brush somewhat smaller than a face, with the ‘opacity’ set to about 10%.

Now if you paint on the mask with black it will darken the area painted and if you paint with white it will lighten it, which is what you want to do. So make white the foreground color and paint away on the faces. At low opacity you’ll need to make several strokes to get the effect you wish. If you make it too light just paint with black.
Probably a good idea to make a new layer for every couple of faces.
This is basically a better way to burn and dodge than the rather crude Burn/Dodge tool.

Bill

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS
they have very sensitive settings if you bother to change from 50% defaults added to the fact you can affect only midtones highlights or shadows makes this tool even more versatile
and with no time limit and perfect control of areas you want to affect it is way superior to actual darkroom working of the dinosaur times
well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile
levels is easier than curves
but you will lose those oh so valuable pixels it you move the end ones anyway

One thing that’s very different with photoshop from the dark room is digital information.
The more you have the better for output devices but espescially for editing in shop. There are two tools that are shunned by the professional photoshop experts, the eraser and the dodge and burn. It’s not because they don’t work well but it’s what they actually do… they erase information. It’s never comes back. You burn out some pixels around the eyes… it’s gone. It can’t be brought back, it can’t be adjusted, It’s just gone!

Novice and even intermediate users are pixel killers, they dont understand why it’s bad to kill pixels,
it’s easier to use the dodge and burn, and it takes a lot of figuring out why you shouldn’t. But when you finally do figure it out and start using photoshop in a non-destructive manner, then you’ll be on your way to really being a pro at photoshop and it’s core essence.

We’re alaways learning photoshop and we need to help each other out with knowlegde,
I’ll given you some advice about these "destructive tools", now it’s up to you to bother to find out why.

GL

Welcome to Papa Joe’s
K
KatWoman
Jan 11, 2007
"Bill Hilton" wrote in message
KatWoman wrote:

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

Well, I had a black-white darkroom for years and studied printing with Bruce Barnbaum, so dunno what to make of that little voice in your head which "tells" you such things 🙂 It’s lying to you …
it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS

For most operations there are simple ways to do it, like Burn/Dodge (or your beloved Levels), and more subtle ones (like the ‘soft light’ blend filled with neutral gray) that work better and give you more control if you take a few moments to learn them. I picked this trick up from the book "Photoshop Artistry" by Barry Haynes and it’s clearly better than using B/D, and intuitively simple once you try it.

well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile

I’m still learning but I guess I’ve already learned a little since I’m an "Adobe Certified Expert" in Photoshop. You on the other hand seem like a clueless beginner with a very bad attitude and an inferiority complex.

Bill

not a beginner, and never claimed expert however I do make a living from retouching pictures
and unlike yourself do not need to brag my credentials, this is FREE advice, not a moderated or pro discussion group

I understood the OP’s first responder HUNT who told him the PROPER technique the rest of you just repeated similar ideas
which he did not GET how to do, he did not understand levels, masks or curves or blend modes,
so after suffering his confusion in several posts I suggested my technique PROMINENTLY LABELED:::: QUICK AND DIRTY (only people who actually have sex know what that means so I see why you are confused) AND unlike the OP, I DO know the tools and techniques to do it RIGHT

bad attitude yes I do not suffer humorless arrogant fools well…….who attack me for giving my time for free to help a person fix a picture. LICK IT Mr. Perfect
D
Dave
Jan 11, 2007
On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 13:43:18 -0500, "KatWoman" wrote:

"Bill Hilton"
KatWoman wrote:


the rest of you just repeated similar ideas
which he did not GET how to do, he did not understand levels, masks or curves or blend modes,
so after suffering his confusion in several posts I suggested my technique PROMINENTLY LABELED:::: QUICK AND DIRTY (only people who actually have sex know what that means so I see why you are confused)

LICK IT Mr. Perfect

KatWoman! You’ll scratch your keyboard with that nails…!

More serious
All what’s said make no dif to the fact that you are one of the most valuable contributors on this ng. And that a lot of us (including this South African) learned a lot from you.
Keep on contributing and DO NOT FORGET your blood pressure pills! :-)))
Dave
G
granny
Jan 12, 2007
Dang, Y’all make nervous to offer a simplistic and what I feel is the easiest way to lighten faces.. (I use PS 7)

Use the "History Brush Tool" with a soft brush size just smaller than the face with
a Mode setting at the top set to "Screen" and Opacity and flow set to Around "40%" and the air brush turned off to prevent over-spray… hold the button on your mouse down till you are finished with one face to prevent splotchyness… if it is to light then undo and lower the opacity and/or the flow numbers.. My personal preferences is to make small improvements or changes at a time and gradually work till I think it is right… if it is still not light enough then re-apply… The PROS will want this added also, this should be done on a copied layer and "saved as" when finished, with an amended file name.. This same method can be applied to darken a portion of the image also.. except use "Multiply" instead of "Screen" I am a Newbie and an Amateur.. and use the dodge and burn tools also.. but for this application, without knowing the tools well, a person will probably get very washed out results or at the least a muddy/bland result because on each face there are usually highlights, midtones and shadows.. each of which may need to be manipulated…

Please no flames,… LUV YOU "Kat", "Mike", "Bill", "Dave", "Joe"..

