Business card template

Stephan wrote:

"RicSeyler" wrote in message

Stephan wrote:

"-xiray-" wrote in message

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 12:16:08 -0600, RicSeyler
wrote:

🙂
Yea you can’t print the card outlines on the sheet.
You will end up with partial lines on the cards.

Or I guess you could take the lots of extra time to
then trim each stack of cards again to get rid of the line remnants.

But I’ve always wondered, with as cheap as printing business cards can be, why would anyone go through the trouble doing it themselves.

Don’t know… maybe so your card doesn’t look like everybody else’s? If designing your card and placing a bunch of them on a sheet is too much trouble I wonder what you do with Photoshop in general.

Have you ever tried to print 500 buscrds on an inkjet??? I have many buscrd customers who have tried. 🙂 hehe

Of course not! There is Kinko’s for that.
Who would want to hand out inkjet printed cards?

Stephan

KINKOS!!! Bite your tongue! That’s like telling your neighborhood grocery, hey I like that new WallMart. HAHAHAHA

—
Ric Seyler

—

I use PhotoShop for photowork and more logo work than I used to. Then CorelDraw for Logo work and the majority of my spot color layout (because of the ease of making traps with overprints for fill and stroke, plus the separations print preview).
Then PageMaker for bigger layout work with text columns and leaders etc.

Most of my stuff comes out of Corel or PageMaker for the presses. And I generally use ESP for the inter-program transfers because it retains the spot colors and trapping. Although I have been messing with PDF’s. And started doing PDF’s out of PageMaker to bring complex text formatting into PS and Corel. Instead making all projects with complex text
end up in PageMaker.

-xiray- wrote:

On Wed, 17 Mar 2004 21:15:24 GMT, "Stephan"
wrote:

Ok then explain to me in Latin why preparing a business card in PS and giving it to the printer with the fonts attached will produce unprofessional results.
I want to know from an enlightened master why the cards I had printed for me and for clients so far are horrible and why my clients are so stupid they even paid for them and thanked me.

Stephan

Stephan:

PLEASE! Read what I (and others) actually said. It is possible to use PS but we’ve just pointed out that there are better ways. I NEVER said that the result would be unprofessional, just that the method is not the best.

There is a reason that Adobe makes different applications that work together (Photoshop, InDesign, Illustrator, and Acrobat).
Why are you so evangelical about PS?

—
Ric Seyler

—

You are wise to use CorelDRAW, for sensible reasons which are obvious to anyone who uses and abuses it daily. It’s power is unreal. If I had to work with Illus. all day, I’d be completely bald and need to have a psychiatrist on retainer.

JD

I use PhotoShop for photowork and more logo work than I used to. Then

CorelDraw for Logo work and the majority of my spot color layout (because of the ease of making traps with overprints for fill >and stroke, plus the separations print preview). Then PageMaker for bigger layout work with text columns and leaders etc.

Most of my stuff comes out of Corel or PageMaker for the presses.

It’s just that I learned to use Corel early on. It just comes natural to me, like PageMaker. I know PageMaker inside and out, (for my purposes) I don’t even have to think using it. I don’t take to "odd" ways of doing things very easily. 🙂
Illustrator was just frustrating to me. And don’t get me started on Publisher,
how in the hell do people typeset with that?!?. Everything seems to be completely
different than any other layout program I’ve used. (PageMaker it ain’t) Of course
I’m not very keen on going through the pains of learning Publisher in the first place. HAHAHAHAHA

Jeff H. wrote:

You are wise to use CorelDRAW, for sensible reasons which are obvious to anyone who uses and abuses it daily. It’s power is unreal. If I had to work with Illus. all day, I’d be completely bald and need to have a psychiatrist on retainer.

JD

I use PhotoShop for photowork and more logo work than I used to. Then

CorelDraw for Logo work and the majority of my spot color layout (because of the ease of making traps with overprints for fill >and stroke, plus the separations print preview). Then PageMaker for bigger layout work with text columns and leaders etc.

Most of my stuff comes out of Corel or PageMaker for the presses.

—
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove -SPAM- from email address
————————————–
"Homer no function beer well without."
– H.J. Simpson

—

Stephan wrote:

"howldog" wrote in message

<snip>

You guys need to think out of the box sometimes.

<snip>

to come back to business cards like the guys at the print shop when I asked them to print my card on transparent plastic sheets used to cover documents: No sir, we can’t print on that… Ok I”ll run one to show you (because I want to get you off my back). Minutes later the whole shop is taking turns holding the sheet in the light admiring my card!

Ummmmmm……..

#1) You CAN’T run transparent sheets through a decent press, at least any that I know of besides something like the old ABD 360’s etc… without bodging the jam sensors.
My presses have optical sensors for jammed or dropped sheets. Try and run a transparent sheet
through them and they will kick off impression after the first sheet goes through.

#2) You can’t offset print on plastics without very specialized inks (i.e. VanSon TuffTex)
and you need infrared dryers on the delivery end to cure the ink on plastic.

#3) You can’t hold a decent dot on plastic with standard offset.