I just hope the OP learns as much as I have from all of you.. —
"Granny"
Old N Slow N Prefer Quick N Easy
D
Dave
Jan 13, 2007
On Thu, 11 Jan 2007 18:34:09 -0600, "granny"
wrote:

Dang, Y’all make nervous to offer a simplistic and what I feel is the easiest way to lighten faces.. (I use PS 7)

Use the "History Brush Tool" with a soft brush size just smaller than the face with
a Mode setting at the top set to "Screen" and Opacity and flow set to Around "40%" and the air brush turned off to prevent over-spray… hold the button on your mouse down till you are finished with one face to prevent splotchyness… if it is to light then undo and lower the opacity and/or the flow numbers.. My personal preferences is to make small improvements or changes at a time and gradually work till I think it is right… if it is still not light enough then re-apply… The PROS will want this added also, this should be done on a copied layer and "saved as" when finished, with an amended file name.. This same method can be applied to darken a portion of the image also.. except use "Multiply" instead of "Screen" I am a Newbie and an Amateur.. and use the dodge and burn tools also.. but for this application, without knowing the tools well, a person will probably get very washed out results or at the least a muddy/bland result because on each face there are usually highlights, midtones and shadows.. each of which may need to be manipulated…

Please no flames,… LUV YOU "Kat", "Mike", "Bill", "Dave", "Joe"..

I just hope the OP learns as much as I have from all of you..

LOL, hi Granny:-) Somehow I’ve got the feeling that this ‘Newbie and an Amateur’ may be the same Granny I
know from forums like Corel Painter’s:-)
Someone from who I learned quite a few things

If not, your answer here prove you not to be
a amateur at all:-)

Dave
F
Fruit2O
Jan 16, 2007
On 10 Jan 2007 14:08:10 -0800, "Bill Hilton"
wrote:

KatWoman wrote:

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

Well, I had a black-white darkroom for years and studied printing with Bruce Barnbaum, so dunno what to make of that little voice in your head which "tells" you such things 🙂 It’s lying to you …
it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS

For most operations there are simple ways to do it, like Burn/Dodge (or your beloved Levels), and more subtle ones (like the ‘soft light’ blend filled with neutral gray) that work better and give you more control if you take a few moments to learn them. I picked this trick up from the book "Photoshop Artistry" by Barry Haynes and it’s clearly better than using B/D, and intuitively simple once you try it.

well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile

I’m still learning but I guess I’ve already learned a little since I’m an "Adobe Certified Expert" in Photoshop. You on the other hand seem like a clueless beginner with a very bad attitude and an inferiority complex.

Bill

I am still ill – so haven’t had the time to catch up on your responses – but thank you ALL. I realize that it’s easy to get caught up in bickering about whose method is better, but it really doesn’t matter. There are many ways to do a lot of things with PS and all suggestions are welcome. I sure hate to see the bickering take up space in the posts. I, too, used to have a B&W darkroom – but I find that PS provides the user with NEW techniques as technology changes.
F
Fruit2O
Jan 16, 2007
On Wed, 10 Jan 2007 21:57:58 -0400, Papa Joe
wrote:

On 2007-01-10 16:53:00 -0400, "KatWoman"
said:

"Bill Hilton" wrote in message
Fruit2O wrote:

I have a group shot for which I want to lighten the faces only Is there a method?.

One more quick and easy way to do this (posted earlier but it never appeared) …

With the file open do Layer – New – Layer and in the menu change ‘mode’ to ‘soft light’ and then select the box for ‘fill with
soft-light-neutral color (50% gray)’ and click ‘ok’.

Nothing happens except you have a neutral layer, which doesn’t affect the image in ‘soft light’ mode.

Now type ‘d’ to set the default foreground/background colors, select the Brush tool with a soft edged brush somewhat smaller than a face, with the ‘opacity’ set to about 10%.

Now if you paint on the mask with black it will darken the area painted and if you paint with white it will lighten it, which is what you want to do. So make white the foreground color and paint away on the faces. At low opacity you’ll need to make several strokes to get the effect you wish. If you make it too light just paint with black.
Probably a good idea to make a new layer for every couple of faces.
This is basically a better way to burn and dodge than the rather crude Burn/Dodge tool.

Bill

what you call "crudeness" of burn/dodge tools tells me you never worked in the limitations of a real wet darkroom
where you had little sticks and paper wands and had to use them quickly before the print time was done

it also tells me you do not know how to use those tools properly and subtlety in PS
they have very sensitive settings if you bother to change from 50% defaults added to the fact you can affect only midtones highlights or shadows makes this tool even more versatile
and with no time limit and perfect control of areas you want to affect it is way superior to actual darkroom working of the dinosaur times
well keep trying the hard way
you will learn stuff even if it takes awhile
levels is easier than curves
but you will lose those oh so valuable pixels it you move the end ones anyway

One thing that’s very different with photoshop from the dark room is digital information.
The more you have the better for output devices but espescially for editing in shop. There are two tools that are shunned by the professional photoshop experts, the eraser and the dodge and burn. It’s not because they don’t work well but it’s what they actually do… they erase information. It’s never comes back. You burn out some pixels around the eyes… it’s gone. It can’t be brought back, it can’t be adjusted, It’s just gone!

Novice and even intermediate users are pixel killers, they dont understand why it’s bad to kill pixels,
it’s easier to use the dodge and burn, and it takes a lot of figuring out why you shouldn’t. But when you finally do figure it out and start using photoshop in a non-destructive manner, then you’ll be on your way to really being a pro at photoshop and it’s core essence.
We’re alaways learning photoshop and we need to help each other out with knowlegde,
I’ll given you some advice about these "destructive tools", now it’s up to you to bother to find out why.

GL

Welcome to Papa Joe’s

Right on!!!

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