#4) Trying to get consistent ink density on plastic on a conventional press with a conventional
water system is a nightmare. The water system/pressman is constantly fighting between toning from not
enough water, to washing out the color from no paper to absorb the excess water from the plate/blanket.
My ABD 9850 has a Dalghren continuous water system (hot rod water system) and I won’t touch plastic.
Been there and tried that.

#5) With no infrared dryers on the delivery end of the press, every sheet that hit the pile
would smear badly and offset, even upping the powder (if equipped) to the max.
Even TuffTex will smear without IR…

#6) The pressman would have to be "practiced" on specifically plastic to overcome the water
balance problems I stated earlier, and you mentioned that the shop didn’t do it. Plus bodging
the jam sensors.

So I’m just a little suspect you walked into a printshop and said, "let me show you"
and bang you had beautiful or even halfway decent print on clear plastic from their
current production setup. FWIW

Stephan

—
Ric Seyler
Seyler Design & Printing

Stephan wrote:

<snip>

to
come back to business cards like the guys at the print shop when I asked them to print my card on transparent plastic sheets used to cover documents: No sir, we can’t print on that… Ok I”ll run one to show you (because I want to get you off my back). Minutes later the whole shop is taking turns holding the sheet in the light admiring my card!
But as Branko says, I need vacations, or as Jeff says, I must be doing drugs and am in need for assistance.

Stephan

Ummmmmm……..

#1) You CAN’T run transparent sheets through a decent press, at least any that I know of besides something like the old ABD 360’s etc… without bodging the jam sensors.
My presses have optical sensors for jammed or dropped sheets. Try and run a transparent sheet
through them and they will kick off impression after the first sheet goes through.

#2) You can’t offset print on plastics without very specialized inks (i.e. VanSon TuffTex)
and you need infrared dryers on the delivery end to cure the ink on plastic. And if the
shop said "can’t print on that" so I don’t see ANY reason for them to have TuffTex on hand,
especially since TuffTex has a short shelf life and is expensive and generally has to be
special ordered becuase of the short shelf life….

#3) You can’t hold a decent dot on plastic with standard offset.

#4) Trying to get consistent ink density on plastic on a conventional press with a conventional
water system is a nightmare. The water system/pressman is constantly fighting between toning from not
enough water, to washing out the color from no paper to absorb the excess water from the plate/blanket.
My ABD 9850 has a Dalghren continuous water system (hot rod water system) and I won’t touch plastic.
Been there and tried that.

#5) With no infrared dryers on the delivery end of the press, every sheet that hit the pile
would smear badly and offset, even upping the powder (if equipped) to the max.
Even TuffTex will smear without IR…

#6) The pressman would have to be "practiced" on specifically plastic to overcome the water
balance problems I stated earlier, and you mentioned that the shop didn’t do it. Plus bodging
the jam sensors.

So I’m just a little suspect you walked into a printshop and said, "let me show you"
and bang you had beautiful or even halfway decent print on clear plastic from their
current production setup. FWIW

—
Ric Seyler
Online Racing: RicSeyler
GPL Handicap 6.35

http://www.pcola.gulf.net/~ricseyler
remove –SPAM- from email address
————————————–
"Homer no function beer well without."
– H.J. Simpson

Stephan wrote:

<snip>

to
come back to business cards like the guys at the print shop when I asked them to print my card on transparent plastic sheets used to cover documents:
No sir, we can’t print on that… Ok I”ll run one to show you (because I want to get you off my back). Minutes later the whole shop is taking turns
holding the sheet in the light admiring my card!

Stephan

Ummmmmm……..

#1) You CAN’T run transparent sheets through a decent press, at least any that I know of besides something like the old ABD 360’s etc… without bodging the jam sensors.
My presses have optical sensors for jammed or dropped sheets. Try and run a transparent sheet
through them and they will kick off impression after the first sheet goes through.

#2) You can’t offset print on plastics without very specialized inks (i.e. VanSon TuffTex)
and you need infrared dryers on the delivery end to cure the ink on plastic. And if the
shop said "can’t print on that" so I don’t see ANY reason for them to have TuffTex on hand,
especially since TuffTex has a short shelf life and is expensive and generally has to be
special ordered becuase of the short shelf life….

#3) You can’t hold a decent dot on plastic with standard offset.

#4) Trying to get consistent ink density on plastic on a conventional press with a conventional
water system is a nightmare. The water system/pressman is constantly fighting between toning from not
enough water, to washing out the color from no paper to absorb the excess water from the plate/blanket.
My ABD 9850 has a Dalghren continuous water system (hot rod water system) and I won’t touch plastic.
Been there and tried that.

#5) With no infrared dryers on the delivery end of the press, every sheet that hit the pile
would smear badly and offset, even upping the powder (if equipped) to the max.
Even TuffTex will smear without IR…

#6) The pressman would have to be "practiced" on specifically plastic to overcome the water
balance problems I stated earlier, and you mentioned that the shop didn’t do it. Plus bodging
the jam sensors.

So I’m just a little suspect you walked into a printshop and said, "let me show you"
and bang you had beautiful or even halfway decent print on clear plastic from their
current production setup. FWIW

—
Ric Seyler
Seyler Design & Printing